Overhauling Motor/Suspension Stock 100k mi 02 WS6--Goal:450rwhp NA
10-16-2016, 09:50 AM
#1
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Overhauling Motor/Suspension Stock 100k mi 02 WS6--Goal:450rwhp NA Hi all,
I'm sure there are many threads on this but i'm very specific in what I want to gain and want to spend. Let me know your thoughts and opinions. My ol' man bought this car new and I bought out the lease when I was 20. Here we are today and I want to love this car again. I wont be doing the work myself. Please allocate shop time in your estimates. I dont want the motor to let go once I've done heads/cam so supporting internal mods must be considered as well (timing chain, rods, springs, head bolts, bearing upgrade, etc). I've been highly considering a texas speed kit but not sure on exact setup.
Car: 2002 WS6 Trans AM
Trans: M6
Motor: Stock LS1 100,000mi
Current mods: Pacesetter Long Tubes, ORY, Magnaflow cat back, 4.10 gear, LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel.
GOALS:
- I want the car to make around 450rwhp N/A and get into the 11's on a regular street tire (no slick or DR)
- Suspension needs love. Stock everything and 100k mi. I want it to be geared towards drag racing but still be able to take on a highway off-ramp at high speeds (no sway bar delete). Want it lower than stock ride height. maybe 1 1/4" drop?
- I want the car to be streetable. This is not my everyday driver but from time to time ill drive it straight for a week or 2 instead of just weekends or night blasts. Want to hear the cam but don't want it to be a pain to drive.
Budget: $7,000-$10,000 on entire set-up. Preferrably closer to the lower # lol.
Thanks in advance!
I'm sure there are many threads on this but i'm very specific in what I want to gain and want to spend. Let me know your thoughts and opinions. My ol' man bought this car new and I bought out the lease when I was 20. Here we are today and I want to love this car again. I wont be doing the work myself. Please allocate shop time in your estimates. I dont want the motor to let go once I've done heads/cam so supporting internal mods must be considered as well (timing chain, rods, springs, head bolts, bearing upgrade, etc). I've been highly considering a texas speed kit but not sure on exact setup.
Car: 2002 WS6 Trans AM
Trans: M6
Motor: Stock LS1 100,000mi
Current mods: Pacesetter Long Tubes, ORY, Magnaflow cat back, 4.10 gear, LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel.
GOALS:
- I want the car to make around 450rwhp N/A and get into the 11's on a regular street tire (no slick or DR)
- Suspension needs love. Stock everything and 100k mi. I want it to be geared towards drag racing but still be able to take on a highway off-ramp at high speeds (no sway bar delete). Want it lower than stock ride height. maybe 1 1/4" drop?
- I want the car to be streetable. This is not my everyday driver but from time to time ill drive it straight for a week or 2 instead of just weekends or night blasts. Want to hear the cam but don't want it to be a pain to drive.
Budget: $7,000-$10,000 on entire set-up. Preferrably closer to the lower # lol.
Thanks in advance!
10-16-2016, 02:09 PM
#3
TECH Senior Member
Easy peasy.
However a shop is going to charge quite a bit. I would highly suggest doing at least the suspension yourself since that is easy.
You can get a heads/cam package from a vendor or get a custom cam speced from one of the vendors like PatG on here with a set of heads.
Not sure how much you've looked into cam swaps but you will need more than just the cam. Valves springs, hardened pushrods, lifters, timing chain, its going to add up quick. I would call up a vendor like Texas speed that you mentioned and go over the power/reliability/driveability goals with them and have them set you up. A lot of the drive ability factor will have to do with how good the tune is you get too. So factor dyno tuning into your budget.
Search the gen 3 internal engine section to get an idea of what everyone else has done as well (everyones goals are going to be different keep in mind).
I would highly suggest poly motor mounts as well since everything will be apart.
As far as suspension be cautious as some vendors don't understand "streetability" and will set you up with full drag suspension and the car will ride and handle like total crap (and claim all their other customers love it). You are going to have to decide where you are willing to sacrifice as the more drag oriented the suspension is the worse its going to ride, feel, behave and all around handle. And the more handling oriented it is the harder its going to be to launch from a stop, however its going to all around drive/ride/feel way better than a drag setup.
And it being lower will hurt your launching too.
Viking coilovers are the current flavor of the month for drag coilovers, these might be your ticket but they are not going to ride or handle anything like a good shock like a Koni sport. You get your ride height adjustment with them and choose your spring rate but I wouldn't be all that comfortable going fast on the highway ramps with them as they are still a non-gas charged drag shock and will leave you with a floaty disconnected feel.
Vendors may also suggest running an oversized rear swaybar to help launch but will neglect to tell you that it can cause snap oversteer in corners and have you spinning out. Same deal with running a short, chassis mounted torque arm, it will help put power down but they won't mention that under hard braking that it can cause dangerous wheel hop.
