Need some advice on modifying car
#1
Launching!
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Need some advice on modifying car
Mostly on order of operations. My goal is to build a fun and reliable daily driver (not used in winter months). Question is where to start?
As far as the motor goes I currently have a an SLP lid and Magnaflow catback. As of right now my future plans are Kooks LT's, something like a TR224 cam, possibly ported Fast90 intake, not sure if I will do heads or not yet I need to do more research. Car is an '02 Z28 with just over 53k miles. At this point in the cars life what needs to be done in order to insure reliability with the addition of those mods? What supporting mods are necessary to run them?
Next question is suspension. Given that I have a general idea for the motor is this a better place to start? Build the car up before adding power? For a daily driver that might go to the track 2-3 times a year, what should I look into here? Would an even better option be to look into an upgraded rear end first?
Finally what are some issues with the car in general that need to be addressed before I do anything else? Friends have mentioned the ls1 oil pump and timing chain as issues to me, but with my car being an '02 I believe it has the LS6 oil pump? Anything else?
I guess I'm kinda lost on what direction I should go first. I've been doing a lot of lurking and reading on here lately, and it's given me a general idea but at the same time I feel more lost now than I did before. Any advice/help on what you would do if it was your car is greatly appreciated. Thanks fellas.
As far as the motor goes I currently have a an SLP lid and Magnaflow catback. As of right now my future plans are Kooks LT's, something like a TR224 cam, possibly ported Fast90 intake, not sure if I will do heads or not yet I need to do more research. Car is an '02 Z28 with just over 53k miles. At this point in the cars life what needs to be done in order to insure reliability with the addition of those mods? What supporting mods are necessary to run them?
Next question is suspension. Given that I have a general idea for the motor is this a better place to start? Build the car up before adding power? For a daily driver that might go to the track 2-3 times a year, what should I look into here? Would an even better option be to look into an upgraded rear end first?
Finally what are some issues with the car in general that need to be addressed before I do anything else? Friends have mentioned the ls1 oil pump and timing chain as issues to me, but with my car being an '02 I believe it has the LS6 oil pump? Anything else?
I guess I'm kinda lost on what direction I should go first. I've been doing a lot of lurking and reading on here lately, and it's given me a general idea but at the same time I feel more lost now than I did before. Any advice/help on what you would do if it was your car is greatly appreciated. Thanks fellas.
#3
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Yeah, if you have an auto, people will tell you the first thing to do is a stall.
An 02 Z28 has the LS6 intake manifold stock, so I wouldn't say the Fast 90 is really necessary, although it would give you more gains (pretty damn pricey they are though).
But your engine needs to breath, so if you want to do a cam, the first is always intake and exhaust. Then you do the cam, and get it tuned.
An 02 Z28 has the LS6 intake manifold stock, so I wouldn't say the Fast 90 is really necessary, although it would give you more gains (pretty damn pricey they are though).
But your engine needs to breath, so if you want to do a cam, the first is always intake and exhaust. Then you do the cam, and get it tuned.
#4
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X-ray pretty much hit the nail on the head.
The reason I asked about what you want to do with the car, is that id you're more into corner carving, suspension can make the car more fun to drive than engine mods. A good set of shocks will compliment any car really, but you can go and get new sway bars, springs, LCA's, PHB or watts link, etc. (actually, LCA's and a PHB help with drag racing too )
The reason I asked about what you want to do with the car, is that id you're more into corner carving, suspension can make the car more fun to drive than engine mods. A good set of shocks will compliment any car really, but you can go and get new sway bars, springs, LCA's, PHB or watts link, etc. (actually, LCA's and a PHB help with drag racing too )
#5
Launching!
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Yeah, if you have an auto, people will tell you the first thing to do is a stall.
An 02 Z28 has the LS6 intake manifold stock, so I wouldn't say the Fast 90 is really necessary, although it would give you more gains (pretty damn pricey they are though).
But your engine needs to breath, so if you want to do a cam, the first is always intake and exhaust. Then you do the cam, and get it tuned.
