hrcslam

Bite the soap!

hrcslam

These are all very good points. But, the 9" does eat up more power than the 12 bolt.

Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

Carcraft dyno'd the same car with a 12 bolt, 9" and S60, the difference was pretty minimal.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...p/viewall.html

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

A few lost HP is worth it when you can launch off T brake or 2 step and not worry that your 12 bolt will whine horridly afterwords.

The 9 inch would be the lightest optioned rear if you can afford it and gives you much more gear set choices than a dana.

But, this is all m00t. 10 boltz fo lifez

hrcslam

This article is helpful, but not completely accurate for those of use pushing the 7K limits of the PCM. They only pull to 5800 and already had a 4.1% (and climbing) difference between the 12B and 9". On their test mule that was roughly 14hp at ~311-324rwhp. Put that up to a 7K rpm 400+rwhp car and the differences are larger still.

Even at the dyno'd 4.1% loss (which would be exceeded at 7K vs 5.8K) it's a loss on my car of ~17hp from the 12B to the 9". Looking at the rapid drop off from the 9" from peak horsepower and higher rpms it's easy to see a difference of 6% or higher on engines that rev to ~7K. For guys like me it's a
~24hp loss.

Surprisingly the Dana60 is actually closer to the 12B than the 9" and is stronger than the 9". It looks like the hypoid offset really has an effect larger than the ring gear diameter.

This is a very good point. But, I'd argue it's more than a few ponies lost. And gets worse with higher rpms and power levels too.

cardo0

Cant u clowns read, the OP already ordered a 12bolt. How long are u gonna keep the pissing contest going? The OP ordered a 12bolt and "Decided to keep all GM".

Yea first he says "Need something i don't have the cash for a 12 bolt" and "Id still like to drive it" and "Would like to stay with the 3.73's". So i gave him a $500 option with the 9 bolt and i gets attacks by the NOxderelict and the like clowns again because theres no mod here or maybe the mods are getting free sex from the same clowns. And we had 4 guys post their 10bolt rears lived a long and tortured life with better parts but somehow thats ok.

The nearest aftermarket upgrade gonna be at least 3 grand maybe 5 grand by the time its in the car. How f'n hard is it to suggest spending 10 times the money for a stronger part? Like it even takes 1 brain cell to say "use a 12bolt or 9" or D60"?? Same clowns, same BS, just a different thread.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

Hey there is NO free sex going on here. We like to keep it classy and use it in exchange for rights to make fun your idiot ideas and comments... BTW an 8.8 center section swap is by far the cheapest route to holding good power. just so the next time you need to give advice to someone and have nothing good to say... Don't worry that one is free and requires no sex.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

There's no pissing contest going on. It's called an intelligent conversation and maybe if you possessed more than half a brain you could participate.

I was just sharing the justification for what rear I went with in my specific app. However, I don't think it matters what rear you go with when it comes to a h/c car or something less powerful as long as it's not the dinky f-body 10 bolt.

cardo0

yea u were also sharing your opinion condemning the 9bolt but thats all it is - just your opinion. Ive been subject to your nonsense before as one day u justify used parts and the next thread u condemn them. Oh, oh your degenerate peer has a fetish now for a bastardized used 8.8 center section fantasy but thats ok for u to be complacent with. How u condone his slobbering is scary. U pathetically justify whatever u want which makes your advice and logic dog poop. Hah, intelligent conversation. What a narcissist.

Same clowns, same BS, just a different thread.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Its not really an opinion card00, to run a 9 bolt you either need a large wheel spacer and rather long wheel studs, or an illegal as per NHRA wheel adapter setup. Neither of which I would feel comfortable rocking on a DD especially on the drive wheels of a moderately powered car.

Of all the alternatives, that option does not really make sense short of getting the car to a roller status to move around teh driveway.

hrcslam

And all of that for an axle that doesn't have much aftermarket support and is only marginally stronger than the 7.625" 10 Bolt. (the 9 Bolt is 7.75").

