gforcejunkie

ive got 3500$ and havent got any mods done other then a catback. i was thinking either by the rear end now or wait what should i do. the car will be down at the track 2-3 times a month. its an m6 2000 z28. i dont know how long the rears will last with mods. if i didnt do the rear yet it would be headers, tune, intake, clutch, flywheel, and the lid, oh yeah and of course a line lock to help with those much needed burnouts and to keep away from the roll on the line.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

it all depends how you launch it. if you have sticky tires and are doin launches at 5 K then yea get a new one, but ive been to the track many times launched at 2-3 K and never had a problem

SweeTbone

iTrader: (8)

It's hit or miss with the rear. If I had $3500 cash in hand, I'd get the new rear now and be set. Even bone stock cars can break their rear ends on street tires. Total crap shoot. Don't get me wrong, you can do a LOT of things with that money. Headers, cam, clutch, whatever. But what good is all that bolted onto your car if you break your rear then your car just sits there gathering dust while you're saving up money for a rear? I'm saving up for a rear end right now and hope to replace mine before it breaks.

2000LS1TA

iTrader: (26)

Get the rear, then throw some mods at it

prplhaz

Get the rear and get it out of the way........if you don't do it now when you start adding the rest of the mods there will always be the fear of "will this be the launch when my stock rear breaks". And you know when it will happen, when your babe is watchin' and feelin' proud of her man (Murphy's law ALWAYS applies).

gforcejunkie

or its that race when your in the finals and then your winning then bam there it goes. lost one 10 bolt in a s15 jimmy that way.
alright so a rear it is then. what do you guys think of doing the 9 inch housing with the strange 12 bolt drop in. does anyone know anyone who has that

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

I would get a rear if you have the money, and are wanting to launch from up top.


You need to do a lil more mods IMO, with the mods you listed you are still pretty much stock.


May I suggest a H/C pkg??

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

FOR SURE get the rear end. which one to get depends on what your future goals are. if you plan on doing high rpm clutch dumps, but still want good driveability, then i'd get a 9" with the truetrac. if you don't plan beating up on launching, then a 12 bolt with a posi would be great, then you still can retain abs and traction control.

either way you're still goin to have about a grand left over... so i say get the rear, then get some headers/y-pipe - and a clutch.

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

If you are going to be drag racing, definately get a rear and good clutch. That will support any additional mods you add in the future, and you don't have to worry about breaking parts. Very nice.

2QUIK4U

iTrader: (7)

If you drag race that often I would definately get the rear, and then a good clutch. The stock ones are pretty weak. Then I would go with a full exhaust and intake. Then a cam and heads.

gforcejunkie

thanks this has been killing me trying to think of where to put the money.

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

no it hasn't, it's been helping you make up your mind!

your next mods in order of purchase:

1) rear end - around $2,400

2) clutch - anywhere from $400-$2,200

3) headers/y-pipe - between $600-$1,100

there's no need to debate... haha

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

to be more exact, if i were you i'd buy:

12 bolt w/ a posi, 33 spline axles, 4.10 or 4.30 gears.
i've always had great results with SPEC stg3 clutches, but do a search on what clutch is right for you.
then go with some budget headers like the pacesetters w/ an off road y-pipe (ceramic coated headers).

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

other things to think about - tires... do you have drag radials or slicks yet?

when you get a new clutch, you should really get a new billet flywheel. steel or aluminum is up to you but i'd go steel (it's a lot cheaper anyways).

i tried a spec 3 clutch with resurfacing the stock flywheel... didn't work well at all. i stuck a new billet flywheel in and it worked like a charm.

you know... while i'm giving you all this great advice, i should tell you that the best way to spend your $3,500 is TO GIVE IT TO ME!!!

cakweems

iTrader: (25)

Get A Rear End!!!!

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Look at my sig. 3 10 bolt failures in 8 months of driving. Never launched over 2500 RPM either. I'm dropping in an S60 when I get the cash saved up. Buy a rearend.

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

3500 is a lil high a dana s60 fully assembled cost less than 2500 installed...

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

If you plan on being at the track a lot (3-4 times a month) then your going to want it sooner or later. I went the other way and modded the power first but could not stick a launch. Was very frustrating. I did not dare put sticky tires on for fear of blowing the rear, wich I sold for 400 when I bought the 9 inch. AT $3500 you could do a rear and have 1k or more left to save for h/c package. OR just use it for an n2o system and your all set for the track .. minus the sticky tires and clutch you'll need.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

I would go ahead and buy a 9" and never worry bout breaking it again. I bet when you get the rear and some sticky tires and launch the car at about 5k rpm you will drop probably 5 tenths in the 1/4.

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

im ordering my s60 now... 35spline...4.10s trutrac s60 owns all...