Now offering reman'ed T56's outright !
#61
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I have an lt1 t56 right now that was recently rebuilt ~20k miles ago but needs a 2nd gear blocker. How much would that cost along with a conversion to the ls1 style t56? I know for sure I need the blocker replaced but am also hoping to go ls1 with the car so prices for both would be great if you could. Thanks!
Anyway to answer your question, the tranny has to be completely torn down in order to access the 2nd gear ring. I see T56s all the time that were previously "built", but not built correctly (i.e. not all the necessary parts were replaced). Then it will be inevitable that you'll see problems down the road. It may not necessarily be the blocker ring. My best guess would be that the engagement teeth on 2nd gear are probably worn and it should have been replaced to begin with. No way to tell until it's torn down, though. It will be $300 best case, and $500 worst case to fix your 2nd gear problem. Call in for the quickest reply 817-300-6840 <---my direct line
-Jason
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For what its worth I had Jason rebuild my T56 a while back he said it would take about two to three days. Not even 24 hours later I got a call and picked it up that evening, he even stayed open late to wait on me. Before I left hid shop I had one of his Diamond clutches in my trunk also. This guy knows his **** and will do you right. Thanks Jason.
Anyway, thanks a lot for the good word!!
#63
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-Jason
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Yes, BUT I have a waiting list going on, unfortunately. I just did a quick run-thru today and there are enough parts to build 4 units, so I'd say there's a good chance I can get one built for you. I'll have to call the people on the list to be sure they are still in the market. Some have been waiting for 2 months.. so they have first dibs. However, if they aren't ready when I call, then you'll be that much higher on the list. Call me Tuesday afternoon or later and I'll have a better answer 817-300-684
-Jason
-Jason
Thanks Ill call later today,
Rick
#66
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had my trans rebuilt by jason and he really knew what he was doing it came back soooo much better than when it left its installed now but i dont wanna drive wit open headers so i'm tryin to b patient until i get the y pipe, paycheck needs to hurry, Fyi I shipped my trans on a friday and got it back on my porch 8 days later i felt it was a very good turn around time considering the trans shop had my car for 4 months
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It looks like we will actually have 6 T56s built and ready to go this week. 2 of those are already spoken for, and #3 is going to the above poster. The next 3 will be up for grabs. Unfortunately, due to rising parts costs, the price is going up a hair for those last 3. $1950 for the f-body style and $2150 for the Corvette internals (2.66 first or 2.97 first). I *might* have one 2.97 triple cone trans up, but I'll have 2 of the stock ratio (2.66) T56s up for sale. Thanks for all your patience!
#72
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Okay, let's see if I can make this make sense. I currently have an LS T56 that was built by Tick (no complaints). It will probably get tossed into a 1979 Z28, along with the 408 in my sig. I was playing with the tire/gear/rear end calculator, and have decided that I want to see about getting different gears. The way I calculated, I will end up with either a 3.08 or a 3.23 rear end. This car might end up as a daily-ish driver, and will be driven longish distances to shows and whatnot; so a good, comfortable cruising rpm at ~55 and ~70 is necessary, and is more important than brutal acceleration as this will mainly be a cruiser. Use a 26.7" tire if you want to play with the calculator as well. So, here come the questions:
Can I get the M28 gearset instead of the LS?
If so, can you, as the post below suggests, make me an oddball 5th and 6th? This would bring the cruising rpms down by about another 50 and give me better acceleration since I could switch from a 3.08 to a 3.23 final drive. It would put me at 1650, while the regular .8 and .62 puts me at 1700.
Would you reccomend doing anything I have said so far? If not, what would you suggest?
What kind of cost would I be looking at? It will be another year or two before the car is ready for this, but I am one of those people who need a plan to go off of, piece by piece makes me crazy. Also, I don't plan on losing any of the current 503 horses when I rebuild the 408, so figure 500-550rwhp. (150 shot of nitrous if I can get it approved by the Mrs.)
Can I get the M28 gearset instead of the LS?
If so, can you, as the post below suggests, make me an oddball 5th and 6th? This would bring the cruising rpms down by about another 50 and give me better acceleration since I could switch from a 3.08 to a 3.23 final drive. It would put me at 1650, while the regular .8 and .62 puts me at 1700.
Would you reccomend doing anything I have said so far? If not, what would you suggest?
What kind of cost would I be looking at? It will be another year or two before the car is ready for this, but I am one of those people who need a plan to go off of, piece by piece makes me crazy. Also, I don't plan on losing any of the current 503 horses when I rebuild the 408, so figure 500-550rwhp. (150 shot of nitrous if I can get it approved by the Mrs.)
That's not a problem to do. However, it won't be exactly the same as the Z06/early LT1 (29-tooth input) with the .80 5th and .62 overdrive. The input shaft teeth are a factor in the gear ratio calculation, so you can't have the exact ratio that the 29-tooth transmission has. Since you'll still have the 31-tooth maindrive gear (input shaft), you'll actually end up somewhere between the stock ratio and the lower ratio. So for 5th, it will be between .74 and .80, probably .76 or .77, and for 6th between .050 and .62, probably .56-.57.
At any rate, as long as I have a gear set in stock, there's no charge to change the 5-6 gears to a lower (numerically higher) ratio. The only way this could cost you is if your old 5-6 gears are damaged.
I you are wanting me to change out these gears only, and not go any further into the trans, it's $125 labor.
At any rate, as long as I have a gear set in stock, there's no charge to change the 5-6 gears to a lower (numerically higher) ratio. The only way this could cost you is if your old 5-6 gears are damaged.
I you are wanting me to change out these gears only, and not go any further into the trans, it's $125 labor.
#73
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I don't see why the modified 6060's are going for $3000-4000 at other shops. I haven't messed with it yet, but I'd be willing to bet that I could do it cheaper
#74
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I'd say the shaft is good for 950rw easily, but the gears will start to give at around 850rw with extreme driving. Roll racing will be just fine with your numbers. Anyway, good talking to you earlier today.
#75
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Same here, I look forward to doing business with you within the week. Do you have anything on the shelf ready to go out? I think I'm going to acquire a new clutch as well, while I'm in there.
#76
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Would it be cheaper to buy a Stage 2 outright and send you my core for a refund or just send my trans in to be built? My 3/4 gears grind, every other gear is fine.
Also would the optional gearing benefit a Stock SS w/3.42s? Thanks.
Also would the optional gearing benefit a Stock SS w/3.42s? Thanks.
#78
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Jason
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It would end up being the exact same price either way. You'd just have to pay more up front to buy a trans outright, then you'd be refunded accordingly once your trans is received (after you swap it out). The only advantage is that you would have much less downtime. Currently I don't have any units in stock, except one with Corvette internals (triple cone rings, stock gear ratio). The optional lower gearing would make it like having 3.83 rearend gears in a 3.42 car, like yours. This requires a triple cone conversion, which is a $300 upgrade, like mentioned above. Basically I don't charge any extra for the gear ratio change, as you're only paying for the triple cone conversion. I just got a 2.97 triple cone core T56 in today, but it needs to be built. Just call for more info 817-847-7900. Thanks!
Jason
Jason