Clutch disengagement sanity check
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Clutch disengagement sanity check
I have a 5.3 with an F-body T56 in a 65 Mustang
The tranny setup was purchased used and has a Spec stage 3 clutch that appeared to have minimal use.
Stock slave cylinder with remote bleeder
Mcleod hydraulic conversion for said 65 Mustang
Driveline was installed in the car and after bleeding the clutch, I had a solid pedal. The problem was pushing the clutch in wouldnt allow to get into gear easily, nor could I roll the car with the clutch pedal in.
With the line disconnected, the pedal is rock solid. The firewall flexes before the pedal moves. I can rule out air in the master or a bad master.
After a few hours of reading, I had convinced myself that it was a simple shim issue. I pull the tranny back out and measure. Per Tick's sticky, dimenation A and B were the same. (Yes spring was out and I cracked the bleeder to ensure full slave compression) Now Im real confused as this should result in a clutch that disengages but slips under power.
The bolt heads are nowhere near the clutch disc and I ran the disc on my lathe to look for any warping. It runs straight.
Could it simply be a bad slave cylinder? I can hear it working against the clutch fingers but its just not releasing.
Logic tells me to remove the shim that is present to gain the proper working gap for the throwout bearing. Any thoughts or words of wisdom before I put this thing back together? FWIW, I havent attemped to drive it with the clutch situation like this.
The tranny setup was purchased used and has a Spec stage 3 clutch that appeared to have minimal use.
Stock slave cylinder with remote bleeder
Mcleod hydraulic conversion for said 65 Mustang
Driveline was installed in the car and after bleeding the clutch, I had a solid pedal. The problem was pushing the clutch in wouldnt allow to get into gear easily, nor could I roll the car with the clutch pedal in.
With the line disconnected, the pedal is rock solid. The firewall flexes before the pedal moves. I can rule out air in the master or a bad master.
After a few hours of reading, I had convinced myself that it was a simple shim issue. I pull the tranny back out and measure. Per Tick's sticky, dimenation A and B were the same. (Yes spring was out and I cracked the bleeder to ensure full slave compression) Now Im real confused as this should result in a clutch that disengages but slips under power.
The bolt heads are nowhere near the clutch disc and I ran the disc on my lathe to look for any warping. It runs straight.
Could it simply be a bad slave cylinder? I can hear it working against the clutch fingers but its just not releasing.
Logic tells me to remove the shim that is present to gain the proper working gap for the throwout bearing. Any thoughts or words of wisdom before I put this thing back together? FWIW, I havent attemped to drive it with the clutch situation like this.
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I have a 5.3 with an F-body T56 in a 65 Mustang The tranny setup was purchased used and has a Spec stage 3 clutch that appeared to have minimal use. Stock slave cylinder with remote bleeder Mcleod hydraulic conversion for said 65 Mustang Driveline was installed in the car and after bleeding the clutch, I had a solid pedal. The problem was pushing the clutch in wouldnt allow to get into gear easily, nor could I roll the car with the clutch pedal in. With the line disconnected, the pedal is rock solid. The firewall flexes before the pedal moves. I can rule out air in the master or a bad master. After a few hours of reading, I had convinced myself that it was a simple shim issue. I pull the tranny back out and measure. Per Tick's sticky, dimenation A and B were the same. (Yes spring was out and I cracked the bleeder to ensure full slave compression) Now Im real confused as this should result in a clutch that disengages but slips under power. The bolt heads are nowhere near the clutch disc and I ran the disc on my lathe to look for any warping. It runs straight. Could it simply be a bad slave cylinder? I can hear it working against the clutch fingers but its just not releasing. Logic tells me to remove the shim that is present to gain the proper working gap for the throwout bearing. Any thoughts or words of wisdom before I put this thing back together? FWIW, I havent attemped to drive it with the clutch situation like this.
I'm having similar issues. If your measurements "a" and "b" are the same with a shim installed I would pull the shim out to give you more of an air gap. That may be why you are not able to disengage (constant pressure on the fins) just a thought.
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Update.
Pulled the shim out which brought the A-B dimension to around .160". Put the tranny back in, quickly bled the clutch and had immediate improvement. I could get the tranny into all forward gears and putting the clutch to the floor allowed me to roll the car with one foot hanging out the door.
With the car running it goes into first without grinding and the car does not roll. The clutch is engaging pretty much right off the floor, but it is managable. I have not driven it yet as I need to go to the parts store and pick up a gallon of tranny fluid. Reverse will only sometimes go in without grinding, but I suspect this is just a function of having no fluid in. I obviously havent driven the car but all this was just rolling it back and forth a few feet in my shop to verify function.
We will see how it drives. Hopefully it wont need to come back out for a small shim and it will just wear in.
Pulled the shim out which brought the A-B dimension to around .160". Put the tranny back in, quickly bled the clutch and had immediate improvement. I could get the tranny into all forward gears and putting the clutch to the floor allowed me to roll the car with one foot hanging out the door.
With the car running it goes into first without grinding and the car does not roll. The clutch is engaging pretty much right off the floor, but it is managable. I have not driven it yet as I need to go to the parts store and pick up a gallon of tranny fluid. Reverse will only sometimes go in without grinding, but I suspect this is just a function of having no fluid in. I obviously havent driven the car but all this was just rolling it back and forth a few feet in my shop to verify function.
We will see how it drives. Hopefully it wont need to come back out for a small shim and it will just wear in.
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Not trying to highjack your thread but im having the same problem with my TR6060.
Im not sure if I should remove the thick plate/shim from underneath of the slave cylinder to give me more of a gap.
Im not sure if I should remove the thick plate/shim from underneath of the slave cylinder to give me more of a gap.
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Removing the shim seemed to get my setup functioning. Once I filled the transmission and put a few mile on it, it was working and shifting fine. WOT shifts were not an issue either. Traction, however, was
I did end up ordering a Tick Master Cylinder though. I prefer a harder pedal with a narrow engagement window.
I did end up ordering a Tick Master Cylinder though. I prefer a harder pedal with a narrow engagement window.
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I have not changed the slave at all throughout this. All I did to get it functioning was to remove the shim and bring the A-B dimension into spec.