zeekracing

iTrader: (5)

I'm having a lot of trouble setting my valves. I've got it on tdc, dot to dot. I try to set the valves with my book w/intructions but #8 exhuast valve is still up when I belive it should be down. I went to set anyway and the nut bearly went on the stud before I hit 0 lash. I knew this was wrong since most the others go almost 1/4" down on the stud. Then I rotated the motor 180 degrees to set the rest of the valves and had so much slack on #8 exhuast the pushrod almost fell out. I have this problem on a few of them. I was told the cam is the biggest one that gm sells. Can anyone help? Please let me know I've been fighting this thing and its woopen my a$$. Thanks!

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

make sure your on the compression stroke(right when the spark plug would fire). i learned that the hard way. took me 2 days to figure out what i did. i had the same problem you did. i wasnt on the compression stroke when adjusting my valves.

i brought each cylinder to TDC(following the firing order of the engine) and then adjusted them.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

The easiest and most foolproof way that seems to be safe on any cam that I have been taught is...

Adjust the intake when the exhaust begins to open (exhaust lifter starts coming up)

Then adjust the Exhaust when the intake closes (intake lifter fully down on base circle)

You can do this method each bank at a time from front to back or back to front or whatever, or you can follow the firing order. If you are new to this the easiest way would probably be for you to do it one bank at a time from front to back. IE first do 2,4,6,8 then 1,3,5,7.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, 4 stroke engine, have to make sure the piston is at TDC on the right stroke. It sounds like you have it at TDC between the exhaust and intake strokes rather than between compression and power strokes.

zeekracing

iTrader: (5)

Doing the valves one at a time sounds easier. I'm confusing myself now I think. How do I know If I have tdc on the right stroke?

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

you have to look at the rocker position when your spinning the engine over by hand. start at #1 cylinder. when you see the intake rocker/valve start to go down(the spring will start to feel compressed). at that point the piston is sucking in the air/fuel. when the intake rocker goes all the way back up completely is when you will be at the correct stroke(compression)

you dont necesarly have to start at #1 cylinder. as long as you see the intake valve go down and back up you can start at whatever cylinder that may be

the firing order for an LT1 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

the firing order for an LS1 is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3

also there are several ways to adjust valves. i personally liked bringing up each cylinder to TDC but the other easy way is bringing up #1 to TDC then adjusting the correct cylinders then bring #6 To TDC then adjusting the remaining valves. method #1 or method #2 are my favorites

heres a link that explains how
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves


hope that helps

zeekracing

iTrader: (5)

thanks that helps a lot!

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

no problem man, if you have any other questions feel free to ask. it seems confusing at first but once you get the hang of it you will realize how simple it is. i was in the same boat as you a few weeks ago

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

Using that method is exactly how I learned NOT to use that method. It would probably be fine with a stock or small cam, but back when I didn't know any better and used that method on a 242/248 cam it left me with still having lash in my #7 exhaust. I ended up breaking a pushrod and ruining a lifter and my cam. After going to that experience I believe that the method I explained above is probably about as safe and simple as you can get.