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Just today since I saw that I needed a new pump I've went from just replacing with another single 255 (they are dirt cheap now and I already have the upgraded harness that goes straight to alt), replacing with an Aeromotive 340, replacing with dual 255s and an RPM switch to turn on the second around 5k rpms, running a 255 but with a boost-a-pump, and even tossed up sumping the pan for an external race pump (but then decided against that due to heat for street duty and extra cost).
Now I'm back to the 340 w/ upgraded bulkhead connector going to my upgraded Racetronix harness. Seems like the best balance of cost, ease of installation, performance, and most reasonable setup...
Going to give Racetronix a call and talk to them Friday. If I could get away with just a 340 for ~$160, then even with the upgraded bulkhead and having to buy the chemicals to pull and clean the tank I'm looking at only a ~$200-$225 setback.
I expected worse when I pulled the stock pump assembly out and saw the filter sock crumbled in pieces in the bottom of the tank instead of on the pump...as dirty as the tank is I shined a light in there and it is physically sound - just full of varnish and gunk. I though it was rusted out at first and was sure I would need a new tank, pump bracket, sending unit, pump, etc.
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
I have a 340 with the upgraded bulkhead wiring and hotwire kit, it works well. Burnt the stock wiring in very little time.
Still debating whether I want to just pump the tank empty, soak it with vinegar, then pump it out again from the fuel pump hatch or if I should actually pull the tank.
Doesn't look like any rust in it, just varnish and peeling coating...
Disconnect the shocks and watch your brake line, it will swing forward enough on the control arms to give you room especially with a 10 bolt. I think you pull the panhard bars too. Really easy if you go in there knowing what to do.
Disconnect the shocks and watch your brake line, it will swing forward enough on the control arms to give you room especially with a 10 bolt. I think you pull the panhard bars too. Really easy if you go in there knowing what to do.
Draining it tomorrow then gonna give it a go over the weekend.
I'm hoping with an empty tank, the exhaust already out of the way, and the stock 10bolt I should be OK.
Glad your back at it. Always wanted to see this build finished. Get us some pictures up of progress
It's still mostly a million boxes lol.
If I had the lengths measured I could start cutting and installing the fuel system lines but I ******* hate working with braided stainless so I'm stalling .
Got the tank drained and its a bit worse then I thought.
Going to try to pull it tomorrow to flush it a few times and then give it a vinegar soak. I'll clean it up best I can then put it back to run with the current old setup while I finish the new motor and harness, then I'll replace it with a brand new tank when the new fuel system goes in. Once the current setup is running again I'll work on some weight reduction, the interior, making sure everything else is still in good shape like the brakes, electrical, suspension etc so I have a good solid platform for the new setup.
Not risking a $600 fuel system because a tiny corner of the tank that I couldn't see still had rust flakes.
Two hours by myself. Pulled upper panhard bar, removed chasis side bolt of lower and swung it out the way and lowered the rear with the chassis on stands - that's it...didn't **** with shocks, springs, wheel, nothing. Big relief!
Huge thanks to SNM for the boost of confidence...I was dreading this **** from all the horror stories but it wasn't bad.
Just can't play that game anymore with a real rear end
I would look into tossing a plastic LS1 tank in, saves some weight, doesn't rust and has a two piece filler neck.
That was the first thing I looked into, an aftermarket plastic tank, but I don't see and repros and the LS one apparently has totally different basket/electronics setup.
I see brand new factory ones on ebay for ~$125 so the new motor will get a new tank either way. If it doesn't clean up well then I'll replace it now, but if I can postpone that until later and just clean it up for the current setup for free then why not?
Want to get the current setup back on the road before the motor and trans swap since it will be a lot safer and easier to troubleshoot little things with this "throw away" combo.
In the mean time thinking of braking in the new motor on an engine dyno with a carb until I get my new harness, but I kind of wanted an apples to apples comparison for curiosity sake for flywheel vs rw with the same exact setup.
That vinegar is no ******* joke. On Tuesday I checked it and the hanger came out looking brand new after only 2 days. As of yesterday(4 days) the inside of the tank was a cloudy slimy mess so its doing something.
Tuesday will make a little over one week, so will drain it and see how it looks. If it cleaned up nice I'll run it with the current pump just to get it running while I work on everything else (and throw in a new tank and pump when the new motor goes in). If not I'll order the new tank, pump, and bulkhead and just install it all now.
Besides that still just need trans crossmember, carb hat, and harness. So close!
And then tune it, spend forever getting the bugs worked out, race it and spend the next forever adjusting suspension.. mine was "done" about two years ago
And then tune it, spend forever getting the bugs worked out, race it and spend the next forever adjusting suspension.. mine was "done" about two years ago
Lol yep. I see a lot of slow 1/8 mile foot braking shakedown runs in my future before any 1/4 mile trans brake launches.
Going to be a PITA to dial in from scratch again, with a ton more power this time. I've been there before so I'm not worried about being disappointed the first few times out. My H/C build only ran 12.4s the first time out and the damn thing was already running 12.8s in worse weather with just boltons. Eventually got it down to 11.7s without adding any power...just tune, suspension, and practice.
05-11-2015, 12:50 PM
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