Didn't GM do a torque arm 8.5"? It was in a Buick or something? It'd still require modding though.

The best $/hp strength for a rear axle has got to be the 8.8" center with F-body tubes welded on and a Hiltsy mount.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Yeah!!! Let's dump a bunch of money into a marginally stronger rear with little/no aftermarket support! Dinky 28 spline axles, limited carrier selection with rebuild parts being scarce, and a minimal increase in ring gear size... The 9-bolt isn't a viable option no matter what way you look at it and I'm not condemning anything because of condition. **** like this isn't worth your money new or used. It's a wasted effort.

Never said anything about the 8.8 but I'm personally against rigging it like that. I considered it at first but the hiltsy mount doesn't look sturdy enough for serious power and I would be afraid of cracked welds on a cast iron center. What I wanted to do was use the Lakewood TA for Mustangs and make a mount that would accept it on the f-body chassis but that idea was scrapped after considering the costs involved. An aftermarket bolt in rear housing could be had for a little more coin.

The only 8.5" 10-bolts I can think of from a Buick would be b-body or g-body (Grand National) rears. Neither use torque arms and are OEM 4 link afaik.

hrcslam

You are correct. They did sell an aftermarket (??) TQ arm set up for the GNX that was a casted Aluminum diff cover the tq arm would bolt to.

The 3rd Gen F-Bodies did have a very rare Dana 44 8.5" that would bolt right in though. Wish GM would've stuck with that route for the 4th gen.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I never understood why they would make a 8.5" 10 bolt for the b body cars and make the weak *** 10 bolt they gave us at the same time? Wouldn't it have been cheaper to make them all 8.5"? Even if the b bodies don't use a torque arm it seems to me making one housing and having universal guts across the board would have been more affordable. Not to mention even though heavy the b body cars didn't have screaming horsepower yet they got the stronger housing?

Someone in FL is offering 8.8 conversions for like $800 I think. So it is a very affordable option, they had video of their test car launching but who knows about longevity.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Seems like GM only did that for warranty/recall purposes because the b-bodies are much heavier and have optional towing packs. Those 8.5s aren't bad and come with 30 spline axles 91-96 if I'm not mistaken. They can take a beating.

Dirty_Bird

Id go with motive but i have 3.73, solid pinion spacer, welded tubes, girdle cover. Taken many launches at track and t brakes launches on street dead hooking. Makes no noise but my one tube is slightly bent but she still goes lmao!

cardo0

A $500 limit is not a bunch of money if it keeps your car on the road for the same price as a stock 7.5" 10bolt. Maybe u need some budgeting help who knows.
Ah at least i didnt even have to enlighten the hacks trying to weld cast iron to carbon steel tubes - u made my argument for me as it wouldnt be worth my effort.

Never had anyone measure any of my cars rear end - NHRA brackets or not. Tech has never even looked under my car. Glad u live and race where u do. I can tell u need your rear end inspected frequently for illegal objects. BTW the 9bolt axles dont use C-clips and is an increase in safety.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Usually card00, you are arguing with some shred of logic, however small and perhaps outdated. In this case you are arguing for something not really that safe.

Your car may not get teched seriously and who knows, may never will, but personal responsibility is still paramount. I will side with the NHRA and stick with calling a wheel adapter unsafe for drag racing.

Will they work? Sure. So you win card00.

hrcslam

Even Discount Tire wont deal those.

And most wheel adapters come with a warning too:

"The user of this item assumes all risk and holds no liability against the seller.
Wheel adapters are an aftermarket product and are intended for customizing show vehicles.
(Insert Company Name Here) makes no claims that the item is 'street legal' or safe to drive on public roads."

Jazz-LT1

iTrader: (2)

Is someone really making an 8.8 conversion kit for the F-body in Florida, on Mar, Pluto or where ever. I'd be interested in getting some info on that!