problem with bleeding clutch fluid!!!
11-03-2006, 08:33 PM
#1
problem with bleeding clutch fluid!!! hey, i bought a new master cylinder, and i know how to take it off etc etc but i have no clue how to bleed the damn thing! do i need any special tools or anything? and where IS the bleedeer valve? i checked my chilton manual but it is really vague. 
sorry im a noob at this, so any help is greatly appreciated...
sorry im a noob at this, so any help is greatly appreciated... 
11-03-2006, 09:12 PM
#2
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Look above the Braided clutch line going into the bellhousing. -It's slightly recessed, so you'll have to feel for it. Above it there is a 11mm head for the bleeder. You can squeaze a 3/8" ratchet and a shallow 11mm socket in there.
It's the same as bleeding the brakes. Have a buddy up top. Take the black boot out of the reservoir and fill it up, replace the cover. Check it every two or three pumps. Don't get the brake fluid on the paint. It will eat the paint off of whatever it lands on. Push pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, bring pedal back up. Repeat as necissary. It will save some hassle to bench bleed the master before you install it. If you don't, you will push air into your Slave, and make this a much more complicated job than it has to be. There is a quick disconnect on the slave. You can push the plastic ring in with two small screwdrivers. WATCH OUT FOR THE HOT EXH! I burnt the **** out of my arm doing this! Darn hot primaries.
If you decide to bench bleed it, take the braided line off. and you mind aswell perform the drill mod while you are in there. Check my link in sig. I have a writeup for the drill mod and master replacement on page 2. (my cardomain site)
This is a pic of the GM disconnect too, you don't NEED it, but I got it w/ my transmission. (T56R rocks!)
It's the same as bleeding the brakes. Have a buddy up top. Take the black boot out of the reservoir and fill it up, replace the cover. Check it every two or three pumps. Don't get the brake fluid on the paint. It will eat the paint off of whatever it lands on. Push pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, bring pedal back up. Repeat as necissary. It will save some hassle to bench bleed the master before you install it. If you don't, you will push air into your Slave, and make this a much more complicated job than it has to be. There is a quick disconnect on the slave. You can push the plastic ring in with two small screwdrivers. WATCH OUT FOR THE HOT EXH! I burnt the **** out of my arm doing this! Darn hot primaries.
If you decide to bench bleed it, take the braided line off. and you mind aswell perform the drill mod while you are in there. Check my link in sig. I have a writeup for the drill mod and master replacement on page 2. (my cardomain site)
This is a pic of the GM disconnect too, you don't NEED it, but I got it w/ my transmission. (T56R rocks!)
Last edited by bayer-z28; 11-03-2006 at 09:33 PM.
