First Start After Heads/Cam Swap
06-20-2015, 06:33 PM
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First Start After Heads/Cam Swap Just fired my car up after for the first time after doing a heads and cam swap.
Here is a you tube video of the first start. The sounds was too loud for my phone so you can't hear great, but it sounded pretty good in person.
It seems to run and idle ok. On my second start with the exhaust on, I gave it a couple small revs to 2,000 and it seems pretty smooth. The thing that concerns me is that it takes one or two seconds to actually start and coughs a little when turning the key. It did not do that a couple a few months ago when I took it apart. It started pretty much instantly.
The entire top end is pretty much new. I am running an initial tune from Solomon. My item in question is the opti I put on there. I put on a supposedly good used unit that I added a new cap and rotor to. The bearing in the used one felt a lot better than my old one. (I screwed my old one up trying to replace the cap and rotor.)
The car seems to run and I am not getting any opti codes. Do you guys think this opti is good, or could it be causing my long start issue?
I do not have the water pump right now. I would like to like to get the water pump back on so I can run it some more, but I want to make sure the opti is good first. Any thoughts?
Here is a you tube video of the first start. The sounds was too loud for my phone so you can't hear great, but it sounded pretty good in person.
It seems to run and idle ok. On my second start with the exhaust on, I gave it a couple small revs to 2,000 and it seems pretty smooth. The thing that concerns me is that it takes one or two seconds to actually start and coughs a little when turning the key. It did not do that a couple a few months ago when I took it apart. It started pretty much instantly.
The entire top end is pretty much new. I am running an initial tune from Solomon. My item in question is the opti I put on there. I put on a supposedly good used unit that I added a new cap and rotor to. The bearing in the used one felt a lot better than my old one. (I screwed my old one up trying to replace the cap and rotor.)
The car seems to run and I am not getting any opti codes. Do you guys think this opti is good, or could it be causing my long start issue?
I do not have the water pump right now. I would like to like to get the water pump back on so I can run it some more, but I want to make sure the opti is good first. Any thoughts?
06-21-2015, 07:55 AM
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I think I am going to roll the dice and put the water pump back on. I was doing some more reading and it sounds like a bad ECT (or not having it hooked up) can cause long starts. I was getting trouble codes related to the ECT. I think it is also running real rich since the garage almost smells like nitromethane after it runs. I believe this is due to the ECM thinking the temp is -40 deg.
06-21-2015, 12:49 PM
#3
you need to have all your sensors and air intake, exhaust hooked up for the car to correctly run right. If after that there are issues, scan for codes
you don't need the wp on just to start the car but you really can't let it run long enough to come up to "operating temp" without the cooling system being intact
not saying you may not have a mechanical or parts issue or incorrect valve lash but you first need to button up the motor, get all sensors hooked up and bring the motor up to operating temp before you chase any other potential problems
you don't need the wp on just to start the car but you really can't let it run long enough to come up to "operating temp" without the cooling system being intact
not saying you may not have a mechanical or parts issue or incorrect valve lash but you first need to button up the motor, get all sensors hooked up and bring the motor up to operating temp before you chase any other potential problems
06-21-2015, 01:31 PM
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Man, I bet is sounds pretty awesome. But that video is horrible for the audio justice. It's all distortion.
I agree with ******, you need to have all the sensors and plumbing together before assuming something is mechanically wrong. I've had a loose intake pipe between my MAF and TB on my Suburban cause all kinds of issues.
I agree with ******, you need to have all the sensors and plumbing together before assuming something is mechanically wrong. I've had a loose intake pipe between my MAF and TB on my Suburban cause all kinds of issues.
06-21-2015, 05:34 PM
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Well getting the water pump back on and everything hooked up seemed to fix the problem. It fires right up and seems to run right. I did not even get any SES lights. Here's a short idle video. Need to change the oil in it again and recheck everything and then it will be off the jack stands for a test drive. Too bad the weekend is over!!