An 02 Z28 has the LS6 intake manifold stock, so I wouldn't say the Fast 90 is really necessary, although it would give you more gains (pretty damn pricey they are though).
But your engine needs to breath, so if you want to do a cam, the first is always intake and exhaust. Then you do the cam, and get it tuned.
#6
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Well, I would recommend a shifter (unless you like stock, but a new shifter like a Pro 5.0 or MGW can really make it more fun), lid, LT's (the brand is up to you, Pacesetters and Hookers are cheaper, but Kooks and ARH are stainless and more expensive) and whatever Y you choose for power mods for now. All of these will compliment a cam, so might as well do the easy stuff first.
I would still invest in a set of shocks and some suspension mods to compliment this. For shocks, Koni's are #1, but many don't think that $850 on shocks is worth it. Bilsteins or KYB's are fairly good alternatives, but remember, you use your engines power when you speed up, suspension is used ALL THE TIME. Some sways will help with your launch (stiffer rear) and if they're balanced will help handling. Otherwise, LCA's, PHB, TA and TA RB, etc. are all recommended for both street and drag.
All in all, it depends on your budget and how much you want to do at a time!
I would still invest in a set of shocks and some suspension mods to compliment this. For shocks, Koni's are #1, but many don't think that $850 on shocks is worth it. Bilsteins or KYB's are fairly good alternatives, but remember, you use your engines power when you speed up, suspension is used ALL THE TIME. Some sways will help with your launch (stiffer rear) and if they're balanced will help handling. Otherwise, LCA's, PHB, TA and TA RB, etc. are all recommended for both street and drag.
All in all, it depends on your budget and how much you want to do at a time!
#7
Launching!
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Well, I would recommend a shifter (unless you like stock, but a new shifter like a Pro 5.0 or MGW can really make it more fun), lid, LT's (the brand is up to you, Pacesetters and Hookers are cheaper, but Kooks and ARH are stainless and more expensive) and whatever Y you choose for power mods for now. All of these will compliment a cam, so might as well do the easy stuff first.
I would still invest in a set of shocks and some suspension mods to compliment this. For shocks, Koni's are #1, but many don't think that $850 on shocks is worth it. Bilsteins or KYB's are fairly good alternatives, but remember, you use your engines power when you speed up, suspension is used ALL THE TIME. Some sways will help with your launch (stiffer rear) and if they're balanced will help handling. Otherwise, LCA's, PHB, TA and TA RB, etc. are all recommended for both street and drag.
All in all, it depends on your budget and how much you want to do at a time!
I would still invest in a set of shocks and some suspension mods to compliment this. For shocks, Koni's are #1, but many don't think that $850 on shocks is worth it. Bilsteins or KYB's are fairly good alternatives, but remember, you use your engines power when you speed up, suspension is used ALL THE TIME. Some sways will help with your launch (stiffer rear) and if they're balanced will help handling. Otherwise, LCA's, PHB, TA and TA RB, etc. are all recommended for both street and drag.
All in all, it depends on your budget and how much you want to do at a time!
Cost isn't too big of an issue to me. I mean if I can save I'm all for it, but I don't want to cut corners. I purchased the car last year and it means a lot to me, I want things done right and I want the car to last. Plus I don't plan on doing everything at once. I'd like to keep the car as a work in progress just so I have something to do in my spare time.
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#8
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According to people on this website, M6s like us can grenade the rear end with stock power if abused. The 10 bolts are garbage and will become a ticking time bomb if you produce a lot of horsepower. I would definitely look into rear ends if cost isn't an issue. Ford 8.8s are good, and I guess they're cheaper than 9" and 12 bolts. I'm not sure if you can buy them pre-built for the Camaro, like the Moser 12 bolt and 9". If an 8.8 from a junkyard would require any sort of fabrication or welding on my part I know they're out of the question for me.
#9
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According to people on this website, M6s like us can grenade the rear end with stock power if abused. The 10 bolts are garbage and will become a ticking time bomb if you produce a lot of horsepower. I would definitely look into rear ends if cost isn't an issue. Ford 8.8s are good, and I guess they're cheaper than 9" and 12 bolts. I'm not sure if you can buy them pre-built for the Camaro, like the Moser 12 bolt and 9". If an 8.8 from a junkyard would require any sort of fabrication or welding on my part I know they're out of the question for me.
