LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 *Bent Crank Snout*

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Old 05-31-2014, 04:48 PM
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Excessive thrust in the crank due to a worn thrust bering could cause a crank to walk. Good luck. Eric L
Old 05-31-2014, 06:11 PM
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Thanks eric. long time no talk man. It sucks I mean im still in a great deal even if I need to buy a 300$ motor and put it in. Was just hoping to get lucky
Old 05-31-2014, 11:25 PM
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An idea this may be wrong.
Do you know of the hub was pulled?
When I got my last LT1, people said the the balancer was bad as it wobbled. Just for kicks I checked the bolt for the hub. It was too long, and the hub was not seated correctly but the balancer was fine.
Old 06-01-2014, 08:52 AM
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I'm having trouble installing my crank hub right now. I'm putting a new powerbond hub on my new forged Lunati crank, and after it got a short way on the crank it wouldn't move any further. I even snapped an ARP stud that I was using to pull it on. I was able to wiggle the hub off by hand and discovered it wasn't going on straight and had distorted the inside of the hub. I wonder if the OP's hub could have been somewhat crooked when it was installed.

That being said, any suggestions on how to make sure it goes on straight? I ordered some B7 threaded rod for my second attempt.
Old 06-01-2014, 12:51 PM
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Thats a possibility. He seemed like a real weiner when it came to mechanics.

I am not sure man i have been out of LT1s for a coupke years and getting back into it and remember all the littletips and tricks and **** to do things
Old 06-01-2014, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro_freak
I'm having trouble installing my crank hub right now.

I even snapped an ARP stud that I was using to pull it on.

any suggestions on how to make sure it goes on straight? I ordered some B7 threaded rod for my second attempt.
you dodged a bullet by trying to draw in the hub using the crank bolt...assuming you have not stripped/distorted the threads already.

Using the homemade versions of a "install" tool....suggest you get some grade 8 washers and a bearing to sandwich between them and a grade 8 nut to install it. Ideally using the Kent Moore tool if you can find one. They are high $ but very "plug & play" to install/remove hub
Old 06-01-2014, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro_freak
I'm having trouble installing my crank hub right now. I'm putting a new powerbond hub on my new forged Lunati crank, and after it got a short way on the crank it wouldn't move any further. I even snapped an ARP stud that I was using to pull it on. I was able to wiggle the hub off by hand and discovered it wasn't going on straight and had distorted the inside of the hub. I wonder if the OP's hub could have been somewhat crooked when it was installed.

That being said, any suggestions on how to make sure it goes on straight? I ordered some B7 threaded rod for my second attempt.
Since you have aftermarket parts I would measure the crank snout and ID of the hub to make sure there isn't an excessive amount of interference fit. Heating the hub in a oven to 200 deg or so will help it go on easier. Look up the thread on the $12 hub installer tool.
Old 06-01-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slo_camaro
...... what would cause play in the crank? ..
"play" in the crank....there should not be any.

If your "play" is front/back that would point to bad thrust bearing.

If side to side...front bearing is beyond gone....or crank is broken

FWIW I have seen broken crank with car still running, no noise, but damper was way wobble though.

Do you have a cast Eagle crank?
Old 06-01-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ******
you dodged a bullet by trying to draw in the hub using the crank bolt...assuming you have not stripped/distorted the threads already.

Using the homemade versions of a "install" tool....suggest you get some grade 8 washers and a bearing to sandwich between them and a grade 8 nut to install it. Ideally using the Kent Moore tool if you can find one. They are high $ but very "plug & play" to install/remove hub
No, I didn't use the crank bolt, it was an ARP main stud I had left over from my build. 7/16-20 on the crank end, and 7/16-14 on the other end with a grade 8 nut. I was putting mega torque on the nut and the stud eventually snapped. The crankshaft threads are still good, and the snout itself looks fine also.

