T56 Rebuild "how to" write up
07-07-2009, 01:09 AM
#81
There was no mention about checking endplay in this write-up nor was there any solution proposed for the 'special' tool required to check the counter shaft endplay specifically.
It's been a few years since I rebuilt my T56, but I remember having to assemble the gear shafts and case WITHOUT the shift forks/rail assembly to properly check the endplay (this is covered in the Tremec rebuild manual...so please excuse my foggy memory).
Anyways, you will need a dial indicator of some sort (I have a magnetic base as shown in the photos below), a shim kit (I replaced the bearings/bearing races and the endplay DID change slightly...I ended up needing slightly thinner shims) and the counter shaft tool (a glorified threaded rod). I had a machinist at work make the tool for me with the drawing provided by Tremec for free...but he figured it shouldn't cost any more than $50 for a machine shop to make.
Onto a few pictures:
Countershaft Endplay Tool:
Tool threaded into counter shaft through housing. You 'tug' on this and set a dial indicator to the end to measure countershaft endplay.
Example of dial indicator use to check mainshaft endplay:
An alternative version of the makeshift gear puller:
Kudos to the original poster for creating this 'how-to'. I took many pictures when I rebuilt my transmission, but I've never had the ambition to produce a 'how-to' article. At any rate, I highly recommend this as a DIY project as it was interesting and, in my case, yielded a very satisfying result.
It's been a few years since I rebuilt my T56, but I remember having to assemble the gear shafts and case WITHOUT the shift forks/rail assembly to properly check the endplay (this is covered in the Tremec rebuild manual...so please excuse my foggy memory).
Anyways, you will need a dial indicator of some sort (I have a magnetic base as shown in the photos below), a shim kit (I replaced the bearings/bearing races and the endplay DID change slightly...I ended up needing slightly thinner shims) and the counter shaft tool (a glorified threaded rod). I had a machinist at work make the tool for me with the drawing provided by Tremec for free...but he figured it shouldn't cost any more than $50 for a machine shop to make.
Onto a few pictures:
Countershaft Endplay Tool:
Tool threaded into counter shaft through housing. You 'tug' on this and set a dial indicator to the end to measure countershaft endplay.
Example of dial indicator use to check mainshaft endplay:
An alternative version of the makeshift gear puller:
Kudos to the original poster for creating this 'how-to'. I took many pictures when I rebuilt my transmission, but I've never had the ambition to produce a 'how-to' article. At any rate, I highly recommend this as a DIY project as it was interesting and, in my case, yielded a very satisfying result.
07-07-2009, 03:31 PM
#83
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Great addition RestoRock89, How long of pullers are needed? I need to get a set before I start this project and was wondering if anyone could tell me how long the ones they used were. I see a set made by OTC that are 15.5 inches of reach for $$$. I would hate to fork out that much if they are still too short. It looks like the ones pictured by RestoRock89 are close to 20 inches long???
Also If I use a cheapo set and mod them like that, will they still be adequate for pulling everything or will I need several diff types or sizes? Someone wrote about having broken 2 pullers and having to cut the gear off the shaft. I don't want to invest in a cheap set of pullers if they will not be strong enough or fit the gears and bearings correctly. I have a pair of cheap pullers somewhere but the hooks on the ends are huge. Are there any clearance issues with the hooks on diff types of pullers???
Right now the pulling of the gears and bearings are my only concerns everything else looks straight forward, perhaps pulling is not as hard as I am thinking?
Also If I use a cheapo set and mod them like that, will they still be adequate for pulling everything or will I need several diff types or sizes? Someone wrote about having broken 2 pullers and having to cut the gear off the shaft. I don't want to invest in a cheap set of pullers if they will not be strong enough or fit the gears and bearings correctly. I have a pair of cheap pullers somewhere but the hooks on the ends are huge. Are there any clearance issues with the hooks on diff types of pullers???
