wht97ws6ta

Just figured I would post my experience with fitting the canton 15-246T road race pans for the 3rd gens in a 4th Gen F body.... in my case my 97 trans am. I really liked this pan design and pretty much got it at a steal so I did what it took to make it happen. The interference points are the starter because of the full length recovery pouch. You can opt to buy a offset mini starter but the stock starter needed very little to clear so I just heated the pan with a map gas torch and just worked it in with a hammer. I did the same up front to clear the rack. If you measure 3 3/4 inches back from the front seal center point and move the pan in a half inch or so all the way across it should clear. I know this isn't exactly the prettiest or most professional way of getting it in there but its pretty simple and you can't see it from the top anyways. I know the 244 T is designed for these cars but correct me if I'm wrong they don't have a recovery pouch on the passenger side. As far putting the pan on in the car... my trans is out for a rebuild so trans removal is a must. I had to take the motor mounts loose and jack the motor up. You have to lay the oil pump in the sump and bolt it up when you get the pan up and almost in place. Its tedious but doable for you diy guys. I wouldnt recommend it without a lift.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

There is not a lot of love for the Canton here. The 242T is the pan for 4th gen. f-bodys.

wht97ws6ta

Yea that's right its the 242t. I wouldn't kick a dead mule in the rear for that pan. 246t is a far superior pan as far as oil control goes. The 246t would prolly top the 242t by a good 25 HP on the dyno.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

25hp? How do you figure..?

wht97ws6ta

Haha I figured that was coming. I've seen it first hand with similar pan designs on the engine dyno. Did a pan swap on a 12:1 355 with double hump heads a solid flat tappet cam nothing special just a cheap bracket motor. Had a moroso 6 at pan no tray just the cheapest moroso pan on it. Swapped it for a moroso drag race pan (can't recall the pn but I wanna say 21017). That pan has a nice windage tray and a recovery pouch down the right side. All crap aside it went from making 438 HP at 6400 to 476 HP at 6700. Car went from 6.90s to 6.70s at the race track. Once at the track we could drop a quart of oil out down to 5 qts total and the car would drop another tenth. Oil control is way to often overlooked. When your leaving the line hard all that oil climbs the back of the pan and goes straight to the rotating assm. Now it has to wade thru the oil all the way down the 1/8 mile if your car will accelerate fast enough. That's why he would drop a tenth when he dropped a qt of oil.

wht97ws6ta

To finish up on the last reply where I run out of space... The Kickout or recovery pouch what every you like to call it is responsible for a good bit of the hp gains. It gives the oil somewhere to go as its slung off the rotating assm. rather than hitting the side of the pan thats close enough that the oil splashes back on the rotating assm. On the pans that are designed similar to stock pan i can drop a quart out and usually see atleast 10 hp so long as i dont run into cavitation in the upper rpms. Hard launches alot of times dont allow it at the race track with a stock capacity pan though. In some cases with motors that have bad windage issues i have to add a qt to help keep it alive and the issue only gets worse at the track. Oil pan design is way to often overlooked when its really one of the cheapest gains especially for the cars that are pretty fast at the track. It makes good sense as to why the pro mods and high end drag cars even to nascars run dry sump oiling on them. It would be pretty hard to control the oil in a wet sump in those conditions.