Setting up a front mounted FP Regulator...
06-23-2006, 08:04 PM
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Setting up a front mounted FP Regulator... Assembling a Return System on LS1 F Body:
All PN come from Summitracing.com for Russel Reusable Swivel fittings, using RUS- in front of PN, except where specified.
QTY PN Description Price Total
2 632090 20’ Roll 6AN Flex Hose 83 166
2 640850 Stock Line to 6AN Fitting 14 28
5 613160 6AN 90* Fitting 16 80
2 613090 6AN 45* Fitting 17 34
1 613260 6AN 180* Fitting 20 20
1 613400 6AN 120* Fitting 20 20
2 610020 6AN Straight Fitting 5 10
3 660350 6AN-6AN Coupler M-M 4 12
1 640000 6AN-6AN Coupler F-F 8 8
5 660461 3/8NPT-6AN M-M 6 30
1 661960 6AN Cap 5 5
1 EAR1001181 Billet Y block 6AN 28 28
1 670520 or 670510 6AN to Metric fitting 5 5
Grand Total $346 (you can trim this down a lot if you use non-swivel, but the end product does not look as good as the hose tries twisting into its natural lay)
Add Rails, pump, and hotwire kit and your set for over 700rwhp!
Assembly is as follows:
Prep:
Disconnect 3 lines from Fuel Module. Remove Fuel Module from tank and pop stock fuel pressure regulator out. Install module back into tank. Remove return line at the 'T' fitting where it meets the stock steel feed line, vicinity of drivers side backseat underside. Install 6AN to 14mm metric fitting in the block, and install 6AN Cap (install needs to be very tight, more so than normal AN Fittings since it is blocking off 58+ psi) onto that fitting to block off the stock T fitting. At this point, you can remove the stock return line (there are three facotry sip ties holding the return line to the feed line cut them or cut the hose itself). (There are two PN's listed on the Metric fitting, one of those two is a the 14mm one needed, the other is a 12mm and not needed).
Return Side:
Install a Straight fitting on one end of 20’ roll and plumb from tank on pass side along rocker and AC lines to Battery area, install 90*. On tank side add one Quick D/C and on other end add a 90* for bottom of FPR. FPR has three 6an-6an M-M fittings with O-rings.
Feed Side:
Attach QDC to end of stock line. Attach 3/8NPT-6AN into bottom of Earls Billet Y, and connect to feed line QDC. Measure, cut and install 90* on hose for back of billet rail to Y. On other end of Drivers rail hose, place a 120* and fasten to rail and forward most of Y 6AN Male fittings (supplied with Y). Pass side rail hose, 90* on one end, 45* on other, connect to rail and rear most Y fitting. From rail front run 6AN hose with 90* on each to the FPR 6AN O-ringed Male fittings.
You need a FP Gauge not included in this write up, not sure why but whatever. Each end of both rails will have a 3/8NPT-6AN fitting installed, just not mentioned above either. Use Teflon sealant on NPT Fittings only, and use AN Wrenches on AN Fittings. Prime fuel system check for leaks, and adjust FPR for base pressure of 58psi. If boosted, attach vacuum line with good reference for 1:1 rising rate. Use either a copious amount of HD Zipties for tying hose to rocker, or use hose clamps. Enjoy.
*sorry about the numbers shifting, I wrote this in word cuz the wireless comes and goes... Enjoy*
And the pics...can be seen here...https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/530217-boost-referenced-fuel-system-installed-functional.html
The difference b/w a Nitrous return and FI we dont need a boost reference hooked up on the regulator. I can say that there is little if any FP drop when hitting WOT, unlike the stock setup where I have logged a lot of pressure drop. I will doing this to my car once it arrives in Arizona...lucky for me Phil let me use his car to design my return setup! More expensive than using a 97-98 Vette rail setup and modifying, but I already have the rails, some spare hose etc...Besides, I like the pimp factor knowing the only "hacking" was assembling the hose and hose ends. Other than that, all bolted together.
All PN come from Summitracing.com for Russel Reusable Swivel fittings, using RUS- in front of PN, except where specified.
QTY PN Description Price Total
2 632090 20’ Roll 6AN Flex Hose 83 166
2 640850 Stock Line to 6AN Fitting 14 28
5 613160 6AN 90* Fitting 16 80
2 613090 6AN 45* Fitting 17 34
1 613260 6AN 180* Fitting 20 20
1 613400 6AN 120* Fitting 20 20
2 610020 6AN Straight Fitting 5 10
3 660350 6AN-6AN Coupler M-M 4 12
1 640000 6AN-6AN Coupler F-F 8 8
5 660461 3/8NPT-6AN M-M 6 30
1 661960 6AN Cap 5 5
1 EAR1001181 Billet Y block 6AN 28 28
1 670520 or 670510 6AN to Metric fitting 5 5
Grand Total $346 (you can trim this down a lot if you use non-swivel, but the end product does not look as good as the hose tries twisting into its natural lay)
Add Rails, pump, and hotwire kit and your set for over 700rwhp!
Assembly is as follows:
Prep:
Disconnect 3 lines from Fuel Module. Remove Fuel Module from tank and pop stock fuel pressure regulator out. Install module back into tank. Remove return line at the 'T' fitting where it meets the stock steel feed line, vicinity of drivers side backseat underside. Install 6AN to 14mm metric fitting in the block, and install 6AN Cap (install needs to be very tight, more so than normal AN Fittings since it is blocking off 58+ psi) onto that fitting to block off the stock T fitting. At this point, you can remove the stock return line (there are three facotry sip ties holding the return line to the feed line cut them or cut the hose itself). (There are two PN's listed on the Metric fitting, one of those two is a the 14mm one needed, the other is a 12mm and not needed).