I am planning to heat the hub to a few hundred degrees in the oven for the next attempt, along with 7/16-20 threaded rod. I picked up an SBC balancer install tool from Pep Boys to use the thrust bearing to minimize friction. Hoping to avoid getting the Kent Moore tool since I don't plan to do this very often.
Old 06-01-2014, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jaycenk
***** and Capricemgr are on to it here with the "balancer" thing.

There is no balancer on the front of an LT1.
Since you want to get technical... GM does in fact call it a balancer.
Old 06-01-2014, 08:08 PM
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THe best way to explain the *Play* is its like a damn orbital sander haha. but no worries im doing a swap anyway so ill find out later what happened...

I have snapped an eagle 4340 crank behind the #1 main journal which is the reason I got out of LT1s because at the time i couldnt afford to rebuild my 383 a 3rd time so i sold it all and got a daily.
Old 06-01-2014, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro_freak
I am planning to heat the hub to a few hundred degrees in the oven for the next attempt, along with 7/16-20 threaded rod. I picked up an SBC balancer install tool from Pep Boys to use the thrust bearing to minimize friction. Hoping to avoid getting the Kent Moore tool since I don't plan to do this very often.
If you are going to use a threaded rod and thrust bearing there will be no need to heat the hub. It will go on very easy.
Old 06-02-2014, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
Since you want to get technical... GM does in fact call it a balancer.
My bad, they are the same thing. I was under the impression that a balancer aided in balancing the engine rotating mass and a damper was neutrally balanced. As I found out there are several other names as well that all seem to mean the same part. Thanks for the correction
Old 06-02-2014, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Spartan7
Since you want to get technical... GM does in fact call it a balancer.
Damper aka harmonic "balancer".
Old 06-03-2014, 06:44 AM
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There's already plenty of experience and good advice in this thread so I have nothing to add but:

Originally Posted by 1slo_camaro
I have snapped an eagle 4340 crank behind the #1 main journal which is the reason I got out of LT1s because at the time i couldnt afford to rebuild my 383 a 3rd time so i sold it all and got a daily.
I'll say that virtually every time I hear of a crankshaft problem, it's ALWAYS an Eagle crank. For the few dollars more that a better crank costs, why would anybody use Eagle?
Old 06-03-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
There's already plenty of experience and good advice in this thread so I have nothing to add but:



I'll say that virtually every time I hear of a crankshaft problem, it's ALWAYS an Eagle crank. For the few dollars more that a better crank costs, why would anybody use Eagle?

I will keep this short.... my *Engine Builder* put it together. it was when i was first getting into f-bodys and didnt really know a whole lot. I knew how to put a motor together I helped my old man on several motors but this was my first motor and he recommended it.... I cannot exactly blame eagle though... for the simple fact that after busting a piston skirt, while doing a trans build I took the engine back and asked him to replace the piston..... He did... except on a .030 over motor he replaced it with a stock piston. I will leave it at that.
Old 06-03-2014, 09:17 PM
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well if it was the .030 UNDER size piston slapping around or a broken Eagle crank......no doubt it would shake like a dog shiating razor blades
Old 06-04-2014, 12:53 PM
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i put about 500 miles on it with a .030 under piston and never felt anything.... went to the track and ran about 6 passes and on the way home rolled into it with an evo and when I let off I noticed all kinds of ruckus and saw oil spitting on the front....
Old 06-04-2014, 11:01 PM
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I tell ya finding a builder that I don't have to travel hundreds of miles to get to has been impossible. Even when everyone I can find says " This is your guy he can build it for you, he is the best around, he wont steer you wrong." I still manage to walk out with a dick in my *** from everyone of them. In fact that's gonna be my new quote. "I must be gay because every time I walk out of a machine shop I have a dick in my ***." If I had the space and I had the money and I had the time to learn to use all the **** I would own the equipment and do it my self so I can only be made at my self. I actually have a garden of engine blocks started. One of them is mine and the next is headed this way from my buddies ford. If I win the Lotto I will put my current one out to pasture as well.



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