bad6as

iTrader: (17)

im a 1st timer to bleeding fluids.
can the slave only be bleed when the trans is seperated from the bell housing?

is there an online how to?

roadrash9r

iTrader: (2)

1st bleed the system by pumping the pedal 5 times. let the pedal come to the top. (Now the wierd part but was told to do it this way by pete at textralia.) Now open the bleeder port on the slave and have your buddy push the pedal slowly to the floor. right when you reach the floor close the bleeder.

2nd traditional method. have your buddy pump the pedal 5 times and on the 5th time hold the pedal to the floor. Now crack the bleeder slowly or you will spray fluid everywhere. Leave it fully open for 2 secs or until you hear the slave stop getting pushed back.

3d repeat steps 1 and 2 alternating each time until you have gone through a large bottle of brake fluid. Remember to keep an eye on the resevoir. At first you may not see a large loss in the resevoir, but as you get the air out it will increase.

4th button up the bottom of the car. now take the mity vac and put it to 10" of vacume and work the 1st quarter of the pedals travel until the bubbles go away then to 3/4rs of the travel, then full travel. once its hard to get any more air bubbles out. Keep an eye on the fluid level it will slowly go into the mity vac. Now do the same thing at 15" you may notice no pedal pressure. thats normal. if you feel any resistance its most likely an air bubble. now go to 20-24" and repeat you will have no pedal resistance. like before if you feel resistance its air, work it out.

5th now release the pressure with the mity vac trigger. keep the tube in the hole. now pump the pedal 40 times. alternating between full strokes and 1/4 3/4. pedal should come right back. now check the fluid level again. and now repeat steps 4 and 5 until air is hard to get out of it.

6 take it for a ride. get it hot. pump the clutch. check your engagment.(mine was better after the first time but not great.) now go back and do steps 4 and 5 again and repeat. I got alot more air. take it for a ride and do it again this sounds repetitive but after each time mine got better and better. I probably have 4 hours mity vacing and I have only tiny bubbles almost hard to see. and I will be mity vacing again tommorow. hope this helps. You need to bleed the system with the slave first. if you dont you might have an airpocket so big that it blocks the flow to the mity vac due to its compression during the pedal pushs.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

so bleed it when its all back togeather or be for i mate teh tarns and bell housing

roadrash9r

iTrader: (2)

all back together you cant bleed it seperate. You can bench leed the master but I havent seen anything about the slave. What I wrote is what I did and it takes time and you will see alot of air. so much so that you think there has to be a leak.

02WS6Bird

iTrader: (2)

so wait i missed something. You do bleed the clutch lines w/ brake fluid then? i haven't looked into the hydraulic clutches much.

Thanks agian
Adam

Mike K.

It is brake fluid just make sure you get DOT4 or higher.

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

I think for the Fbods you can use either DOT 3 or 4, mineral not synthetic, but I'm pretty certain you can NOT use DOT 5.

Rothman

iTrader: (4)

check the link for bleed valve location

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/423268-bleed-valve.html

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

i got a big bottle of the Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 thats synthetic, is that ok

Mike K.

yeah I use dot 4 synthetic and have had no problems hydralic wise, its the rest of the car thats falling apart. I say go higher that way your boil temp goes up.