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Let's talk about lightweight clutch/Flywheel combo's

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Old 11-24-2015, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by weedburner
If you are 10.9 @ 129, i doubt that clutch is slipping enough for a good 60'.
Not bad for a bolt on LS6 eh?
Old 11-24-2015, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I made 16 or 18 passes last time at the track. I hot lapped the **** out of the car. Heat is not a issue......and I've had no issues loading in on the trailer when used.

If you burn up a clutch loading the car on a trailer you're a idiot.....just that simple.
I absolutely agree that heat is a non issue with set ups that are installed and driven correctly.
What is your clutch/flywheel and set up again?
I'd really like to know why companies don't push the use of aluminum flywheels and lighter assemblies over the steel?? Maybe because of potential failure rates and warranties? On OEM applications a heavier set up would provide more of a "buffer" for people that don't know how to drive.
Old 11-24-2015, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by weedburner
If you are 10.9 @ 129, i doubt that clutch is slipping enough for a good 60'.
I still disagree, if he's able hook and put the power down right away and be in the powerband then there is no benefit in slipping the clutch. Even if he did slip it in the first 60' it would only be for
Old 11-24-2015, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
Good info Hio. I saw a trailer that comes with a wench the other day. I can post the link if anyone needs it.
I'll give ya more good info.

A 10" clutch would have a area of 31.1"

My titon triple has a area of 17.2......but since there are 3 discs that jumps to 51.8.

So for those thermal dynamic professors in here which one has more area to disipated the heat you are talking about?
Originally Posted by weedburner
If you are 10.9 @ 129, i doubt that clutch is slipping enough for a good 60'.
I can slip it or drop it and spin the tires. It's a m6 car on a dr so traction really is hit or miss.
Originally Posted by North*power
I absolutely agree that heat is a non issue with set ups that are installed and driven correctly.
What is your clutch/flywheel and set up again?
I'd really like to know why companies don't push the use of aluminum flywheels and lighter assemblies over the steel?? Maybe because of potential failure rates and warranties? On OEM applications a heavier set up would provide more of a "buffer" for people that don't know how to drive.
Mine is a tilton triple disc on a button with a auto flexplate. I use a qtr master tri lite hydraulic release bearing.
Originally Posted by North*power
I still disagree, if he's able hook and put the power down right away and be in the powerband then there is no benefit in slipping the clutch. Even if he did slip it in the first 60' it would only be for
I'd need a slick to come off the clutch faster than i am. It modulates nicely under power. You gotta remember these are not some junk *** no tq having 4/6 cylinder engine. These things have a 50lb crank and 8 cylinders. No need to slip it like you think.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by weedburner
The lightest clutch assy's generally won't have enough thermal capacity to slip for very long at WOT, so they are not going to be a good choice if quick 60's are your goal. With a properly slipped clutch of sufficient capacity, you’ll get your best launch while putting no more stress on your drivetrain than if you were roll racing.
OK, but world class 60 foots and drag racing is NOT what EVERYONE on this thread is concerned about.

Some (like Jim M. above and myself) are more concerned about 'streetability' in stop and go traffic jams, and autocross and road course usability.

My car will NEVER EVER see a launch pad/drag strip again, as long as I own it.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I'll give ya more good info.
I can slip it or drop it and spin the tires. It's a m6 car on a dr so traction really is hit or miss.

I'd need a slick to come off the clutch faster than i am. It modulates nicely under power. You gotta remember these are not some junk *** no tq having 4/6 cylinder engine. These things have a 50lb crank and 8 cylinders. No need to slip it like you think.
No need for a slick, if it's the typical M/T 275 DR, those are good for 1.2 60's on a decent track. Your engine does not have enough power to get them spinning on it's own, it gets help in the form of a quick discharge of stored inertia energy that happens before the chassis has a chance to transfer weight. That extra energy comes from the rotating assy losing rpm just after you release the clutch. If the clutch were released at a rate that allowed your WOT engine to maintain your launch rpm, there would be no inertia energy discharge and you could likely get 1.4 or better 60's. Not sure your clutch has enough capacity to handle that though.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I'll give ya more good info.

A 10" clutch would have a area of 31.1"

My titon triple has a area of 17.2......but since there are 3 discs that jumps to 51.8.

So for those thermal dynamic professors in here which one has more area to disipated the heat you are talking about?
Friction surface area has little to do with a clutch's thermal capacity.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:22 PM
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My clutch is rated for 800hp.


I don't have enough power to spin a dr?? What ****** planet are you on? It must have 2 or 3 times the gravity of earth.

The 60' on the run in the sig was a 1.52......not really leaving at full steam either. I don't have a 2step so there is room for improvement.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
OK, but world class 60 foots and drag racing is NOT what EVERYONE on this thread is concerned about.

Some (like Jim M. above and myself) are more concerned about 'streetability' in stop and go traffic jams, and autocross and road course usability.