Right now the pulling of the gears and bearings are my only concerns everything else looks straight forward, perhaps pulling is not as hard as I am thinking?
07-07-2009, 03:41 PM
#84
I made a custom puller aswell..took the $40 Craftsman set and bought 2 pieces of 1" X 1/8" steel from lowes.. they are 36" long if I remember right.. well I took them and cut them inhalf, then drilled holes in each end and made extentions for the puller.
This is what I was modeling mine off of..it's pretty much the same thing and worked perfect. I have roughly $55 and about an hour of time in making that tool.
This is what I was modeling mine off of..it's pretty much the same thing and worked perfect. I have roughly $55 and about an hour of time in making that tool.
07-08-2009, 07:52 AM
#85
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Thats good to know, now I will have to find those pullers I have and see about making the extenders. But now I am confused about what needs pulling and what comes off easily. I was thinking that each gear had to be pulled off. But on closer look at this guide it appears I only need pullers for the Synchro hubs? Can some one clarify what is pressed on the shafts and what is easy to slide off?
Will I need one of these separators / pullers?
Will I need one of these separators / pullers?
07-08-2009, 08:22 AM
#86
Those come in handy for the tight spots..I had to use them for them Gears right there, but everything else I was able to get with the Pullers I made.
Pretty much the Gears themselves will slide off, the Sliders need to be pulled, aswell as the Speedo Reluctor Wheel. Make sure that there is no Snap Rings in the way..and double check..cause if you try pulling with one inplace you will end up breaking something.
Pretty much the Gears themselves will slide off, the Sliders need to be pulled, aswell as the Speedo Reluctor Wheel. Make sure that there is no Snap Rings in the way..and double check..cause if you try pulling with one inplace you will end up breaking something.
08-12-2009, 05:21 PM
#89
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Thats good to know, now I will have to find those pullers I have and see about making the extenders. But now I am confused about what needs pulling and what comes off easily. I was thinking that each gear had to be pulled off. But on closer look at this guide it appears I only need pullers for the Synchro hubs? Can some one clarify what is pressed on the shafts and what is easy to slide off?
Will I need one of these separators / pullers?
Will I need one of these separators / pullers?
*****BUMP*****
08-17-2009, 08:04 AM
#91
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I started on my rebuild over the weekend,I did the billet keys and bronze pads.When the main case is put on it is very difficult to turn the shaft by hand is this normal?Does it have to do with the fork pads being metal on metal and no fluid being in the tranny yet?
12-28-2009, 03:18 AM
#96
This is a great article http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...&threadid=1877 how ever it won`t let me ask a question there? So I will ask it here also a great write up!. I have heard from a couple of transmission shops that you can "sharpen" the "dog" teeth on the transmission gears. they are shaped like a coffin, and are what the syncro slides on to to lock the gear to the main shaft, they are supposed to come to a point to help the sychro slider, slide onto the gear, however most of my gears 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and reverse are all "rounded" according to the transmission shops. They suggested using a 3m "cookie" cutter mounted to a high speed air die grinder, or dremel, to sharpen each dog to a new point? Will this work has anyone heard of this?
FYI I have the entire transmissions apart, I have most of the special tools needed for the rebuild.. pullers, 12ton shop press, dial indicator, ec..
-I am also looking to make the special tool needed to check the cluster shaft end-play, there is a nice drawing in the manual, at the end, I can`t see why it couldn`t just be a length of M12 ready rod? or is there a reason the middle of the tool has a round shank on it? Thanks guys! Any help is appreciated!
FYI I have the entire transmissions apart, I have most of the special tools needed for the rebuild.. pullers, 12ton shop press, dial indicator, ec..
-I am also looking to make the special tool needed to check the cluster shaft end-play, there is a nice drawing in the manual, at the end, I can`t see why it couldn`t just be a length of M12 ready rod? or is there a reason the middle of the tool has a round shank on it? Thanks guys! Any help is appreciated!