#10
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8.8's have to be fabbed up I believe, but for the M6 go for the 9".
Yeah, if you want to avoid breaking things go for the 9" right off the bat. As far as helping your car hook, LCA's, relocation brackets, a torque arm and a relocation bracket for that would definitely help your hooking ability. BTW, i'd go full length torque arm for anything that's street driven, as well as having at least one rod or roto end in your LCA's to make sure your suspension can articulate if need be. A panhard bar wouldn't be a bad idea either, as well as sway bars (if you're only doing straight line, you want a big rear bar, otherwise for street or cornering you'll get a lot of oversteer. Some companies make adjustable rears that can basically go anywhere from a 22mm bar to a 25mm bar, and one of those with a 35mm front will be well balanced for street, but can be tuned for straight line at the track).
As far as the order, that's up to you. LT's are still a good idea to be putting in, but if you're having traction issues and dont want to break anything, going for a rear and some suspension mods wouldn't be a bad idea now.
Yeah, if you want to avoid breaking things go for the 9" right off the bat. As far as helping your car hook, LCA's, relocation brackets, a torque arm and a relocation bracket for that would definitely help your hooking ability. BTW, i'd go full length torque arm for anything that's street driven, as well as having at least one rod or roto end in your LCA's to make sure your suspension can articulate if need be. A panhard bar wouldn't be a bad idea either, as well as sway bars (if you're only doing straight line, you want a big rear bar, otherwise for street or cornering you'll get a lot of oversteer. Some companies make adjustable rears that can basically go anywhere from a 22mm bar to a 25mm bar, and one of those with a 35mm front will be well balanced for street, but can be tuned for straight line at the track).
As far as the order, that's up to you. LT's are still a good idea to be putting in, but if you're having traction issues and dont want to break anything, going for a rear and some suspension mods wouldn't be a bad idea now.
#12
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Yeah it looks like 8.8s have to be fabbed. Forget it.
9 inch is stronger than 12 bolt so go 9 inch. They're supposed to be more simple and easy to work on too. This article gets linked a lot:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...son/index.html
"Ultimately, the selection of 9-inch vs. 12-bolt comes down to personal preference. If you are building a cruiser and want to keep everything GM, the 12-bolt is more than capable of taking the abuse. On the other hand, if you plan to flog your Bow Tie machine with slicks and lots of torque, it's hard to beat the 9-inch's strength and ease of service. Both are great pieces, so we'll let you decide."
To me it's just a no-brainer for the 9 inch. They're the same price, at least on Texas Speed, so why not?
9 inch is stronger than 12 bolt so go 9 inch. They're supposed to be more simple and easy to work on too. This article gets linked a lot:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...son/index.html
"Ultimately, the selection of 9-inch vs. 12-bolt comes down to personal preference. If you are building a cruiser and want to keep everything GM, the 12-bolt is more than capable of taking the abuse. On the other hand, if you plan to flog your Bow Tie machine with slicks and lots of torque, it's hard to beat the 9-inch's strength and ease of service. Both are great pieces, so we'll let you decide."
To me it's just a no-brainer for the 9 inch. They're the same price, at least on Texas Speed, so why not?
#13
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I am in the same situation. I did my first dyno the other day and I was at 318/325 with just cats and a lid. I am greedy for TQ but with the M6 I am nervous. I would do the rear end before the suspension. Getting new LCAs and TQ arm etc is just going to stress our POS 10 bolts even more. As of now power is dispersing though the shitty tires spining but if you add good meat and supsension something has to give either the tires are going to break loose, the rear end is going to break, or if you don't relocate the TQ arm of the M6 tailhousing you could even snap the trans housing extreme cases.
#16
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Thanks for the advice guys. I think the next thing I do will be headers, then I'll swap out the 10bolt after that. I'll keep reading and researching to see what I want to do from there. This site has been extremely helpful!