Fuel Pump Upgrade Help ... Gauge now pegged at Full ???
#1
Fuel Pump Upgrade Help ... Gauge now pegged at Full ???
I just replaced my failed stock fuel pump with an upgraded Walboro 255 lph pump kit from Racetronix. The car is running again, but the Fuel gauge is pegged at full, when there is probably about 3 gallons of gas in there. I followed the directions to the letter as far as I can tell. I made sure the purple gauge wire was put back in the proper position on the connector. Is it likely that the float is just sitting in the upright position? If there was no connection, wouldn't the gauge read empty since 90 ohms is full and 0 ohms is empty? Appreciate any input on this... Thanks, John.
#3
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If the purple wire isn't getting connection, it would be an infinity amount of Ohms. So I would think it would be stuck on full. That's just based on the principles of electricity.
#5
Thanks for the replies... I figured out what was wrong - I made a stupid mistake. Wasn't paying attention early in the morning after I let the glue on the bucket dry overnight. Here's what I did:
I'm not sure what the other connection is actually for, but it's identical, even with the hole in the center to clip the connector on. I wouldn't normally advertise these goofs, but it might help someone else one day!
I'm not sure what the other connection is actually for, but it's identical, even with the hole in the center to clip the connector on. I wouldn't normally advertise these goofs, but it might help someone else one day!
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Sweet. Did you cut a trap door in your interior? Because having to drop the tank twice would be a pain. It wasn't a fun job when I did my Racetronix. I especially hate taking off the catback because it never connects over the axle as far as it should.
#7
I didn't cut the trap-door in my case, so yeah, I had to pull the tank twice! I needed to take the exhaust off anyway to put on a cat-back system I've had for months. (BTW, the factory exhaust comes out pretty easily with everything dropped in the back!) I didn't put everything back together before testing the pump the first time - I just put the tank back, so it wasn't that bad. The 2nd time, I actually tested out the sending unit on the car without putting it back in the tank! I just removed the fuel pump relay so it wouldn't run and just manually operated the float.
I did notice something odd about the fuel level sending unit when I was bench testing it. The ohms are supposed to be 0-90, but I found that the range on mine was actually ~11-15 when empty and 110+ when full. I'm just wondering if this is because the unit was completely dry and not immersed in fuel. Maybe when it's wet with gasoline the ohm reading changes? I think I might start another thread and see if anyone knows the answer to that. Having 11-15 as the low reading doesn't work to well because the needle is just above empty on the guage when the tank is actually bone-dry at that point. That's just begging to be run out of gas.
I did notice something odd about the fuel level sending unit when I was bench testing it. The ohms are supposed to be 0-90, but I found that the range on mine was actually ~11-15 when empty and 110+ when full. I'm just wondering if this is because the unit was completely dry and not immersed in fuel. Maybe when it's wet with gasoline the ohm reading changes? I think I might start another thread and see if anyone knows the answer to that. Having 11-15 as the low reading doesn't work to well because the needle is just above empty on the guage when the tank is actually bone-dry at that point. That's just begging to be run out of gas.
Last edited by jb442; 07-17-2007 at 01:55 PM. Reason: SP