Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

Doing some re-search here on some rods/pistons needing everyones input.

1. Its only gonna be a street car I might take down to the drag strip every once and awhile.

2. SCCA events I might run it around the road course a couple times.

Anyways im planing on doing an LE2 set up and I wanted to build just a little bit better bottom end, I heard I can keep my stock crank I was just wanting to know what Rods/Pistons I should go with?

Im gonna bore it out to a 355 since she has 103K on it, just to be safe, and ill have it balanced and blue printed once I get all the parts.

Thanks for any help

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Really you would be fine with a stock bottem end. If you wanted to do a little more, you could get some ARP rod bolts and main studs and have the rotating assembly balanced.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

How much money are you willing to spend..
Me personally I would go with a set of Eagle 4340 Forged Rods with ARP Bolts, and look for some Forged Pistons, preferably light-weight ones. Then get you a set of good Bearings in there. Stock Crank is fine. After you get all that, get it Balanced.

Build it once, build it right.

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

dose the LT1 have the small or large crack journal?

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

and whats better "H" or "I" rods?

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

and whats the CC on the LT1 heads...im guessing 58CC?

Mighty Whitey

if it were me, I'd probably go with a set of 4340 I-beam rods, with bushed ends for full-floating use, as well as cap-screws instead of bolts/nuts. as well as a good quality forged piston (JE, SRP, Diamond, Weisco, etc...)

H-beams for an all-motor setup are probably a little excessive, as well as a little heavy. forged I-beams are WAY stronger than what you will need, and lighter to boot (a little easier to balance) than H-beams. A stock crank will do everything you want so long as you balance it properly.

rods/pistons are basically what I'll do when I build a motor as well.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

From what I have seen, some of the H-Beams are not that heavy either. I put the Eagle 4340 H-Beam's in my 402, and they weighed in at 600g, and felt really light. It depends on what you are doin with it I guess..

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

Yeah i read that, Eagles H-beams are 630 grams and there I-beams are 560 Grams.

Also isnt the LT1 a 5.7 Stroke? Its been a really long time since ive build an engine

z28hustle

i believe h beams are stronger than the i beams correct??

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

Thans what ive been finding out, Most I beams are rated from 6000-6500 and H beams are rated from anywhere to 6500-8000.

Anyone know the differance in between floated and pressed in Wrist Pin Style

aboatguy

For a NA 355 I'd use stock Crank, 6" Scat rods PN 2-ICR6000-7/16, Mahle pistons PN SBC250030F05 for the Powerpack piston kit

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

Why the 6.0 rods rather than the 5.7 Rods? Also why Scat? From what ive been told they arnt the best of rods?

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

The LT1 is a 3.480" stroke.

Any aftermarket rod would be fine for what you want to do really. Like I said before, the stock ones would.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Floating Wrist Pin has 2 Clips that hold the Pin in the center of the Piston, pressed is pressed into the Connecting Rod.

95FbFormula

iTrader: (25)

The 6.0 rods give the motor a little better geometry. the scat rods are actually pretty good with the 7/16 rod bolts I personally would never touch the eagle-I beams. if you want to get into bigger $$ manley makes a H-beam that weights 600 grams runs about $600 though