Return Side:
Install a Straight fitting on one end of 20’ roll and plumb from tank on pass side along rocker and AC lines to Battery area, install 90*. On tank side add one Quick D/C and on other end add a 90* for bottom of FPR. FPR has three 6an-6an M-M fittings with O-rings.
Feed Side:
Attach QDC to end of stock line. Attach 3/8NPT-6AN into bottom of Earls Billet Y, and connect to feed line QDC. Measure, cut and install 90* on hose for back of billet rail to Y. On other end of Drivers rail hose, place a 120* and fasten to rail and forward most of Y 6AN Male fittings (supplied with Y). Pass side rail hose, 90* on one end, 45* on other, connect to rail and rear most Y fitting. From rail front run 6AN hose with 90* on each to the FPR 6AN O-ringed Male fittings.
You need a FP Gauge not included in this write up, not sure why but whatever. Each end of both rails will have a 3/8NPT-6AN fitting installed, just not mentioned above either. Use Teflon sealant on NPT Fittings only, and use AN Wrenches on AN Fittings. Prime fuel system check for leaks, and adjust FPR for base pressure of 58psi. If boosted, attach vacuum line with good reference for 1:1 rising rate. Use either a copious amount of HD Zipties for tying hose to rocker, or use hose clamps. Enjoy.
*sorry about the numbers shifting, I wrote this in word cuz the wireless comes and goes... Enjoy*
And the pics...can be seen here...https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/530217-boost-referenced-fuel-system-installed-functional.html
The difference b/w a Nitrous return and FI we dont need a boost reference hooked up on the regulator. I can say that there is little if any FP drop when hitting WOT, unlike the stock setup where I have logged a lot of pressure drop. I will doing this to my car once it arrives in Arizona...lucky for me Phil let me use his car to design my return setup! More expensive than using a 97-98 Vette rail setup and modifying, but I already have the rails, some spare hose etc...Besides, I like the pimp factor knowing the only "hacking" was assembling the hose and hose ends. Other than that, all bolted together.
06-24-2006, 11:40 AM
#2
The difference b/w a Nitrous return and FI we dont need a boost reference hooked up on the regulator. I can say that there is little if any FP drop when hitting WOT, unlike the stock setup where I have logged a lot of pressure drop.
I just got done doing this. Why more people do not do this, I don't know. It will solve a lot of fueling issues. On the vettes this mod and a hot wire your good for 600+ hp. Put a bap and a better Walbro in and then your good for 700/800hp. This is with stock rails and lines. Good write up Cat.
Robert
06-24-2006, 02:14 PM
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We're working on an actual write-up, more step by step, but wanted to get the info out as soon as possible. When I pulled 602rwhp and still had plenty fuel delivery to go, I only had an Intank Walbro 340, hotwire kit, 42# Inj, and rails, stock lines, and stock regulator. Although I did max the MAF out welll before the 550rwhp mark. Not sure what I need to do for fuel control after that?
06-24-2006, 02:37 PM
#4
Originally Posted by CAT3
We're working on an actual write-up, more step by step, but wanted to get the info out as soon as possible. When I pulled 602rwhp and still had plenty fuel delivery to go, I only had an Intank Walbro 340, hotwire kit, 42# Inj, and rails, stock lines, and stock regulator. Although I did max the MAF out welll before the 550rwhp mark. Not sure what I need to do for fuel control after that?
Yea, I am looking at the 550/600hp range also. I have the 42's also, but still stock Walbro. I may try a BAP if need be, but we'll see. Using a BAP is another way to jack up fuel pressure on a nitrous run (dry hits) if your running out of room. Just wire into your wot with a relay and then it only jacks the voltage at wot. With the adjustable pot, you can dial in what ever pressure you need to meet your a/f requirments.
I can link you to a couple C5/Z06 write ups. You may be able to gleen some info, eventhough the vettes are a little different to set-up.
Robert
06-25-2006, 01:08 AM
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Robert that would be cool. I am looking at going to wet dry combo, got a little (ok LARGE) something I'm working on for the future of nitrous 
I am using a stock MAF and refuse to use a Z06, retuning the MAF is not my cup o tea..maybe I can compare the MAF Freq vs Airflow table and just alter the top few cells on my stocker to read beyond the factory 12,000Hz...I dunno. I will be slowly working on the car once it gets to AZ, first up is a new TC, this one is ****, 24% slippage (ouch), then the return system same as my buddies and basically the write up above. Sometime b/w now n then hopefully a new form of DP
I am using a stock MAF and refuse to use a Z06, retuning the MAF is not my cup o tea..maybe I can compare the MAF Freq vs Airflow table and just alter the top few cells on my stocker to read beyond the factory 12,000Hz...I dunno. I will be slowly working on the car once it gets to AZ, first up is a new TC, this one is ****, 24% slippage (ouch), then the return system same as my buddies and basically the write up above. Sometime b/w now n then hopefully a new form of DP
06-25-2006, 12:39 PM
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You can use a tighter 180 on the far side of the regulator if you want, mine uses a tight 180 and the gauge port and everything is fine
Also mine is mounted on the HVAC plate for thoes of you that have deleted HVAC it works quite well I'll post pictures this week when I get over to the garage
Also mine is mounted on the HVAC plate for thoes of you that have deleted HVAC it works quite well
I'll post pictures this week when I get over to the garage