trouble going into gears
#1
trouble going into gears
I test drove a car that I am interested in buying the other day and when I try to shift into 2nd gear, eventually it goes into gear but it always feels "locked" out the first try...It does not grind. I noticed this issue a few times when I tried to put it in 1st gear too. I was not going fast when this issue happens. Just driving normal. It shifts into the other gears fine though.
I'm not sure if the clutch needs bled? Possibly a new clutch? new synco?
Could it be possible that the issue is caused by the "ship shift"? if so, how can I tell?
There is 94k on the car.
I also noticed that I had to let the clutch out about 80% before it would grab & start to take off from a stop.
I'm not sure if the clutch needs bled? Possibly a new clutch? new synco?
Could it be possible that the issue is caused by the "ship shift"? if so, how can I tell?
There is 94k on the car.
I also noticed that I had to let the clutch out about 80% before it would grab & start to take off from a stop.
Last edited by 30th t/a; 08-23-2014 at 10:04 AM.
#4
Hope this helps.
Jon
#5
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Gears shifting well with engine off and poorly with engine running is the classic clutch end of life
#6
OP
from this side of the internet it sounds like 1 of 2 things
1. clutch hydraulics need bleeding or are failing (MC and or slave)
2. clutch is done
you can easily check if there is a disengagement (clutch dragging) issue by jacking up rear of car, start motor, put clutch pedal all the way down while in any gear....do the tires rotate or are they stopped???....obviously the tires should not rotate with clutch depressed while in gear.
if clutch hydraulic fluid is black..it needs changing/flush/bleed but if the MC or slave is bad you need to replace that portion of hydraulic system.
If clutch is unknown mileage....you may be better off replacing and at very least flushing hydraulics...if they are in good shape.
you have what sounds like clutch drag.... This will cause hard shifts. just need to confirm if it is hydraulics or clutch itself
from this side of the internet it sounds like 1 of 2 things
1. clutch hydraulics need bleeding or are failing (MC and or slave)
2. clutch is done
you can easily check if there is a disengagement (clutch dragging) issue by jacking up rear of car, start motor, put clutch pedal all the way down while in any gear....do the tires rotate or are they stopped???....obviously the tires should not rotate with clutch depressed while in gear.
if clutch hydraulic fluid is black..it needs changing/flush/bleed but if the MC or slave is bad you need to replace that portion of hydraulic system.
If clutch is unknown mileage....you may be better off replacing and at very least flushing hydraulics...if they are in good shape.
you have what sounds like clutch drag.... This will cause hard shifts. just need to confirm if it is hydraulics or clutch itself
#7
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oP, since you are looking to buy this car, you can likely use this as a negotiating point. You'll either buy the car knowing it needs a clutch - or at least clutch work - or you can demand the clutch get replaced as part of the purchase. Or you can walk away and find a different car to buy.
About 18 months ago, I went through all the stuff on hydraulics, and it helped at first, but only stalled the inevitable. At 94K, if it's the original clutch, it did ok, and it needs a new one. If this is like the third clutch, the car might have been driven hard.
Good news is, since you haven't bought the car, you can decide if you want to deal with it or not
About 18 months ago, I went through all the stuff on hydraulics, and it helped at first, but only stalled the inevitable. At 94K, if it's the original clutch, it did ok, and it needs a new one. If this is like the third clutch, the car might have been driven hard.
Good news is, since you haven't bought the car, you can decide if you want to deal with it or not