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Clutch disengagement sanity check

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Old 07-26-2014, 06:29 PM
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Default Clutch disengagement sanity check

I have a 5.3 with an F-body T56 in a 65 Mustang

The tranny setup was purchased used and has a Spec stage 3 clutch that appeared to have minimal use.

Stock slave cylinder with remote bleeder

Mcleod hydraulic conversion for said 65 Mustang

Driveline was installed in the car and after bleeding the clutch, I had a solid pedal. The problem was pushing the clutch in wouldnt allow to get into gear easily, nor could I roll the car with the clutch pedal in.

With the line disconnected, the pedal is rock solid. The firewall flexes before the pedal moves. I can rule out air in the master or a bad master.

After a few hours of reading, I had convinced myself that it was a simple shim issue. I pull the tranny back out and measure. Per Tick's sticky, dimenation A and B were the same. (Yes spring was out and I cracked the bleeder to ensure full slave compression) Now Im real confused as this should result in a clutch that disengages but slips under power.

The bolt heads are nowhere near the clutch disc and I ran the disc on my lathe to look for any warping. It runs straight.

Could it simply be a bad slave cylinder? I can hear it working against the clutch fingers but its just not releasing.


Logic tells me to remove the shim that is present to gain the proper working gap for the throwout bearing. Any thoughts or words of wisdom before I put this thing back together? FWIW, I havent attemped to drive it with the clutch situation like this.
Old 07-27-2014, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jon volk
I have a 5.3 with an F-body T56 in a 65 Mustang The tranny setup was purchased used and has a Spec stage 3 clutch that appeared to have minimal use. Stock slave cylinder with remote bleeder Mcleod hydraulic conversion for said 65 Mustang Driveline was installed in the car and after bleeding the clutch, I had a solid pedal. The problem was pushing the clutch in wouldnt allow to get into gear easily, nor could I roll the car with the clutch pedal in. With the line disconnected, the pedal is rock solid. The firewall flexes before the pedal moves. I can rule out air in the master or a bad master. After a few hours of reading, I had convinced myself that it was a simple shim issue. I pull the tranny back out and measure. Per Tick's sticky, dimenation A and B were the same. (Yes spring was out and I cracked the bleeder to ensure full slave compression) Now Im real confused as this should result in a clutch that disengages but slips under power. The bolt heads are nowhere near the clutch disc and I ran the disc on my lathe to look for any warping. It runs straight. Could it simply be a bad slave cylinder? I can hear it working against the clutch fingers but its just not releasing. Logic tells me to remove the shim that is present to gain the proper working gap for the throwout bearing. Any thoughts or words of wisdom before I put this thing back together? FWIW, I havent attemped to drive it with the clutch situation like this.

I'm having similar issues. If your measurements "a" and "b" are the same with a shim installed I would pull the shim out to give you more of an air gap. That may be why you are not able to disengage (constant pressure on the fins) just a thought.
Old 07-27-2014, 06:25 PM
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Update.

Pulled the shim out which brought the A-B dimension to around .160". Put the tranny back in, quickly bled the clutch and had immediate improvement. I could get the tranny into all forward gears and putting the clutch to the floor allowed me to roll the car with one foot hanging out the door.

With the car running it goes into first without grinding and the car does not roll. The clutch is engaging pretty much right off the floor, but it is managable. I have not driven it yet as I need to go to the parts store and pick up a gallon of tranny fluid. Reverse will only sometimes go in without grinding, but I suspect this is just a function of having no fluid in. I obviously havent driven the car but all this was just rolling it back and forth a few feet in my shop to verify function.

We will see how it drives. Hopefully it wont need to come back out for a small shim and it will just wear in.
Old 07-28-2014, 10:28 AM
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If it's engaging right off the floor you either still have air in the system or you need to adjust the master cylinder to allow for more throw/travel.

Let us know how things progress after you've done that.
Old 08-05-2014, 08:03 AM
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Not trying to highjack your thread but im having the same problem with my TR6060.
Im not sure if I should remove the thick plate/shim from underneath of the slave cylinder to give me more of a gap.
Old 08-05-2014, 08:19 AM
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Removing the shim seemed to get my setup functioning. Once I filled the transmission and put a few mile on it, it was working and shifting fine. WOT shifts were not an issue either. Traction, however, was

I did end up ordering a Tick Master Cylinder though. I prefer a harder pedal with a narrow engagement window.
Old 08-05-2014, 08:31 AM
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Great to hear Jon!
Im just not sure if the thick plate underneath of the slave cylinder is a shim or if its part of the slave cylinder.
But im gonna give a try this weekend anyway.
Old 08-05-2014, 08:49 AM
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So did you order the tick after the problem was fixed or could you slave of been part of the problem and the new tick slave fixed it?
Old 08-05-2014, 08:51 AM
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Because I am having the same issues. McLeod conversion kit. Ls2 t56 in a 2000 mustang. Have all tore apart right now. Can't find anything wrong tho
Old 08-07-2014, 02:16 PM
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I also removed the shim from behind the slave cylinder and my clutch is working perfect now!!
Old 08-07-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jlew0006
So did you order the tick after the problem was fixed or could you slave of been part of the problem and the new tick slave fixed it?
I got it functioning with the McLeod/Wilwood cylinder. I swapped to the Tick for a better/shorter pedeal feel.

I have not changed the slave at all throughout this. All I did to get it functioning was to remove the shim and bring the A-B dimension into spec.
Old 08-07-2014, 07:14 PM
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I should also add that the Tick master cylinder is fantastic. Exactly the pedal feel that I was looking for. It's not all hype!
Old 08-08-2014, 10:58 AM
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Hype is for the birds, we're about performance! Thanks for the kind words!



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