RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

This is good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to submit this write up.

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

^^^ No problem, if anyone needs any more info or help feel free to PM me or post in here.

TRANNY IS DONE!!! Shifts like butter, I've never felt any other tranny this smooth!! Super excited to get my car done now to see how well it shifts in upper RPM.

Sealed everything and it's ready to go. For the VSS gear, instead of milling grooves on the mainshaft we just tack welded the gear on to the mainshaft. Mainshaft was cut 2". Forgot to take more pics. Here's some of when we milled the shifter pad down.

94camaroz28lt1

iTrader: (1)

cool nice end mill if thats what it's called.. I'd like to have one of those. Any pics of the main shaft wiht the gear tacked on and shaft cut? How did the clutch fit up, did you use the LS1 flywheel and clutch? And the 2010 camaro slave cylender?

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

I'll get some more pics tomorrow. I am using a McLeod RXT twin with their aluminum flywheel (for LS3 camaro PN: 63055-00-07), and yes, you need to use the stock 6060 slave cylinder for this conversion (still need to make the pipe with an AN fitting for the line that goes off the slave). I don't think an LS1 clutch/flywheel will work since the input shaft on the 6060 is a different length.



Also, found some push on AN fittings that go into the case so we don't have to weld them on. Now need to order some -6AN hose and fittings, and a cooler.

94camaroz28lt1

iTrader: (1)

I think the difference in lengh is jsut were you put the pilot bearing, you can use the small needle bearing pilot about 7/8" in the deepest whole for long intpout shafts, or the 1 1/4" ? ball bearing pilot in the closest step portion of the crank, you can use the large pilot with a F-body T-56 if you use a 3/8" transmision to bellhouisn spacer, there are also salve shims if need to bring the slave back into allignment.

I beleave the SSR uses the larger pilot bearin thats why the bellhousing is so much longer? I belave the CTS-V does as well.

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

Here's some more pics...

2" cut off the mainshaft:



1 1/4" cut off the yoke:



Welded the plate where the shifter linkage was and took out the original shift rod in it:



Pic of it all done... was a fun project. Can't wait to test it out.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Looks good. I wouldn't bother with welding up the old shifter box and just cut a block-off out of sheet metal. You'll probably find its gonna hit your tunnel with the box up there...

94camaroz28lt1

iTrader: (1)

Yea that.. I couldn't get my hand, between the tunnel and the stock one on my 94 Z28, when I was checking for oil leaks!

94camaroz28lt1

iTrader: (1)

Jelous looks like a stout trans. What style pilot bearing does the LS3 use? small needle, or large ball-bearing?

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

You have to use the large pilot bearing with this conversion.

94camaroz28lt1

iTrader: (1)

OK thanks!

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

awesome job...Good idea..

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

Awesome work and thanks for providing the information. I'm curious about your statement above. By smooth do you mean its not notchy while shifting compared to the older T56?

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

Not notchy at all (although I haven't ran it in the car yet). Going through the gears feels so much more easier than the old T56. I'll post a video just for ***** and giggles soon.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I think to make this swap more generic, you'll need to come up with a different way to secure the VSS wheel. If you throw up some pics, I/We might be able to offer some suggestions.

We also need to have someone with deep pockets, try this on a T56 Magnum. Should be a simple follow-on, but will close the loop on making these F-body Magnum hybrids.

Documenting the work/parts needed to update a stock F-body tail housing will also help future DIY'ers decide what's best for them considering the machinework/costs/strength/etc between the 2 tail options. (Stock F-body vs SSR)

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

There is no other way around it, that's why we just decided to tack weld it onto the mainshaft. The only other option would be to put the mainshaft on a lathe and machine the grooves for the retainer, since the mainshaft doesn't come with them.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Not to sound condecending, but if you don't open up to other ideas, you may think there's no way around it. What's the diameter of the shaft where the wheel has to ride? I hone a CTSv wheel to use on the 32spline T56 for an inference fit. The same or similar may work here?

TPI TERROR

iTrader: (52)

interesting. whats the total cost ?
how much hp will you be pushing?

i was looking at the bell housing and its mated to the front case. is it detachable?
what are the advantages of running the newer slave cylinder set up besides the quick disconnect an hoses

id like to see video of putting this to the test.

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

The 6060 I bought almost brand new for $1250, the SSR tailhousing was $240, the mainshaft was $140, yoke was $70, seal for the tailhousing was $4, I think I bought a bearing or two to replace on the mainshaft, probably another $20, and another $20 for brake clean and gasket maker. All together I spent about $1750. A friend and I together did all the labor, so it might be more expensive for someone who doesn't have or have access to a lathe/mill/drill press.

The motor is built to handle 1200whp.

You are correct, the bell-housing is attached to the front case. The case/bell-housing is detachable, however the bell-housing by itself is not.

I am not really sure if there is anything better about these slaves than the 01-02 slaves, but I assume they are engineered better. This slave is required for the conversion anyways, since the length of the input shaft on the T56 and TR6060 are different (6060 input shaft is longer).

I wish I had taken a pic before we sealed everything up... We actually had to hone the stock TR6060 VSS wheel and then tack weld it. I believe we honed it .010.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, it would have been nice. If you had to hone it that much, it probably would have sufficed to hone it to an inference fit and just used a dab of red loctite to keep it in place..

Welding, even tacking, on a mainshaft isn't ideal for anyone. (Especially for the next person to rebuild it.. ;-) )