LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Beehive Selection 918's vs big block 120's

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-11-2006, 01:13 PM
  #1  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default Beehive Selection 918's vs big block 120's

Guys I am trying to understand how camshaft's relate to the valvetrain while looking at specs, My good Friend who is putting my Motor together recommended me the Big block Beehives over the LS 918's. Here are the specs on the springs http://compcams.com/Technical/Catalo...005/RC2005.pdf about a 1/4 the way down beside each other.

The setup is a
VRE 383 Forged 4340 Eagle crank, Forged H-beam rods, Forged Custom Diamond Pistons, 9.1 CR, 2-bolt main
D1SC around 14lbs, 4inch FMIC,Vortech Mono Bypass, custom Intercooler pipe
LE LT4 AFR's started as 195's now 216 chamber 57cc Flow around 290/234 (with pipe) 2.05 1.60 Valves
Ported Runner LT4 intake Opened TB (sold Single Plain conversion ) Monoblade (Heard I need to get a AUX spring since I am running boost??)
I have yet to get a Cam but Thinking about a 220/224 or a 224/230 using the Comp High lift version 3100 Lobes)
Selling Scorpian 1.7's and getting 1.6 pro Mag's
Cloyes Double Roller
EWP

The car will have a built 4L60E with either my 3000 stall 2.5 STR or I will Uprgrade to a 3200 or so (Free restall)

The car has a 10-bolt, T/A rearend Gurdle, Eaton Posi, Motive 3:73's, but plan on putting the 3:23's to help with traction, better gas mileage, and it will make the rearend not as PRONE TO BREAK. I don't plan on hooking so It should be ok till I get the 12-bolt them comes sticky Tires .
I wouldn't mine to go and run Low 11's with 2.3 60 foots at 130+ on street tires


That is a Little about my setup, This is what I am thinking I want to have Longevity out of this Motor and I want it to be Plenty Streetable that's Why I want to stay mild with the Duration Even on a 383 (Unless I can get away with more and still be TAME). Also I really don't see the need to spin the motor real high, I was thinking about 6000-6200 RPM that would be easy on the motor and the parts and the car can still prolly make around 600-650RWHP.
Old 04-11-2006, 02:04 PM
  #2  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
T/A KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I figured the Thread could benefit from a Few Pics.
[IMG][/IMG]
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...D/DSC00123.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...D/DSC00124.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...D/DSC00126.jpg

Heres a Few of the car
BEFORE
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...43_1_full1.jpg
AFTER
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...D/DSC00047.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...D/DSC00101.jpg
Old 04-11-2006, 03:36 PM
  #3  
Banned
iTrader: (2)
 
SStrokerAce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 2,344
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Ben,

You just gotta call me up and ask. You might get more out of one over another, in a blower setup it depends on a LOT of things. Basically your looking to get a grasp on a total valvetrain setup that you can't do easily without a lot of time and experience with the parts envolved.

Bret




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:01 AM.