Just bought a car with N2O, want to swithc to wet
#1
Just bought a car with N2O, want to swithc to wet
I just bought a 2001 camaro and the guy who had the car previously has a 175 dry shot on the car. I was never a fan of dry nitrous systems and I want to switch. The question is will I go faster on a wet system with something like a HSW plate over the dry shot that is spraying in the neck of the airlid at the moment? Has anybody done the switch and compared it?
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Before you go ahead and do the switch read through some of the wet vs dry threads, dry can be perfectly safe and in some cases safer, with all the new technology dry is a great way to go, and i dont see any reason you would go faster with a similarly set up wet kit vs a dry kit
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I say keep the dry shot, BUT run a second stage plate wet shot. Get rid of the MSD digital window switch and put both stages on a progessive ramp, like a FJO.
A dry shot is always going to be limited on power output, and it is the torque spike from the "intial hit", that kills ringlands.
A dry shot is always going to be limited on power output, and it is the torque spike from the "intial hit", that kills ringlands.
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I just bought a 2001 camaro and the guy who had the car previously has a 175 dry shot on the car. I was never a fan of dry nitrous systems and I want to switch. The question is will I go faster on a wet system with something like a HSW plate over the dry shot that is spraying in the neck of the airlid at the moment? Has anybody done the switch and compared it?
I would get it on the dyno with a wideband and verify a/f prior to spraying it again. Make sure that the maf is indeed registering the nitrous. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Thanks.
Nick
#6
I say keep the dry shot, BUT run a second stage plate wet shot. Get rid of the MSD digital window switch and put both stages on a progessive ramp, like a FJO.
A dry shot is always going to be limited on power output, and it is the torque spike from the "intial hit", that kills ringlands.
A dry shot is always going to be limited on power output, and it is the torque spike from the "intial hit", that kills ringlands.
#7
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Just swap out the dated technology of the dry nozzle kit and move on to the benefits of the after the MAF dry. All you would need is the HSW dry Plate and the Interface for fueling and timing pull, The modern technology of the dry hit has jumped leaps and bounds in the last year or so. Wet or dry, x-amount of nitrous will give the exact same power given all parameters are the same IE: fuel a/f ratio, jet size, bottle pressure and so on.
It would be about the same $$ wise to go wet plate and solenoid and lines, or Dry plate and the Interface. here's a deal you almost can't pass. try the dry hit, and if it doesn't meet your needs you can always add on to it and go wet. the Interface will work fine for your wet kit too so your not out anything.
read around the various threads many angles on this stuff has been covered in depth the last couple days. you wouldn't believe the threads that this stuff come sup in so looking around is best. good luck to you whether you go wet plate or dry plate, just dump the dated nozzles in the neck technology.
Robert
It would be about the same $$ wise to go wet plate and solenoid and lines, or Dry plate and the Interface. here's a deal you almost can't pass. try the dry hit, and if it doesn't meet your needs you can always add on to it and go wet. the Interface will work fine for your wet kit too so your not out anything.
read around the various threads many angles on this stuff has been covered in depth the last couple days. you wouldn't believe the threads that this stuff come sup in so looking around is best. good luck to you whether you go wet plate or dry plate, just dump the dated nozzles in the neck technology.
Robert