ABS removal
#1
ABS removal
What does it take to remove the ABS on a 93 camaro? I do not have traction control, and I don't need a line lock. I just want to get rid of the unit and all the wiring to clean up under the hood and drop some weight. I saw the kits offered with the line locks but I have no need for that. Does someone sell just the lines and proportioning valves or whatever else I need and that's it?
#2
We've got kits for your situation. You do need at least your own line lock OR you can purchase our kits with them. For the 40.00 that you will pay for the kit with the LL, you not only receive a LL solenoid w/all fittings BUT you also recieve the complete electrical kit to install it.
If you still do not feel you want to use a LL (which I think you'd change your mind once you use it), just screw the solenoid in place but don't wire it in. It won't effect your brake system by just sitting in place.
If you still do not feel you want to use a LL (which I think you'd change your mind once you use it), just screw the solenoid in place but don't wire it in. It won't effect your brake system by just sitting in place.
#3
My $0.02
OK, I used one of the above mentioned kits (w/ the LL and a double flaring too included); my advice - before you cut your real brake lines, practice making a double flared end on an extra brake line to get the method perfected. Do this at least three times - it'll save your butt!
Oh, one more thing, USE TEFLON TAPE (!) on every fitting; 3 to 4 revolutions per fitting. This resolved three seperate leaks. Additionally, check your parts / test fit things before cutting, it just helps to line things up visually.
I had acouple of 'issues' with my installation but I do not blame the kit I puchased, but rather I blame myself. (Once a made a bend before putting the fitting on the correct side of the bend, and once I put a flared end on a brake line prior to placing the fitting on the end - both were stupid, rushed, mistakes.) Having said all that, with all my problems / leaks / etc, I'd still do it again.
The LT1 ABS delete kit that the previous post author offers (and which I purchased and used) is complete; but if you really wanted to just remove your ABS module, you could probably just T your two front lines together and then place a proportioning valve in line with your (single) rear brake line.
However, given the fact that the fittings on the factory brake lines are specifically sized, you'll still need to remove those fittings and put in OTC / generic fittings onto the line ends.
Food for thought; you can do it either way (buy a kit, or make a few trips to the local auto parts store) but remember: use that teflon tape, the proportioning valve goes inline to the rear brakes, and bleed that system lots! Clean brake fluid works, cloudy brake fluid does not.
MIKE (great421@yahoo.com)
Oh, one more thing, USE TEFLON TAPE (!) on every fitting; 3 to 4 revolutions per fitting. This resolved three seperate leaks. Additionally, check your parts / test fit things before cutting, it just helps to line things up visually.
I had acouple of 'issues' with my installation but I do not blame the kit I puchased, but rather I blame myself. (Once a made a bend before putting the fitting on the correct side of the bend, and once I put a flared end on a brake line prior to placing the fitting on the end - both were stupid, rushed, mistakes.) Having said all that, with all my problems / leaks / etc, I'd still do it again.
The LT1 ABS delete kit that the previous post author offers (and which I purchased and used) is complete; but if you really wanted to just remove your ABS module, you could probably just T your two front lines together and then place a proportioning valve in line with your (single) rear brake line.
However, given the fact that the fittings on the factory brake lines are specifically sized, you'll still need to remove those fittings and put in OTC / generic fittings onto the line ends.
Food for thought; you can do it either way (buy a kit, or make a few trips to the local auto parts store) but remember: use that teflon tape, the proportioning valve goes inline to the rear brakes, and bleed that system lots! Clean brake fluid works, cloudy brake fluid does not.
MIKE (great421@yahoo.com)
#4
Mike,
Thanks for the comments, they are well appreciated. Since the stock lines do need cut, unfortunately, there is no way around the customer not having to create a double flare. Even though it’s written in bold on the direction sheet in a multitude of places to slip fittings onto lines before flaring, some folks probably forgot as you have :-(.
I would like to comment regarding the use of Teflon. All components that need sealant is already pre-installed onto the kit (ALL of our brake kits come with pre-assembled lines/components that need Teflon), ALL other connections are compression fit and should not use or need sealant. Each male and counterpart female compression fittings need to be seated and tightened. The material is meant to deform to each other and create its own seal. If you looked inside the compression fittings of where you leaked, you may have damaged the seal thus the need for sealant. You may want to re-visit those fittings and correctly seat them.
Regarding making a kit themselves, there are many components that are included in your kit, actually everything needed if you purchased the complete kit. If a person was to assemble this kit themselves, it can be a self gratifying experience. I strongly believe that the costs they would encumber would not be much of a savings...if not more expensive in the end.
Thanks for the comments, they are well appreciated. Since the stock lines do need cut, unfortunately, there is no way around the customer not having to create a double flare. Even though it’s written in bold on the direction sheet in a multitude of places to slip fittings onto lines before flaring, some folks probably forgot as you have :-(.
I would like to comment regarding the use of Teflon. All components that need sealant is already pre-installed onto the kit (ALL of our brake kits come with pre-assembled lines/components that need Teflon), ALL other connections are compression fit and should not use or need sealant. Each male and counterpart female compression fittings need to be seated and tightened. The material is meant to deform to each other and create its own seal. If you looked inside the compression fittings of where you leaked, you may have damaged the seal thus the need for sealant. You may want to re-visit those fittings and correctly seat them.
Regarding making a kit themselves, there are many components that are included in your kit, actually everything needed if you purchased the complete kit. If a person was to assemble this kit themselves, it can be a self gratifying experience. I strongly believe that the costs they would encumber would not be much of a savings...if not more expensive in the end.