N20SS

iTrader: (5)

I'm wondering what everyone's opinion is on the accuracy of the new progressive controllers, especially the fjo. I just bought an fjo and it's my first progressive controller. I've been spraying for 20 years, but it's always been staged. The reason I ask is, I need to know what to set my initial percentage to. If I want 50% will it be close setting it at 50%? I read somewhere that it's not very accurate.

N20SS

iTrader: (5)

I know a bunch of you guys are running progressive controllers.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

50% is the duty cycle and not a percentage of the horsepower.

Sigforty

I would say the % is kind of accuarate. I use to run my 200 pills on a 50% setting some times when I did not need all the juice. On the dyno the car made about 100 rwhp with a 25% to 50% ramp based on time.

N20SS

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys. I understand it's a duty cycle, but it stands to reason, at least in my mind, if the solenoids are on 50% of the time and off 50% of the time then you would get about 50% of your jetted power rating. Ideas?

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I have always found that the first 0-40% are the biggest gains. For instance..if your jetted for a 200 shot...25% duty cycle may get you 100 rwhp. 50% DS may get you 150 rwhp etc. Difference between 80% and 100% was nearly non distinguishable.

So the point is...start in small %'s and work your way up.

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

yep....this is why a progressive is a traction control device and not horsepower control.

It all depends on how fast the coils/pistons react and the size of the lines from the solenoids to the nozzles. If you have a very large plenum area in between the solenoid and the nozzle you may have the plenum charged with pressure even if the solenoid is closed. This will keep the nozzle spraying without the solenoid being open.

N20SS

iTrader: (5)

I see. I may end up wishing I had never bought it. I know what my car can hook with and what it can't. I had the idea of using the controller as an alternative to a second stage by using larger jets, and setting the controller to a lower % for the launch and then ramping up. I have a dp kit that is pretty difficult to change the jets in, and I don't really want to use a plate or nozzle for the second stage. That kinda defeats the purpose of the dp kit. I guess the controller will work for what I want, but I feel it's gonna be a hassle and expensive trying a bunch of different settings to figure out how to set it. I explained to Chris what my plan was when I ordered the fjo from you last week, but I guess we should have had a more in depth conversation about it. Maybe I should return it before I install it?

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

No no...its not a hassle really. Adjusting mine was always very easy and once you see what a given % will give you as a start point...its pretty easy to gauge what your next adjustment will be to get the desired HP. In other words if your jetted for a 150 shot and 25% gives you 70 hp on the first try...up it to 40% and see where that lands you. Shouldnt be too difficult to get your desired results.

I would not suggest returning it until you try it out. Even if you dont like the progressive mode you can use it to control two stage by rpm or time in an on/off mode as well.

N20SS

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the insight 383. Maybe it'll work out. I just don't really want to go to the dyno to figure it out, and it may take some time and some n2o to get it sorted.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

well...once you dyno it two or three times at various %'s you have a pretty good idea of what you will be safe with. Then you just go out on the street and dial it up or back for traction.

If you are running a 150 shot...and have the right timing and right Af and right plugs etc and would be safe on the full 150 full on from 3000 rpm to redline...then just dialing in the progressive part is cake.

Another way to use the progressive by rpm would be to rely on the progressive system to allow you to spray a much larger shot than would be possible with a single stage system. Such as a 300 shot on a stock bottom end. You cant hit a 300 shot on a stock bottom 346 at 3000 rpm....or atleast just say your pushing it. But you likley can get away with a 150 shot at 3000 rpm ramped progressively by rpm up to the full 300 shot by 6500rpm with a 7000 rpm shutoff. That will of course keep cylinder pressure (tq) in check. In this instance you would absolutely want to spend quite a bit of time on the dyno plotting your curve by rpm.

But if its a 150...I would recomend a single trip to the dyno with several runs at various %'s just to get a feel for it....and then take it on the track/street and finish the adjustments there.

And then of course if its just for traction purposes...just take it to the track and try **** out..lol.

How much are you planning on spraying and what is your setup?

Just an FYI...it seems with progressives many will take a step back at first until they figure it all out...and then theoretically...you should have a higher likleyhood of success with the additional control of a nice progressive no matter what way your using it.

N20SS

iTrader: (5)

I'll just have to spend money on n20 to get it figured out. At this point I don't want to travel and spend money on dyno time just to see what hp I'm gtting at what % setting on the controller. I understand all the benefits of the controller, I was just trying to get an idea on the % vs hp. My engine, nitrous, and tune are all sorted already so I don't need any dyno time for any of that. I can run it all out without the controller, it just won't hook. I'm just using the controller as an alternative to splitting my nitrous into 2 seperate stages. Sounds like I just need to start around 25% and see where the traction is. I appreciate the input. Didn't post the setup or how much spray as inquiring minds would love to know. LOL! Can't let the locals get the heads up.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

sounds like you have the right plan then. Good luck and post up how you like it.