Help me finish my T56 rebuild. Stuck. :(
06-05-2007, 05:36 PM
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Help me finish my T56 rebuild. Stuck. :( I am stuck on my t56 rebuild. I bought this t56 taken apart and so do not have any memory or pics to reference too. So far I have replaced gears 1,2,3,4,6, all the synco hubs, and installed a premium master rebuild kit from eBay with all the bearings, etc. Anyway, I am stuck on how the reverse shift rail installs. Here are some pics. I do not understand the manual at this point. Here is were I am at now. Any suggestions on what I need to do next?
06-05-2007, 07:54 PM
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That's a tricky part of the rebuild process, getting the case on without pushing the shiftrail out of alignment. I'll try to look up the pics I used when I did my rebuild.
06-05-2007, 08:51 PM
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That is where I was stumped. Those two levers with the slots in them (protruding from the reverse shift rail) line up with each other and slide on the circular interlock right above the 3-4 fork.
In this picture I point out where the two guide bolts will line up when the case is on. Far left is where one guide bolt inserts into that slot. Far right is where other guide bolt slides in to right side of shift interlock (there is a slot for it). Arrow in middle shows where shift rail levers line up and slide onto shift interlock. It may take a small amount of force to slide those two levers on to the shift interlock.
Hope this helps:
EDIT: I meant to put alignment bolts, not guide bolts, you get the idea
In this picture I point out where the two guide bolts will line up when the case is on. Far left is where one guide bolt inserts into that slot. Far right is where other guide bolt slides in to right side of shift interlock (there is a slot for it). Arrow in middle shows where shift rail levers line up and slide onto shift interlock. It may take a small amount of force to slide those two levers on to the shift interlock.
Hope this helps:
EDIT: I meant to put alignment bolts, not guide bolts, you get the idea
Last edited by Fire-formula 93; 06-06-2007 at 10:15 AM.
06-07-2007, 06:03 AM
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Thanks for the post guys. That helps alot.
My 1/2 and 3/4 fork are extremely difficult to move by hand. I can get the sycho hubs to engage the blocker rings but man is it tough. Is that normal?
My 1/2 and 3/4 fork are extremely difficult to move by hand. I can get the sycho hubs to engage the blocker rings but man is it tough. Is that normal?
06-08-2007, 05:19 AM
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Anyone know about my last question? I am going to bolt it all together today. I would hate to have it screwed up. It would just seem logical that the syco rings should move freely to engage the blocker rings. I have to really force them. From all that I have seen on the net it looks like I need to be in neutral when I side the casing on. I also hear that it is common for it to engage fourth while doing so. If this is so then it seems that my synco hubs should move more freely.
On a side note, I received a RAM Aluminum flywheel. Man, is it sweet. I am going to weigh it and take pics of the offset weights they installed. It is suppose to be ready to bolt on. Along with the Mccleod performance single disc I have I am hoping it will be a great setup.
On a side note, I received a RAM Aluminum flywheel. Man, is it sweet. I am going to weigh it and take pics of the offset weights they installed. It is suppose to be ready to bolt on. Along with the Mccleod performance single disc I have I am hoping it will be a great setup.
06-08-2007, 10:19 PM
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yea trans should be in neutral when you slide it on...if it gets into gear it will screw up your guide bolt from tighten in straight (they are the torx bolts).
When you slide the case on tighten the 5-6 shift rail with the torx bolt first, then lift up the 5-6 shift rail slightly to get the 1-2 3-4 shift rail bolt in if it isn't already lined up straight.
When you slide the case on tighten the 5-6 shift rail with the torx bolt first, then lift up the 5-6 shift rail slightly to get the 1-2 3-4 shift rail bolt in if it isn't already lined up straight.