Steer clear of poly bushings in control arms as they will cause bind as the suspension is trying to move, look into some rod ends or rotorjoints.
You may need to disconnect the front swaybar endlinks at the dragstrip to get off the line hard enough and just reconnect them to drive home.
You are asking a lot for it to run 11s on a "regular street tire", you WILL need sticky tires regardless, its not going to do this on some cheap all season tires. It would be 100x easier to just throw on a set of drag radials for the dragstrip and run it like that - with that being said you need to consider that the stock 10 bolt rear end won't hold up forever doing hard launches at the track, and those 4.10 gears only make it weaker.
However a shop is going to charge quite a bit. I would highly suggest doing at least the suspension yourself since that is easy.
You can get a heads/cam package from a vendor or get a custom cam speced from one of the vendors like PatG on here with a set of heads.
Not sure how much you've looked into cam swaps but you will need more than just the cam. Valves springs, hardened pushrods, lifters, timing chain, its going to add up quick. I would call up a vendor like Texas speed that you mentioned and go over the power/reliability/driveability goals with them and have them set you up. A lot of the drive ability factor will have to do with how good the tune is you get too. So factor dyno tuning into your budget.
Search the gen 3 internal engine section to get an idea of what everyone else has done as well (everyones goals are going to be different keep in mind).
I would highly suggest poly motor mounts as well since everything will be apart.
As far as suspension be cautious as some vendors don't understand "streetability" and will set you up with full drag suspension and the car will ride and handle like total crap (and claim all their other customers love it). You are going to have to decide where you are willing to sacrifice as the more drag oriented the suspension is the worse its going to ride, feel, behave and all around handle. And the more handling oriented it is the harder its going to be to launch from a stop, however its going to all around drive/ride/feel way better than a drag setup.
And it being lower will hurt your launching too.
Viking coilovers are the current flavor of the month for drag coilovers, these might be your ticket but they are not going to ride or handle anything like a good shock like a Koni sport. You get your ride height adjustment with them and choose your spring rate but I wouldn't be all that comfortable going fast on the highway ramps with them as they are still a non-gas charged drag shock and will leave you with a floaty disconnected feel.
Vendors may also suggest running an oversized rear swaybar to help launch but will neglect to tell you that it can cause snap oversteer in corners and have you spinning out. Same deal with running a short, chassis mounted torque arm, it will help put power down but they won't mention that under hard braking that it can cause dangerous wheel hop.
Steer clear of poly bushings in control arms as they will cause bind as the suspension is trying to move, look into some rod ends or rotorjoints.
You may need to disconnect the front swaybar endlinks at the dragstrip to get off the line hard enough and just reconnect them to drive home.
You are asking a lot for it to run 11s on a "regular street tire", you WILL need sticky tires regardless, its not going to do this on some cheap all season tires. It would be 100x easier to just throw on a set of drag radials for the dragstrip and run it like that - with that being said you need to consider that the stock 10 bolt rear end won't hold up forever doing hard launches at the track, and those 4.10 gears only make it weaker.
10-16-2016, 03:48 PM
#4
ill just add my rear suspension is completely upgraded with konis and rides and handles just fine. even running 4.10s its very streetable in OD while cruising.
but i agree if you want to run 11s you should at least go with some nitto DRs though i run MTs.
but i agree if you want to run 11s you should at least go with some nitto DRs though i run MTs.
10-25-2016, 09:54 PM
#5
There are a lot of threads on how to achieve 450rwhp N/A. It's pretty easy.
Here's a link to a thread a friend of mine made:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...8-450rwhp.html
Here's a link to a thread a friend of mine made:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...8-450rwhp.html
10-28-2016, 04:26 AM
#6
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I agree with the others, the 450rwhp is not a problem through an m6. But I think you're biting off more than you can chew wanting to run 11's with a street tire. I mean if you had enough hp you could pedal it and let it eat once you got out, but I'd say all the stars better line up that night. Also, with 450rwhp your 1st-2nd gear will be almost useless on street tires.
Your car will still handle better than you think on the right drag radials. I was actually impressed after driving with them, because unless you're road track racing or just wanting to push your car to the limits, then you'll be fine with your average on/off ramp stuff or quick maneuvers if need be. But if you drive like a moron weaving in and out of traffic, then they may not be for you.
Your car will still handle better than you think on the right drag radials. I was actually impressed after driving with them, because unless you're road track racing or just wanting to push your car to the limits, then you'll be fine with your average on/off ramp stuff or quick maneuvers if need be. But if you drive like a moron weaving in and out of traffic, then they may not be for you.
11-06-2016, 09:29 PM
#7
Suspension stick with shocks, springs and sways at first. The car will feel completely different and you can always add more if needed. IMO sfc's are way overrated on most setups, i removed mine eventually. Bilstein re-valves handle great and are much cheaper than Konis.