Gary Z

I am in the disassembly stage of my first T56 rebuild. I have everything out of the extension case and am preparing to remove the main case. My first question concerns removal of the roll pin from the skip shift lever. The service manual (section 2-8-1) says this should be done immediately after removing the shift detent cover. This seems impossible because this roll pin is inside the case. Am I confused? My other question concerns removing the two torx shift-lever guide bolts. Others have recommended heating these bolts with a propane torch to ease removal but the service manual makes no mention of this. An impact wrench seems like the safest method to me. Any advice?

Thanks, Gary

10SecDreamer

iTrader: (7)

When ever I tapped in the roll pin with a punch it stayed in between offset lever and the plate. I think it is saying to remove the roll pin before you put it back together so you wont have to re align the guide bolts and do it over.

I toke off my guide bolts without heating it up. But it would have made it easier I guess, because when I broke the bolts loose I thought the T-40 socket snapped.

Gary Z

I have removed the offset lever roll pin. But my version of the manual also says to remove the skip-shift lever roll pin at this point. I think its a mistake.

My 1/2-inch Makita impact wrench can't budge them. Those little bolts are really tough.

10SecDreamer

iTrader: (7)

1/2-inch Makita impact, is that the cordless electric one? I guess your only other option is to use the torch and try it that way. They are pretty tough.

I would take a picture of the shift rail forks at the bottom whenever you take the main case off because the manual doesn't really illustrate how they go back together.

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

You can buy a propane torch at Lowes. I've gone through 6 T-40 bits just trying to get them off before I used a torch. I finally broke down and bought one and it basically turns whatever industrial locktite they used into a goo. It's pretty damn tough stuff! Concentrate the heat on the bolt, the aluminum casing does a fantastic job of absorbing the heat. Within a couple of minutes it'll be cool to the touch. You don't need to get the bolt red hot either. Heat it up in 30 sec intervals and check to see if it'll budge. I wouldn't think more than 3 or 4 heat cycles would be needed, but thats a case by case basis.

I knock the pin out into the transmission case (butts against the casing, doesn't fall out). When I pull the case off I hold the offset lever. There is a spherical ball that's spring loaded. MAKE SURE YOU HOLD ONTO THE OFFSET LEVER AS YOU PULL THE CASE or that little ball and spring are going to shoot out. Should be cake after that.

BTW isn't it amazing how these things are built?

ls1 joe

iTrader: (37)

Yeah some of the ones we build the torx bits come right off without the need of heating. Others take torching the crap out of them. We keep 20+ of those torx bits on hand since we break them quite often. Our snap on guys hates us since he warranties them Good luck and if you get stuck on something feel free to pm me with questions. I will help with what I can.

Amber

Gary Z

A propane torch was the answer. Less than 30 seconds was all that was needed but I had been too fearful of doing damage to apply that much heat. Thanks for the encouragement everyone.