Ordering new parts for the tranny rebuild tomarrow...
05-12-2008, 02:46 AM
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Ordering new parts for the tranny rebuild tomarrow... Well, I dont really know as much as Id like, but I've got the transmission completely apart now, and I figure now is as good of time as any to learn. ive never even seen the inside of a T-56 before this, but ive got the service manual printed out, and some good tools. or is that good friends? maybe both.
anyhow, I'm determined to learn, so does anyone have any leads on some good information/videos/websites/books other than the service manual that I could go through to get a better grasp on rebuilding one of these? im still a little concerned about whether or not im going to have to shim it, since when I pulled the trans apart, it had RTV that was allowed to set, then compressed to form a gasket. kinda hard to set endplay when you allow the RTV to set then compress it, so I gotta plan on applying the RTV then torquing it down to the specified setting right away and letting the trans push out what it doesnt need.
from what I can figure im going to replace all of the synchros, steel 3-4 shift fork, bronze shift fork pads everywhere, carbon blocker rings, both the input and output shaft seal ( I figure why not while im in there, right?) a new snap ring kit, a new 5-6 fork, and billet 3-4 keys.
anyhow, I'm determined to learn, so does anyone have any leads on some good information/videos/websites/books other than the service manual that I could go through to get a better grasp on rebuilding one of these? im still a little concerned about whether or not im going to have to shim it, since when I pulled the trans apart, it had RTV that was allowed to set, then compressed to form a gasket. kinda hard to set endplay when you allow the RTV to set then compress it, so I gotta plan on applying the RTV then torquing it down to the specified setting right away and letting the trans push out what it doesnt need.
from what I can figure im going to replace all of the synchros, steel 3-4 shift fork, bronze shift fork pads everywhere, carbon blocker rings, both the input and output shaft seal ( I figure why not while im in there, right?) a new snap ring kit, a new 5-6 fork, and billet 3-4 keys.
05-12-2008, 01:04 PM
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well I have no problem snapping pictures but I am far, far from being the one who would be able to do a writeup and know what the f*&% Im talking about. as far as cost, i think the full monty is gonna run me around 800 bucks
Last edited by nine-eight; 05-12-2008 at 02:45 PM.
05-14-2008, 02:39 PM
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kinda hard to set endplay when you allow the RTV to set then compress it, so I gotta plan on applying the RTV then torquing it down to the specified setting right away and letting the trans push out what it doesnt need.
from what I can figure im going to replace all of the synchros, steel 3-4 shift fork, bronze shift fork pads everywhere, carbon blocker rings, both the input and output shaft seal ( I figure why not while im in there, right?) a new snap ring kit, a new 5-6 fork, and billet 3-4 keys.
from what I can figure im going to replace all of the synchros, steel 3-4 shift fork, bronze shift fork pads everywhere, carbon blocker rings, both the input and output shaft seal ( I figure why not while im in there, right?) a new snap ring kit, a new 5-6 fork, and billet 3-4 keys.
You could also do some billet keys (make sure to get the correct ones for 1-2; Z06 won't work in the F-body synchro; don't ask how I know.)
You're replacing all the synchros but are the teeth worn? If not, you may just need to do keys & springs on a given synchro. And check teeth on the gears.
Tip: I use a zip tie around the shift interlock (under the plate in the middle of the case) to retain the ball-bearing + spring. This keeps it in place while you set the main case onto the front plate. Learning the trans: I printed the manual and had already done a couple T5s. The rest is just practice makes perfect. Good luck!
05-15-2008, 01:02 AM
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wonderful! thanks Wrencher and JMD, anything I can find is a big help.
I wanted to clarify my concern on this. let me add that after further inspection, the fourth gear/input shaft is going to have to be replaced as well.
there are no bearing issues to speak of, But I do know that the new input shaf will have a new bearing pressed on so I will have to deal with endplay/preload.
when I pulled the trans apart, I noticed that there was a layer of RTV between the adaptor plate and main housing, as opposed to "just enough to fill the voids in the mating surface."--Meaning that someone had let the RTV set, and then finished compressing it so that it DID NOT squeeze out any extra, it just compressed what was there.
the reason this concerns me, is that since the adaptor plate and the main housing are what holds the two races and therefore the distance between the two sets preload, any "gap" created between the two by having a makeshift RTV gasket as mentioned above would make me beleive it would wreak havoc with my clearances. I have since been told to just apply a layer of anerobic permatex "right stuff," and then just torque it fully so that I have the sealant just "filling the voids." I hope that makes sense, I have a hard time explaining what I am picturing in my mind.
the slider on all the synchro assembly's have worn and rounded teeth. some not so much, but I figure while im in there I should do it right and replace anything questionable. I am sending some photos of the gear teeth on a few of em that dont look too bad to amber at sixspeedsinc.com, big props to her for taking the time to work with me and explain everything. she has been great and I highly reccomend their company.
thanks for the idea on the zip tie, I wish I wouldve thought of that before I tore it down. I just stuffed a rag behind the plate and then bolted it back down to hold the ball and spring in there before I removed the main housing. I may get back in there, and carefully zip-tie it like you mentioned. ive only toyed with a muncie four speed before this, so the t-56 is large and daunting. may the force be with me!
Your RTV doesn't need to set 24hrs. It needs to set 15min. It's not going to cause any problem if it sets for 1hr before you tighten the case bolts. If you have not damaged any bearings, you do not replace them per the B-W svc. manual. On a new-bearing rebuild, you can set endplay w/ no RTV, then worry about reassembly of the trans.
there are no bearing issues to speak of, But I do know that the new input shaf will have a new bearing pressed on so I will have to deal with endplay/preload.
when I pulled the trans apart, I noticed that there was a layer of RTV between the adaptor plate and main housing, as opposed to "just enough to fill the voids in the mating surface."--Meaning that someone had let the RTV set, and then finished compressing it so that it DID NOT squeeze out any extra, it just compressed what was there.
the reason this concerns me, is that since the adaptor plate and the main housing are what holds the two races and therefore the distance between the two sets preload, any "gap" created between the two by having a makeshift RTV gasket as mentioned above would make me beleive it would wreak havoc with my clearances. I have since been told to just apply a layer of anerobic permatex "right stuff," and then just torque it fully so that I have the sealant just "filling the voids." I hope that makes sense, I have a hard time explaining what I am picturing in my mind.
You could also do some billet keys (make sure to get the correct ones for 1-2; Z06 won't work in the F-body synchro; don't ask how I know.)
You're replacing all the synchros but are the teeth worn? If not, you may just need to do keys & springs on a given synchro. And check teeth on the gears.
Tip: I use a zip tie around the shift interlock (under the plate in the middle of the case) to retain the ball-bearing + spring. This keeps it in place while you set the main case onto the front plate. Learning the trans: I printed the manual and had already done a couple T5s. The rest is just practice makes perfect. Good luck!
You're replacing all the synchros but are the teeth worn? If not, you may just need to do keys & springs on a given synchro. And check teeth on the gears.
Tip: I use a zip tie around the shift interlock (under the plate in the middle of the case) to retain the ball-bearing + spring. This keeps it in place while you set the main case onto the front plate. Learning the trans: I printed the manual and had already done a couple T5s. The rest is just practice makes perfect. Good luck!
thanks for the idea on the zip tie, I wish I wouldve thought of that before I tore it down. I just stuffed a rag behind the plate and then bolted it back down to hold the ball and spring in there before I removed the main housing. I may get back in there, and carefully zip-tie it like you mentioned. ive only toyed with a muncie four speed before this, so the t-56 is large and daunting. may the force be with me!