My car will NEVER EVER see a launch pad/drag strip again, as long as I own it.
We all make compromises based on the what we are trying to achieve. Just pointing out that the lightest clutch assy isn't always the best choice.
Old 11-24-2015, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
My clutch is rated for 800hp.
Your clutch rating of 800hp is a loose reference to it's torque holding capacity, not it's ability to dissipate 800hp worth power if slipped.

Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I don't have enough power to spin a dr?? What ****** planet are you on? It must have 2 or 3 times the gravity of earth.
Can you roll across a sticky starting line at 4500-5000rpm in 1st gear, nail the throttle without touching the clutch, and still break those radials loose? A pair of 275's can put down over 8000lbs of thrust on a good track, no way you are anywhere near that without help from a flywheel.

Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The 60' on the run in the sig was a 1.52......not really leaving at full steam either. I don't have a 2step so there is room for improvement.
You have potential to shave .1+ off that 60' if your clutch could take the added heat. If you have an rpm graph of a good run, i could likely show you where that potential is hidden.
Old 11-24-2015, 08:59 PM
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I have never rolled across a launch pad and then nailed it.......what you're saying makes no sense. The whole issue of launching is controling the shock of the tires. On top of that not every track is prepped like a outlaw drag radial track is.

Put a heavy clutch in your car if you think it's so great. I'll keep doin what I've been doin and drive this bolt on ls6 a little further into the 10s.
Old 11-24-2015, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
Good info Hio. I saw a trailer that comes with a wench the other day. I can post the link if anyone needs it.
How old was she? Is that even legal?
Old 11-25-2015, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by gsteele
How old was she? Is that even legal?
Lol. Didn't think anyone saw that
Old 11-25-2015, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by North*power
I still disagree, if he's able hook and put the power down right away and be in the powerband then there is no benefit in slipping the clutch. Even if he did slip it in the first 60' it would only be for
That's the problem...it isn't possible for him to hook and be in the powerband at the same time until up around .7 sec or so into his run.
Old 11-25-2015, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by weedburner
That's the problem...it isn't possible for him to hook and be in the powerband at the same time until up around .7 sec or so into his run.
So if he was using a heavier clutch he would net a better 60ft and lower ET?
Old 11-25-2015, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by scotty2000ss
So if he was using a heavier clutch he would net a better 60ft and lower ET?
Heavier clutch launched the same way will likely get him a slower 60ft and slower et. What you want is a clutch assy that has just enough capacity to tolerate the amount of slipping required to achieve maintaining launch rpm, until the car is going fast enough to match that rpm at the point of clutch lockup. For a really good 60', that launch rpm will need to be up around 5500rpm or more. That's about a second of full throttle clutch slip.
Old 11-25-2015, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by weedburner
Heavier clutch launched the same way will likely get him a slower 60ft and slower et. What you want is a clutch assy that has just enough capacity to tolerate the amount of slipping required to achieve maintaining launch rpm, until the car is going fast enough to match that rpm at the point of clutch lockup. For a really good 60', that launch rpm will need to be up around 5500rpm or more. That's about a second of full throttle clutch slip.
Gotcha. What clutch do you recommend?
Old 11-25-2015, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by weedburner
That's the problem...it isn't possible for him to hook and be in the powerband at the same time until up around .7 sec or so into his run.
Yup...plenty of et left in it. But it's not because of the clutch. Its because of traction.
Originally Posted by weedburner
Heavier clutch launched the same way will likely get him a slower 60ft and slower et. What you want is a clutch assy that has just enough capacity to tolerate the amount of slipping required to achieve maintaining launch rpm, until the car is going fast enough to match that rpm at the point of clutch lockup. For a really good 60', that launch rpm will need to be up around 5500rpm or more. That's about a second of full throttle clutch slip.
Are you really gonna recommend a street car a slipper style clutch??....lol....ok
Old 11-25-2015, 10:12 PM
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I could break a set of 275's loose everytime i dropped the clutch in my car. Even on a well prepped track. m6 and drag radials is a very different animal than m6 and bias ply's. You don't have to slip the clutch at the launch, i dont(not you scotty2000ss you need to slip yours cause of rear). When i go to the drag strip i go wot on the 2 step and drop the clutch. I use wheel speed with the bias ply's to make a good 60ft.
Old 11-26-2015, 11:44 AM
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I deduct from this thread that weeburner does not race, isn't fast, and has nothing but theories.

I also deduct from this thread that the guys with the lighter clutch/flywheel setups are the fast guys in this thread.

I also deduct that some people have made up their mind, and will argue even though they have neither.

I was cutting 1.5-6 sixtys in my vette with a tex, and M/T drag radials ad could either bog it or roast them off the line depending on how bad of a brain fart I was having. Meaning that most of this threads argument is unlreliable at best.

Hio pointed out some good numbers on area...but some people just don't want to learn anything. Before reading what he posted, I didn't even snap to that. THanks.


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