LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

a4 to m6 conversion

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Old 05-23-2004, 11:02 AM
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Default a4 to m6 conversion

i just bought a clean 95 ta with a a4 and would like to do a m6 conversion in the future . has anyone done this on this board and is it pretty much a bolt in and does any one know of any good sites or pages on this conversion?
Old 05-24-2004, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rayce08
i just bought a clean 95 ta with a a4 and would like to do a m6 conversion in the future . has anyone done this on this board and is it pretty much a bolt in and does any one know of any good sites or pages on this conversion?
I've been kinda savin' up to do the same thing to my 97 but I'm working a different problem at the moment. Hope it goes well for ya.
Old 05-24-2004, 07:18 PM
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Put a big stall converter in that A4 and see if that doesnt change your mind

If you must go M6, heres a page that might be helpful.

http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm
Old 05-24-2004, 08:29 PM
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A4s have the advantage over M6s in the drag area. However, if you absolutely must do an M6... my friend with a thirdgen just swapped out a TH350 for a T-56 out of an LT1, I'll ask him for some details when i go check it out tonight.
Old 05-25-2004, 07:54 AM
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can you elaborate on why the A4's have the edge in drag racing over the M6.
Old 05-25-2004, 09:33 AM
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Biggest reason, you cant miss a gear
Old 05-25-2004, 09:42 AM
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I'm going to recommend against a big stall in an OBDI (94-95 LT1) car. Anything higher than 3200 and you WILL have trouble with the PCM. Been there, done that - and have a Yank ST3500 sitting on the shelf to prove it. My personal preference would be something like a Vig 2800 at this point. LS1's and OBDII LT1's have a different reaction to big stalls. But the 94-95 computers just don't like 'em.

I sold a 6-speed setup to a guy (out of my old parts car) who did a A4 to M6 swap. I sent him the pedals, tranny & bellhousing, clutch assembly, center console plate, and the 4 electrical connectors for the tranny (reverse lights, reverse lockout, vehicle speed sensor, and CAGS solenoid). The only thing he had to buy was a pilot bearing (under $15 from GM). Anyhow, it's not terribly tough, depending on how "factory" you want it to look... you'll have to run some wires to get everything set up right, but it can be done for under $2k if you look hard enough.

As for A4 vs M6 at the dragstrip... build your M6 drivetrain right, and the A4 advantage isn't as much as you'd think. Nothing like sticking a 6400 RPM clutch dump, pulling the fronts, and then banging the gears like a madman.



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