WeirdRich

iTrader: (2)

Alright well Ive decided to dive into the world of nitrous and I would like some opinions. I want to spend around 2k, but just let me know what you guys think.

Nitro Dave has been a big help with this so id like to stick with his stuff, but if anyone has any better ideas Im definitely open to them.

My Car
-T56
-4.11 Moser Rear
-215/230 .629/.592 117 LSA Cam
-LS6 Intake w/ stock ported TB
-Kooks Long Tubes

And heres the setup Im looking at.

Nitrous Outlet 78mm 98-02 F-body Plate System (10lb bottle)
Nitrous Outlet Stage 3 Accessory Package for 4AN systems
-Nitrous Outlet Stage 3 Accessory Package for 4AN systems
-Luminescent Nitrous Pressure Gauge
-Nitrous Outlet Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
-Nitrous Outlet Male NHRA Valve
-Nitrous Outlet 180* Blow Down Tube
-Nitrous Outlet 4an Purge Kit
-Nitrous Outlet 4AN Nitrous Filter
1998 LS1 Camaro & Firebird High-Performance Plug & Play Fuel System (Racetronix Kit)
-Fuel Pump Wiring Harness (Hotwire)
NGK BR7EF Plugs (Will these do?)
Nitrous Outlet 93-02 F-Body Ashtray 4 Switch Panel
Nitrous Outlet 93-02 F-Body Spare Tire 10lb/15lb Nitrous Bottle Mounting Bracket

MSD 2 Step
NOS Mini 2 stage progressive controller (any better ideas? FJO?)

I would like to make this purchase within the next week or so, so let me know what you think. Just be nice, Im new at this

WeirdRich

iTrader: (2)

No complaints?

Any input on the controller?

Killer5.3

iTrader: (1)

The FJO is usually on backorder and hard to get. Nos makes a quality product. If you are already talking with Nitrous Outlet then I would look no further and go with what they are recommending for your setup.

WeirdRich

iTrader: (2)

I didnt know that about the FJO, I appreciate the info.


And Nitrous Outlet is definitely getting my business, I just want to make sure everything here makes sense. (Not all of it is input from N.O.)

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I would use the LNC-2000 or LNC-0002(same thing just a revised version) so that you can retard the timing along with having the 2-step feature. Make sure you follow LPE's instruction's to a T, and use the diodes they supply, and you may have to buy 2 or 3 more diodes to do it right.

WeirdRich

iTrader: (2)

I have EFIlive so the timing will be in the tune, no need for the LNC as far as I can tell.

nate-roth

Not sure what is in the accessory packs, but have run a few hundred passes on the Nitrous outlet plate you are looking at.

Most important things:

1. electronic tps, window switch - the wot micro switches suck

2. wideband 02 that you can see easily while spraying - a must

3. bottle heater with pressure switch - the nitrous outlet bracket/heater
fits in between the backseat is nice

4. extra full bottle for the track - you will only get 3 good passes on a 150 shot

5. a few gallons of race gas mixed in your 1/4 full tank - wont hurt your 02's

6. a caspers electronics alternator mod was very helpful too- cheap part that gives 15+ volts at wot - helps fuel system and ignition greatly

7. Progressive system is a total waste of time imo - really hard on the solenoids - if you want to spray that much, run a 2 stage plate

nate-roth

Forgot to mention a few fuel jet sizes smaller than the ones that come with kit for hp level you want. I have found almost all the kits are a bit rich out of the box.

11.8-12.0 AFR has always worked well for me. easier to adjust on the fuel side

Start with the 100hp jets and get everything dialed in - i usually pull 3deg for 100hp

Move to the 150hp jets, it will feel much, much stronger than the 100hp - i pull 5 deg on the 150 from my NA tune

I have played with timing at diff rpms and really found little to no gain. Pick a safe number to retard and pull that number across your spray rpm and call it a day - you can spend the rest of your life screwing with hp/efilive and nitrous tuning

You will probably want to turn off the spray 200-300 rpms below your shift point on the window switch - it will eliminate the gear change harmless backfires you commonly see with manual tranny cars on nitrous

nate-roth

a few more thoughts:

A definite must on the plate is to run the line from your fuel solenoid to plate 1/2 as long as the nitrous solenoid to plate line.

ex: if your line from nitrous solenoid to plate is 8", make the fuel line from solenoid to plate 4"

It will eliminate the lean spike you see with all the plates. Dave told me it's only a microsecond and no problem, but I hated seeing it on the wideband. Nitrous at 1000psi travels much faster than fuel at 60psi.

And purge is a waste of money and nitrous - just crack the bottle line at the end of the day to reduce line pressure when the car is not in use - If your worried about air in the system on initial hit of the day - just crack your line to solenoid inlet for a second when you open your bottle - same thing if pressure is too high which is rare

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

Your list looks great. Looks like you have done your homework.
Dave

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

It is not real common to see a lean spike with our plate set ups. I have tuned more of these cars than I can count. Im not saying its impossible but I would suggest starting off with the hoses we send in the kit. If it leans spikes I would look to see what the fuel pressure is doing. If its droping that is why its lean spiking and the fuel system needs upgraded. If its not then the fix would be a shorter fuel hose. I deffintly wouldnt do shorter lines for no reason because you could end up having a rich spike.

Dave

WeirdRich

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info everyone. Im excited to start tuning with the nitrous, its something I havnt gotten into as of yet. I shot you another PM Dave, this makes about 30?

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

lol.