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Master quick disconnect wont go back in slave

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Old 10-13-2010, 03:25 AM
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Default Master quick disconnect wont go back in slave

I have had my 01 WS6 clutch assembly apart 4 times now and with no problems except for the 1st time it took an hour to figure out how to disconnect the line from the slave. This time I pulled my master out to do the drill mod, all went well, smooth sailing and once I was down to plugging the line back into the slave and bleeding the system I hit a road block lol. I have done about everything to this car myself, new gears,tranny,clutch, all but engine install, and I struggle for 3 hours to push the fitting back into the slave cyl, and still did not get it in! I never had a problem when connecting the disconnect, slave is just a year old, can the metal ring in the slave fitting be bent or something? I even took the plastic ring off that is used to disconnect the line and tried pushing it in that was and I even have the floor board hole cut out to bleed my clutch when I first got the car 2 years ago. I am about to explode from frustration!
Old 10-13-2010, 07:10 AM
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Did you try opening the bleeder on the slave a little bit?
Old 10-13-2010, 09:24 AM
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Yeah open the bleeder some.
Old 10-13-2010, 06:35 PM
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Default yep

Yea I tried cracking the bleeder, pushing pedal to the floor, everything but leaving the cap off the master cylinder, it has no fluid in it now, and the quick disconnect fitting end will push in with no problem to drain fluid out, so only thing I cant think of is the metal ring inside the slave female connector maybe has finger bent down too far maybe and just isnt letting the master side snap in. I might try changing it out and put the old slave metal snap ring in the female fitting.
Old 10-13-2010, 08:08 PM
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if you pushed pedal to the floor, you might as well change master, it's probably blown. If not connected to slave.
Old 10-13-2010, 09:36 PM
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Default blown master.

Originally Posted by nwalton29
if you pushed pedal to the floor, you might as well change master, it's probably blown. If not connected to slave.
When I finished the drill mod and flushed the line out from the bottom to the top when the line was out of the master cylinder to flush out metal shavings, but also on installuniversity.com it said after you hook the line back to the master cylinder either bench bleed it or hook it all up and bleed it to remove old fluid from master by pressing down the clutch pedal while keeping the end of the line pressed in so fluid would flush through. The pedal wont press down unless the line is hooked up to the slave or you have the end of the line depressed in with something to let pressure through. I think you were thinking that I tried pressing the pedal down without the line being depressed or like you said not hooked up to the slave. The line snapped in fine when I took the O-ring off the end of the quick disconnect, so I know its not the metal ring in the fitting. Could the O-ring have heated up too much and swelled up too much, I dont remember it ever needing to be pressed in so hard to get it connected....with the o-ring on its about 1/16in from snapping in, I just cant get enough leverage with my fingertips to get that last 1/16in.
Old 10-14-2010, 06:51 AM
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Sometimes they're just stubborn. I've removed mine a few times and sometimes it clicks in easy and other times it's like it's crooked. Pull the quick connect back out and as dumb as it may sound make sure it goes in as straight as possible and add a slight twist to it. This has also worked when I was about to just pull my hair out. Also, one time I got so frustrated I just let it sit overnight and the next day it slid in smooth as silk.
Old 10-14-2010, 10:14 PM
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Default same thing happened to me

Originally Posted by blue98Z
Sometimes they're just stubborn. I've removed mine a few times and sometimes it clicks in easy and other times it's like it's crooked. Pull the quick connect back out and as dumb as it may sound make sure it goes in as straight as possible and add a slight twist to it. This has also worked when I was about to just pull my hair out. Also, one time I got so frustrated I just let it sit overnight and the next day it slid in smooth as silk.
The first time I had my tranny out it was hard to get unplugged, but pushed back in a month later or so when I put the tranny back in and I remember I had to get my fingers and hands jammed up there to get leverage but it went right in. The second and 3rd time I had to do it I used a line wrench that fit up against the back of the fitting and used a 1ft bar to pry against the line wrench just enough to get it snapped in. I finally got it last night after 3hrs of trying. I remembered how I did it the last 2 times but I ended up having to get a 2x4 that I cut 10 in long and stuck it against the firewall and then used my snap on 1ft pry bar, I put the claw end around the line and against the back of the fitting and had to pry it in with the 2x4. It got right to where I was having trouble pushing further and I gave it a little bit of a nudge and it just snapped right in. It went in by hand easy when I took the O ring off the end of the fitting, but with it on it was really hard to push that last 1/16in or so. I think the O ring is prolly about wore out, It slides out of the groove and off the fitting just using my fingers, and its very flimsey. We will see if it works out, I also flushed the whole system out since I read it should be done when fluid gets brown. I never have changed it in the 30k miles i've had the car, it is BLACK. I never had a problem shifting after I had the tranny built and LS7 clutch and pro 5.0 shifter. I do have to shift to 1st b4 I go into reverse or it wont go to reverse at all. Also the last time at the track I launched at 3k and the pedal stuck to the floor for the first time ever, thats what led me to do the drill mod finally and stumble on the fluid changing intervals and types of fluid. I am going to use DOT 4 now also.



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