mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

When I compare my old stock pressure plate to my new one, the new one's fingers or springs are sticking out more than my stock ones. In other words, when I lay the two pressure plates side by side on a workbench with clutch face down and spring/fingers up, the fingers on the new one are sticking up higher than the stocker, but all other parts of the pressure plates match up. It's not just a mm or two, it's a pretty big difference.

Is this OK?

I can get a camera if you guys need it and think it'll help.

I have it all torn apart and this is a big deal for me so looking to hear from someone if this is normal or not before I can proceed, as I REALLY REALLY don't want to pull this transmission out again all by myself.

Side question: none of the FAQ's mention to use thread locker on the flywheel or PP bolts so I'm not, unless someone here thinks that's wrong.

THANK YOU.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Prolly your old PP is just tired, so the fingers will not be up as high as when new. I always use red Locktite on anything trans or clutch related...

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply.

Yep you are right. Once I got the PP torqued down to the flywheel it pulled the fingers way in to near what the tired one was.

I went ahead and used thread locker on the flywheel and PP.

One thing I didn't expect was that when I tried mating the trans to the bellhousing, looking in the gap I saw that the last maybe 1/2 inch the throwout bearing was already touching the fingers on the PP, and that is why it had a tough time on that last 1/2 inch because I had to overcome the spring on the throwout bearing somewhat apparently for the last 1/2 inch of the trans install. It was a new TO bearing so I had no line installed, I wonder if some of these people with problems mating the trans just need to crack the bleeder to release pressure so the TO bearing is free to move in...? Otherwise I guess you're fighting the PP fingers on that last 1/2 inch? Just a theory.

I don't remember reading that anywhere, everyone always just the last 1/2 inch is tough, I thought they were all talking about the dowel pins or something.

I guess it's OK because even though the clutch pedal engages a bit low, it is releasing and engaging, I didn't bleed it a whole lot yet.

If any of this sounds incorrect or a sign of a problem, PLEASE LET ME KNOW, thanks again.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Not sure what clutch you're installing, but we recommend locktite on both PP and flywheel bolts. I assume the clutch you are using requires a shim?

mk3cn4

iTrader: (3)

As it turns out no, a shim was not needed apparently. New clutch grabbing maybe 2 inches from the floor but otherwise seems OK, need to put the console back in before I can give it it's break-in and functional test. Bleeding it did make it better so I bet I just need to bleed it again.

I think a shim is needed when the PP fingers don't reach the throwout bearing if I understand it correctly, I had the opposite situation, my fingers were touching my TO bearing about 1/2 inch from trans-to-bellhousing touching, so I think that last 1/2 inch I was fighting against the TO spring (fluid line was empty).

I installed the tick speed bleeder and it's awesome. I first ran clear tubing into the straw hole of an old McDonalds cup (worked awesome) and once the fluid got clear I just ran the tube right into the master cylinder so I didn't need to refill as much and just pumped away. Tons of bubbles came out.

I'm not sure I'd tackle that job again, took like 4 hours to get trans out and another say 5 to get everything back and bled, and that's some hard labor. I think I'd consider paying someone next time.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I recommend reading the sticky at the top of the page on measuring to see if a shim is required.