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Just a few questions from a NOS Newbee down under

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Old 01-10-2004, 04:22 PM
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Default Just a few questions from a NOS Newbee down under

Well I have been using the search function frantically trying to gather as much info as possible on Nitrous Oxide Systems and have found lots of great info on this site. I do have a couple of questions however that I couldn’t find answers to so I am hoping you guys can help me out.

Firstly as a bit of background info, I have an Australian built Manual (M6) HSV R8 which I am sure most of you know uses an LS1. Performance mods include small cam (216 220 114), Ported heads with 1.4" springs and Yella Terra 1.8 ratio roller rockers.
Also have 2 1/2 twin exhaust with X pipe merge and a shielded pod filter on the intake. The MAF has been removed a full Mafless tune carried out using LS1 Edit. Current set up is currently giving around 370 rwhp.

I have now fitted a Nos systems 120 Hp wet system to the car and set it up with a #60 pill on the NO2 and a #36 pill on the fuel. This giving me an AFR of around 11.5 and around 460 rwhp. The Fuel system is still completely stock including injectors. (Standard injectors are apparently 28lb on the LS1s used in the later model Holdens)

First question is this comparable with the results you guys are getting with similar setups?

Not sure if this is anything unusual, but I have fitted a first gear NOS lock out so that when the NOS is armed, it will only activate when at WOT from second gear onwards. I also have a bypass switch on the first gear lockout so that NOS can be used in first gear when slicks are fitted. Seems to work quite well and allows me to bury the pedal in first with out worrying about uncontrollable wheel spin.

In relation to the NOS install, the bottle is in the boot (trunk) complete with bottle warmer with the bottle warmer switchable form the cabin.

I am thinking of fitting a remote bottle opener also but don’t want another switch in the cabin. I was thinking about using the bottle warmer switch to activate the bottle solenoid. Is this a practical way of doing it?

Another way I imagine is to have the bottle solenoid activate when the NOS solenoid activates. I have heard that this may not be the best way though due to more chance of vapour in the line.

Could anyone suggest the best method of remote bottle activation please?

My last question (for now) is are you guys monitoring AFRs from inside the car when using NOS? The one thing that seems to be the weak link with these systems is a possible fuel solenoid failure and a subsequent lean run. It seems like cheep insurance to monitor your AFR or is this overkill for a small shot like I am running.

Thanks in advance.

John
Old 01-11-2004, 01:35 AM
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First question is this comparable with the results you guys are getting with similar setups?
Sounds just about right ... u gained almost 100rwhp, not bad ... I'm sure with some fine tuning and perfect conditions you might be able to boost that alittle bit.

Not sure if this is anything unusual, but I have fitted a first gear NOS lock out so that when the NOS is armed, it will only activate when at WOT from second gear onwards. I also have a bypass switch on the first gear lockout so that NOS can be used in first gear when slicks are fitted. Seems to work quite well and allows me to bury the pedal in first with out worrying about uncontrollable wheel spin.
I WANT ONE ... where did you get it? (PM me please)

In relation to the NOS install, the bottle is in the boot (trunk) complete with bottle warmer with the bottle warmer switchable form the cabin.

I am thinking of fitting a remote bottle opener also but don’t want another switch in the cabin. I was thinking about using the bottle warmer switch to activate the bottle solenoid. Is this a practical way of doing it?
Wouldn't work, the bottle opener requires a SPDT switch, which has a seperate power lead for both on and off ... while the bottle heater is a standard SPST switch, which is just on or off.

Another way I imagine is to have the bottle solenoid activate when the NOS solenoid activates. I have heard that this may not be the best way though due to more chance of vapour in the line.
Basically the same answer as before .... Also there would be a delay if you did this, and the "NOS Solenoid" upfront would be opening with no pressure for a slight amount of time, which it is not designed to do and could make it malfunction (says right on the side of the solenoid).

Could anyone suggest the best method of remote bottle activation please?
Personally, as long as you have an automatic bottle warmer, which I am sure you probably do ... I would take out the switch you have now for the bottle warmer, and replace it with the switch for the remote bottle opener ... run the extra line to the back and use that switch to operate the bottle opener. Then put a second switch, right next to the bottle for the heater. Flip that switch on when u get in the car (since it will automatically turn on and off due to pressure or heat, depending on the brand) then flip it off when you leave.
That would be the simpilest/most effective way to do it, without making another switch.

My last question (for now) is are you guys monitoring AFRs from inside the car when using NOS? The one thing that seems to be the weak link with these systems is a possible fuel solenoid failure and a subsequent lean run. It seems like cheep insurance to monitor your AFR or is this overkill for a small shot like I am running.
I personally have an A/F ratio gauge on my a pillar, but it is more for information and looks than functionality. If you were to run lean, chances are you wouldn't be looking at it that exact second, and by the time you saw it, turned the system off, blablabla, it would be too late. I use a system that constantly monitors the A/F ratio for me, and if it senses a lean condition will automatically turn it off. I still don't put too much confidence into that either, since if there was an injector malfunctioned or something which is localized to just one cylinder, that cyl could run lean while the others compensated by running richer, which might not be picked up as a problem, but could still cause damage.

Hopefully this helps.
Old 01-11-2004, 06:34 AM
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Thanks for taking the time to answer my post xphantomws6x, it is much appreciated and you have answered most of my questions. In relation to the first gear lock out, I have simply fitted a precision micro switch to gear selector mechanism and wired to the normally closed contacts. When in first gear, the selector position depresses the micro and holds it open. Once out of first, the micro closes and allows the Nos to work as normal. I think we have a bit of an advantage with the Holden as the shift mechanism goes through a linkage where from what I have seen, most of the American cars shift mechanism goes straight into the gear box. The boys with the GTOs will know what I mean.

In relation to AFR sensor I think what you have installed is certainly better then nothing and as such I am interested in this device. Could you tell me where I could get this?

Thanks again for your help.

Cheers

John
Old 01-11-2004, 12:45 PM
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I use the "Venom 2000" nitrous system, which has a TON of excellent features. It is alittle more expensive then a normal NOS or NX system, and it is also a dry system, as opposed to the wet system you are refering to. I am sure you could probably use a dry-wet conversion setup with it, but I am not positive.
The venom system's features include a progressive nitrous controller, built-in A/F sensor, shot selection through the computer instead of different nozzles, and a host of other cool features. You can do a search for it on Yahoo or eBay and see what you come up with ... since I don't belive any of our sponsors sell it, and I don't want to get in trouble.

Good luck and I'll look into that switch idea.
Old 01-11-2004, 01:01 PM
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xphantomws6x. check your pm's for info on the switch setup.
Old 01-11-2004, 02:54 PM
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Great, thanks boss.




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