T56 rebuild, 1-2 synchro is hard to slide
03-17-2012, 05:40 PM
#1
T56 rebuild, 1-2 synchro is hard to slide I'm currently rebuilding my T56 with a Stage 2 kit from thegearbox. The 3-4 with billet keys and 5-6 move very smoothly, but the 1-2 is tough to move. I replaced only the whole 1-2 synchro assembly, but 3-4 and 5-6 are stock. It will slide but takes some effort. It has billet keys (which thegearbox said don't need to be ground down) and green springs. When it's slid they keys appear to be sitting in correctly. I tried it with the stock keys and same result. Just curious if this is the norm with a new synchro and billet keys. I could take it off and inspect but what a PITA that would be. Thanks!
03-17-2012, 05:54 PM
#2
Any to clarify, the the keys are lined-up in the recesses on the slider. Everything is lubed with assembly lube/grease. The slider is in the correct way with the grooves on the outside pointing towards the input shaft.
What I forgot to do is mark how the slider was assembled with the hub out of the box. Does it matter? It looked symmetrical. I put the slider on the hub the three possible ways and it didn't matter. Does the hub have to go on a certain way?
What I forgot to do is mark how the slider was assembled with the hub out of the box. Does it matter? It looked symmetrical. I put the slider on the hub the three possible ways and it didn't matter. Does the hub have to go on a certain way?
03-17-2012, 08:17 PM
#3
Curious how you changed out the stock keys without taking off the hub? If you left the hub on the mainshaft, it's likely that the inner spring is not aligned. Does it slide ok with no keys at all? It does take more effort with the new stronger springs.
Can we presume that the blocker rings are all new? were they soaked/lubed correctly?
The hub/slider should be aligned to how they were machined, you may or may-not have difficulty if they are not especially on a new set.
Are you trying to slide the hub with the fork, or just by hand.
03-18-2012, 04:30 PM
#4
Curious how you changed out the stock keys without taking off the hub? If you left the hub on the mainshaft, it's likely that the inner spring is not aligned. Does it slide ok with no keys at all? It does take more effort with the new stronger springs.
Can we presume that the blocker rings are all new? were they soaked/lubed correctly?
The hub/slider should be aligned to how they were machined, you may or may-not have difficulty if they are not especially on a new set.
Are you trying to slide the hub with the fork, or just by hand.
Can we presume that the blocker rings are all new? were they soaked/lubed correctly?
The hub/slider should be aligned to how they were machined, you may or may-not have difficulty if they are not especially on a new set.
Are you trying to slide the hub with the fork, or just by hand.
Blocker rings were soaked in ATF and everything got trans lube. I'm trying to slide it by hand and with the fork on the rail. I'm going to pull the 1-2 synchro off today and doublecheck it.
03-18-2012, 08:51 PM
#5
So I think I figured it out. I wasn't lining up the teeth very well on the blockers, 1/2 gears, and the slider. With all the teeth lined up it slides pretty smoothly. With the thick assembly lube and how cold it is in my garage the blockers hold on pretty well to the gears.
I did pull it off anyways and made sure the springs were on the keys correctly. It's tricky but you can install the keys with the hub still on, as long as the spring is already in there and in the right orientation.
I did pull it off anyways and made sure the springs were on the keys correctly. It's tricky but you can install the keys with the hub still on, as long as the spring is already in there and in the right orientation.
