Solenoid Wiring Question
#1
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Solenoid Wiring Question
I just wired everything up and I fed the fuel line into a jug to test the 'noids. The moment of truth and the 'noids didn't activate...no click, click like they are supposed to.
This is the same NX "Iceman" kit that I had on my LS1. I snipped the wires connecting both solenoids when I pulled it off my LS1. I think I may have wired them backwards. Which leads to my question...
Is there a postive and negative side to the solenoids? I'm sure positive would go to positive and negative to negative if so. I'm pretty sure that everything else is ok.
Thanks.
unit
This is the same NX "Iceman" kit that I had on my LS1. I snipped the wires connecting both solenoids when I pulled it off my LS1. I think I may have wired them backwards. Which leads to my question...
Is there a postive and negative side to the solenoids? I'm sure positive would go to positive and negative to negative if so. I'm pretty sure that everything else is ok.
Thanks.
unit
#3
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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Solenoids have no positive/negative side. As long as you've got power going to one wire and a ground to the other, your solenoid should operate just fine.
Make sure your relay is wired correct, you've got a good power source and a good ground, and that your key is at least in the 'On' position.
If your solenoid still isn't opening, un-wire it from everything else and take one wire, put it on the + side of the battery and the other wire to the - side of the battery. When both wires are on the battery, your solenoid should click open. If not, your solenoid should be sent back to NX to be serviced, because they're probably broken.
Make sure your relay is wired correct, you've got a good power source and a good ground, and that your key is at least in the 'On' position.
If your solenoid still isn't opening, un-wire it from everything else and take one wire, put it on the + side of the battery and the other wire to the - side of the battery. When both wires are on the battery, your solenoid should click open. If not, your solenoid should be sent back to NX to be serviced, because they're probably broken.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
simple troubleshooting,
your high current side of the relay should be as follows.
Battery----Fuse-----RELAY-----NOID------GROUND
simply remove the relay, and jumper the 2 wires ( 85 and 86) for a second, and they should click, this eliminates all of the low current "control" loop safety features (FPSS, WIndow, Wot, Arm, Button, O2, ect..)
do this with the car OFF and the fuel won't spray much, if any.
To test the low current side of the system, pull the fuse, that disarms the noids, and pretend to spray, the relay should click indicating everything is working correctly.
There is a lot more to test with a voltmeter, ect, but thats the 2 simple test to know what circuit is the problem.
Ryan
your high current side of the relay should be as follows.
Battery----Fuse-----RELAY-----NOID------GROUND
simply remove the relay, and jumper the 2 wires ( 85 and 86) for a second, and they should click, this eliminates all of the low current "control" loop safety features (FPSS, WIndow, Wot, Arm, Button, O2, ect..)
do this with the car OFF and the fuel won't spray much, if any.
To test the low current side of the system, pull the fuse, that disarms the noids, and pretend to spray, the relay should click indicating everything is working correctly.
There is a lot more to test with a voltmeter, ect, but thats the 2 simple test to know what circuit is the problem.
Ryan
#5
You cant jumper 85 and 86. That is the coil to click the relay. You must put power and groud to them to see if your relay activates. If you want to jumper the relay, u need to jump pins 30 and 87.