onebad82z

iTrader: (1)

am swapping a '99 LS1 T56 into my '82 which is a factory ST10 car.I am using the McCleod #8-207 adapter plate and the throwout bearing retainer it is supplied with along with a Lakewood steel #15015 scattershield.My first dilemna is If I try to wiggle the input shaft of the trans on the floor (with no bell or adapter plate) there is some play there back and forth.Seems to be usual from my experiences with trannys over the years.The problem is when I bolt the McCleod adapter and throwout bearing retainer on the tranny and try to wiggle the input shaft back and forth while rotating it,the input shaft rubs the inside of the throwout bearing retainer.It is not enough to prevent it from rotating,but it does rub.I plan to pull the bellhousing off the car and torque it all (adapter to bell and trans to adapter) together on the floor and see if the interference still exists.My main question is if it does,do I grind the input shaft splines OR hone out the supplied bearing retainer????The only area the rubs is the splines,the rest of the input shaft necks down to a smaller diameter and leaves ample clearance.I plan to measure the input shaft movement without adapter with a dial indicator and then with the whole assembly (adapter to bell and trans to adapter) torqued together to give me an actual number I have to clearance for.So what I need to know is,what is the correct way to clearance these parts?

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

As-installed the shaft should center itself and not take all the play you see in its rotation. That is only true if your pilot is correct and you have dialed-in the bell location( required with the after-market bell). If that is done& correct, you should be ok. It is NEVER ok to machine the skin of a peened,hardened and tempered part like the input shaft.

onebad82z

iTrader: (1)

I do have a roller pilot bearing with a little over 7k miles on it and the bell was indexed to the crank when it was all put together.It was together with my old ST10 trans for those miles and not a single problem.It seems to be the majority vote to leave it alone and once all bolted together the pilot will center it up where it needs to be.I just wanted to be sure to check everything I could since this is not a direct swap and alot of aftermarket parts are involved to get this accomplished.Thanks calhoon.Much appreciation!

Mike44138

iTrader: (3)

I'm having the same problem with my car right now. I had the shop shim the input shaft to specs and it was like night and day. Should have it back together tomorrow and I'll let you know about my luck with it. I'd say if you have any wiggle or play in the input shaft have a shop (or do it yourself) ship it as the spec is something like .000-.002" of endplay. Here's my experience so far with some pics:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/433199-input-shaft-rubbing-inside-slave-cylinder.html