vortecracing

I have a 96 Camaro SS 6spd. I replaced my clutch with a Spec 3 clutch and worked fine for the 500 mile break in period. When it hit about 700 miles I was loading it on the car trailer to go racing and the starter destroyed it self sending chunks of the housing everywhere inside the bell hoising thus damaging the clutch. I got another Spec 3 identical to it and installed it along with a new Master and slave cylinder but old line. When you would release the clutch pedal the clutch would not grab until the pedal was almost all the way out. I checked and there was air in the hydralics. I rebleed them got all of the air out and tried the pedal again same results. I then checked again and there was air in the system. I then replaced the master and slave cylinder again and tried to bench bleed and by pushing the slave cylinder in. I can get all of the air out of the system where you just see fluid backing up. As soon as I work the master you can start to hear air in the system and if you push the slave in you see air bubbles out of the resivoir. I have replaced the clutch 2 times and the master and slave 3 times and still have the same issue. Anyone have any ideas what is causing this or how to fix it? Sorry for the long post but getting stumped here and wanted to make sure I listed everything I have done.

Parts that I used
2 spec 3 clutchs
3 Perfection clutch master and slave cylinders
Still using the factory braided line but have vacuum and pressure tested fine

vortecracing

I bench bleed the system again and have no air in the system. I then reinstalled everything in the car and tried it with the same results. When I let the pedal out the clutch grabs at about 3/4 pedal instead of at the bottom where it was grabbing originally. So if I am looking at this correct it seems as if the clutch fork is to far in holding pressure on the pressure plate causing it not to engage at the correct time. Could it be a weak pressure plate thus when I install the slave cylinder it applies enough pressure to the clutch fork to begin dissengaging the clutch? It is a brand new pressure plate from Spec.

95 TA - The Beast

iTrader: (2)

Sounds to me like it is now working properly...

You want the clutch to release/engage somewhere from 1/2 way up to 3/4 of the way up...

You do NOT want it to engage at the bottom... That just means there is air in the system and it can't build enough pressure to push the slave plunger and disengage the pressure plate until the master is at max throw...

The way you have it now is the way it should react.

The other way you run the risk of accelerated clutch wear due to it not fully disengaging.

vortecracing

When I installed the first Spec replacing an Advance Auto clutch I never took the slave or master loose. It grabbed right at the floor where as the previous one grabbed about half way of pedal stroke. I figured that was correct. My main concern is withit being at the end of the pedal stroke to make sure the pressure plate is grabbing/engaging with all the force it is supposed to and not slip any. Guess thats why they sell adjustable master cylinders. Thanks for the response.