ToxicWS6

talked to TSP about getting heads and cam and i was looking at the torque V2 and they recommended the 2.5 ls6 heads over the stage 2.5 5.3L heads with it and they said i would be looking at about 440rwhp. im not complaining about those numbers lol but i was looking at dyno numbers on the polluter cam, and just cam install there hitting 410-430rwhp with just cam and sayin it still has good low end and pull through the rpm range, now is the polluter a better cam then the torquer v2 or do heads not add that much, or do yall think TSP was just giving a low number so no matter what i put out its not under and i wouldn't complain sayin u said it would give me this and it didnt? and with said do u think ill probably be puttin out more then 440rwhp? thanks guys


from some one else

"just finished the install of polluter cam from tick performance,made 429 whp and 388 ft lbs.other mods are pace setter long tubes and ory,magnaflow cat back,lid,normal suspension things.car made 355whp and 350ft lbs before cam install.i highly recommend this cam,very usable power,very streetable with the right tuning almost stock like.brian from pcm4less did the tune,fantastic."

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

Dyno numbers vary depending on the dyno. They are a tuning tool that can give you an "approximate" hp. I never put too much stock in them.
440rwhp out of an LS1 is a very good setup. You also have to consider power under the curve, which I am sure is the reason TSP recommended that setup. You could easily put a giant cam in there and make over 450hp but you would be sacrificing drivablility and "usable" hp.

ToxicWS6

ight ya thats kinda what all i was wondering, im excited about gettin this all in about a month or so, waitin for funds to recover, if i do get the v2 and 2.5 ls6 heads and get roughly 440rwhp, how bad am i gunna need a new clutch, more or less how soon, can i drive around on my stock one np if i just dont get on it and if i do it will slip or will it like fry and blow up/not work : \, seein if i need to calculate that into my budget lol

Element

iTrader: (5)

My stock clutch was dead at 45k before I did anything other than a lid and shifter to my car...the stock clutch is pretty weak. If you're going with a 400+rwhp build, a new clutch is going to be mandatory, whether an LS7, Spec, Textralia, or whatever.

I absolutely love my OZ700/aluminum flywheel, but it seems like Tex, for whatever reason, isn't that popular around here any more.

ToxicWS6

you like the aluminum flywheel? think its worth getting? ive heard such mixed reviews on them its not even funny, heard there bad, u cant take off good and u dont get the needed weight to launch hard, but also heard o there lighter so less hp to spin them up and etc, so idk lol

Element

iTrader: (5)

I really like it. The ONLY place a heavier steel flywheel is beneficial over an aluminum one is right at launch - the rest of the time, it's just more weight to spin, which means less power to the wheels. I don't have any problem at all leaving from a stop sign or anything (hell, in traffic, I rarely even need to touch the throttle to get rolling, I just let out on the clutch).

I guess it could be argued that you need to "re-learn" how to drive the car with an aluminum flywheel, but you have to do that anyway when you swap a decent clutch in, and honestly, I didn't have any trouble at all adapting from a stock clutch/steel flywheel to the Tex/aluminum setup.

ToxicWS6

ight cool, my friend got a stage 2.5 clutch and aluminum fly wheel but it was in a 2.2L sunfire and he pretty much just had to relearn it like u said but wasnt sure if it was diff for us v8s lol