Best Plugs For My App?
#3
I've the same heads.
They call for a gasket-seat plug, not tapered like factory. 14mm thread, 3/4" reach (which is longer than stock) -- you should double-check for any clearance problems, just to be certain.
As SNM said, go with a non-projected tip plug. Don't be afraid to tighten up the gaps (0.025"~0.030") -- this will help prevent "blowing out the spark." Don't use platinum plugs. You'll just have to start with a plug several heat ranges colder than stock, and work your way up from there based on how they look.
Seems most guys recommend NGK, but I've always had better luck with regular Autolite copper plugs on my car. You'll be changing them more frequently with forced induction anyway. I'd hesitate to recommend the plug I'm using right now though -- it's a full-length insulator, so it's a real pain to replace them with my headers. I literally have to unbolt my headers to change plugs (even after chopping and moving a header primary).
I also strongly recommend using fiberglass heat boots / heat protection on your spark plug wires. Exhaust runs hot on a boosted car -- melted the snot out of my first set. I currently use Accel wires with the ceramic boots -- downside is that the boots don't flex at all, compounding the clearance issues, but they can take the heat. I also wrapped them in heat wrap inside of fiberglass boots to protect the wire.
I should probably stop typing now -- didn't intend to write a novel about something fairly simple.
They call for a gasket-seat plug, not tapered like factory. 14mm thread, 3/4" reach (which is longer than stock) -- you should double-check for any clearance problems, just to be certain.
As SNM said, go with a non-projected tip plug. Don't be afraid to tighten up the gaps (0.025"~0.030") -- this will help prevent "blowing out the spark." Don't use platinum plugs. You'll just have to start with a plug several heat ranges colder than stock, and work your way up from there based on how they look.
Seems most guys recommend NGK, but I've always had better luck with regular Autolite copper plugs on my car. You'll be changing them more frequently with forced induction anyway. I'd hesitate to recommend the plug I'm using right now though -- it's a full-length insulator, so it's a real pain to replace them with my headers. I literally have to unbolt my headers to change plugs (even after chopping and moving a header primary).
I also strongly recommend using fiberglass heat boots / heat protection on your spark plug wires. Exhaust runs hot on a boosted car -- melted the snot out of my first set. I currently use Accel wires with the ceramic boots -- downside is that the boots don't flex at all, compounding the clearance issues, but they can take the heat. I also wrapped them in heat wrap inside of fiberglass boots to protect the wire.
I should probably stop typing now -- didn't intend to write a novel about something fairly simple.