PROGRESS BUILD: Dry Halo Kit - Come in and give a hand!
05-01-2010, 04:02 AM
#1
PROGRESS BUILD: Dry Halo Kit - Come in and give a hand! Progress Report: April 29th
I finished installing the basic parts of the Nitrous kit. The solenoids, their fittings and tubing is all installed. I'm taking my sweet time on this which seems like a fun project and plan on working on the electrical wiring on the kit tomorrow (today
).
A few questions though:
The supplied instructions were a bit unclear because I believe they gave me instructions for a universal kit instead of the specified Halo kit. I was racking my brain trying to figure this out:
I know it's a lot of questions and I appreciate the time in answering them. Jus' the directions were pretty unclear.
Thanks!
I finished installing the basic parts of the Nitrous kit. The solenoids, their fittings and tubing is all installed. I'm taking my sweet time on this which seems like a fun project and plan on working on the electrical wiring on the kit tomorrow (today
).A few questions though:
The supplied instructions were a bit unclear because I believe they gave me instructions for a universal kit instead of the specified Halo kit. I was racking my brain trying to figure this out:
- What is the 18" -4 Line Fuel Line in my kit for?
- The instructions explained how to set up a nozzle-type design. I want to make sure I have set this up safely so how do you set up a Halo with the jets and the hose fittings?
- Included with my basic purge kit, there was a black manifold with two accessory ports. What's this for?
- How do I hook up my Nitrous Pressure Gauge on the bottle?
- Do I place any thread locker on the fittings on the bottle end? Nitrous bottle > Bottle nut/nipple > Short Hose > Nitrous Filter > Main Feed Line?
I know it's a lot of questions and I appreciate the time in answering them. Jus' the directions were pretty unclear.
Thanks!
05-01-2010, 04:09 AM
#2
Progress Report: April 30th
Finished the basic electrical wiring of the kit minus the Dynotune Air/Fuel Shutdown Switch and the Nitrous Outlet Dual Window Switch.
Here is a pic of my progress. The blue wires from the solenoids will be wrapped up in wire loom. I jus' taped it up to the Nitrous Main line temporarily. The solenoids are held atop the throttle body with Harris Speed Works' Bracket.
I am drawing up a wiring diagram as I build on the kit so that I have a reference sheet in case something goes wrong. So far this is what I completed:
Does anyone see anything wrong with my diagram?? Thanks!
Finished the basic electrical wiring of the kit minus the Dynotune Air/Fuel Shutdown Switch and the Nitrous Outlet Dual Window Switch.
Here is a pic of my progress. The blue wires from the solenoids will be wrapped up in wire loom. I jus' taped it up to the Nitrous Main line temporarily. The solenoids are held atop the throttle body with Harris Speed Works' Bracket.
I am drawing up a wiring diagram as I build on the kit so that I have a reference sheet in case something goes wrong. So far this is what I completed:
Does anyone see anything wrong with my diagram?? Thanks!
05-01-2010, 07:32 AM
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (103)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: South of West Point Iowa
Posts: 2,633
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If you haven't gotten a fuse between your power connection (12V key source label) and your switch, I would put one there...
I would recommend a relay for your purge also (so you don't have full current flow through your switches there...
Your relay (30) to black to red. . . stick w/1 wire/1 color (multiple wires means multiple connections which means multiple chances of failure)...
Guessing you're not done w/the diagram because I don't see what triggers the nitrous solenoid/relay (your 86 connection)...
I would recommend not doing several butt-connections w/the grounds, just put grounds on each one and then bolt them to body for connection/ground.
With 85(white) to ground, stick with black. This way you know all the time black is ground. Use red for hot-power and possibly green or blue for trigger-power. I say this just in case you need help from someone else to make it easy to tell what each wires purpose is w/out your diagram (unless you can get that heat-shrink that you can put labels on...)
I would recommend a relay for your purge also (so you don't have full current flow through your switches there...
Your relay (30) to black to red. . . stick w/1 wire/1 color (multiple wires means multiple connections which means multiple chances of failure)...
Guessing you're not done w/the diagram because I don't see what triggers the nitrous solenoid/relay (your 86 connection)...
I would recommend not doing several butt-connections w/the grounds, just put grounds on each one and then bolt them to body for connection/ground.
With 85(white) to ground, stick with black. This way you know all the time black is ground. Use red for hot-power and possibly green or blue for trigger-power. I say this just in case you need help from someone else to make it easy to tell what each wires purpose is w/out your diagram (unless you can get that heat-shrink that you can put labels on...)
05-01-2010, 09:19 PM
#4
If you haven't gotten a fuse between your power connection (12V key source label) and your switch, I would put one there...
I would recommend a relay for your purge also (so you don't have full current flow through your switches there...
Your relay (30) to black to red. . . stick w/1 wire/1 color (multiple wires means multiple connections which means multiple chances of failure)...
Guessing you're not done w/the diagram because I don't see what triggers the nitrous solenoid/relay (your 86 connection)...
I would recommend not doing several butt-connections w/the grounds, just put grounds on each one and then bolt them to body for connection/ground.
With 85(white) to ground, stick with black. This way you know all the time black is ground. Use red for hot-power and possibly green or blue for trigger-power. I say this just in case you need help from someone else to make it easy to tell what each wires purpose is w/out your diagram (unless you can get that heat-shrink that you can put labels on...)
I would recommend a relay for your purge also (so you don't have full current flow through your switches there...
Your relay (30) to black to red. . . stick w/1 wire/1 color (multiple wires means multiple connections which means multiple chances of failure)...
Guessing you're not done w/the diagram because I don't see what triggers the nitrous solenoid/relay (your 86 connection)...
I would recommend not doing several butt-connections w/the grounds, just put grounds on each one and then bolt them to body for connection/ground.
With 85(white) to ground, stick with black. This way you know all the time black is ground. Use red for hot-power and possibly green or blue for trigger-power. I say this just in case you need help from someone else to make it easy to tell what each wires purpose is w/out your diagram (unless you can get that heat-shrink that you can put labels on...)
Thanks for checking out my diagram.
- The supplied wiring diagrams doesn't show a relay for the purge?
- Should I cut off those butt connectors and add wire length so I could ground each connection?
I'm definitely trying to stick with 1 wire, same color but the red-to-black that you mentioned is the supplied red wire to connect to the black wire of the supplied relay?
