NOS327

iTrader: (30)

Hi guys, I got the whole shootin' match out of this '06 GTO for my T56 swap into a '67 chevelle. I see the clutch master is different than the f-body stuff. I'm also noticing that the lines appear to be different. Are there drawbacks with the GTO stuff? Is the infamous drill mod still needed? I haven't gotten everything all the way apart, but so far the smallest restriction I can find is around .115" ID.

Also, I googled "FTE Clutch" since the master says FTE on the side. Believe it or not their website goes on to explain that their automotive stuff has restrictors to restrict the return of fluid to avoid excessively fast clutch engagement. Now I'm not a crazy aggressive stick driver, but it seems goofy to have this handicap built in.

Lastly, I see that Tick has a GTO master available now and the one guy's post here states "The factory stock master cylinder doesn't flow enough fluid to guarantee a full disengagement of even a stock clutch in some GTOs." So I guess an aftermarket piece is necessary?

Anyone post overall experiences with OE GTO stuff? This is just going to be a mild performance resto mod deal. Probably see occasional track time, but not a bunch. Probably end up with LS7 clutch with it.









Thanks in advance for any opinions.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

If you can keep the lines away from your headers, the GTO hydraulics are fine. Once they are overheated, of course, problems could arise. The only time I ever had a problem with mine was when few people showed at the track and I was able to make a run within one or two minutes of making the 90 mile drive. By third gear my fluid boiled, causing the dreaded pedal to the floor problem. By the time I idled over to get my timeslip, the problem was gone. I made several other runs that night with no problem.