quarter panel/rocker replacement 98 camaro *pics*
#21
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I see what BDYman is saying, but you did what you had to do with the money you had. My hats off to you. I think you did a great job, most people would have scrapped the car. Thanks for saving another f-body! BDYMAN does have a point if you were building a show car/trailer queen... But you actualy drive your Camaro, not let it sit because "I dont want to put miles on it or ever drive it because in 15 years its going to be worth 1/ of what paid for it". These cars are not Exotics, they were mant to be driven and enjoyed... GREAT JOB and effort
Thanks for the complements
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As a tech Im going to put my 2 cents in and say car looks pretty damn good. I've seen worse "butcher" jobs come out of actual repair shops.
As for the car not being level, that can pose a bit of a problem. However you had the car on jack stands, the suspension was loaded. If the car would have been sitting on the rockers, with the suspension un loaded it could screw with you a bit
As for the gaps, have you ever seen one of these cars brand new?? They're not that great. The front ends are built with shims, the cars are pretty much glued together with seam sealer and bubble gum, which Im sure you noticed once you started tearing into it. I did one of these , pretty much the same type of hit and found out how poorly made these cars are. Here is the link to my build http://www.opherautowurx.com/Portfol...p?g2_itemId=17
As for the materials, for the most part chemicals are chemicals. There are only a couple of ways to make an urethane, a couple ways to make an epoxy, etc.
PPG, Dupont, Standox, Sikkens, Matrix, etc, etc. I've used them all. They all have their pros and they all have their cons. For instance when I worked in other shops PPG used to stand for **** Poor Gloss. I personally do not like it. Material preference is like woman preference. Some like ****, some like ***, some like legs, some like blondes, some like brunettes. You see where Im going with this.
I think for what you had to work with, and what you accomplished you did a fantastic job. Could it have been done better??? Possibly. Im sure if you could do it all over again you may change a thing here and there. If at the end of the day you learned something, had fun and can say " I did that" then it was a success.
As for the car not being level, that can pose a bit of a problem. However you had the car on jack stands, the suspension was loaded. If the car would have been sitting on the rockers, with the suspension un loaded it could screw with you a bit
As for the gaps, have you ever seen one of these cars brand new?? They're not that great. The front ends are built with shims, the cars are pretty much glued together with seam sealer and bubble gum, which Im sure you noticed once you started tearing into it. I did one of these , pretty much the same type of hit and found out how poorly made these cars are. Here is the link to my build http://www.opherautowurx.com/Portfol...p?g2_itemId=17
As for the materials, for the most part chemicals are chemicals. There are only a couple of ways to make an urethane, a couple ways to make an epoxy, etc.
PPG, Dupont, Standox, Sikkens, Matrix, etc, etc. I've used them all. They all have their pros and they all have their cons. For instance when I worked in other shops PPG used to stand for **** Poor Gloss. I personally do not like it. Material preference is like woman preference. Some like ****, some like ***, some like legs, some like blondes, some like brunettes. You see where Im going with this.
I think for what you had to work with, and what you accomplished you did a fantastic job. Could it have been done better??? Possibly. Im sure if you could do it all over again you may change a thing here and there. If at the end of the day you learned something, had fun and can say " I did that" then it was a success.
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As a tech Im going to put my 2 cents in and say car looks pretty damn good. I've seen worse "butcher" jobs come out of actual repair shops.
As for the car not being level, that can pose a bit of a problem. However you had the car on jack stands, the suspension was loaded. If the car would have been sitting on the rockers, with the suspension un loaded it could screw with you a bit
As for the gaps, have you ever seen one of these cars brand new?? They're not that great. The front ends are built with shims, the cars are pretty much glued together with seam sealer and bubble gum, which Im sure you noticed once you started tearing into it. I did one of these , pretty much the same type of hit and found out how poorly made these cars are. Here is the link to my build http://www.opherautowurx.com/Portfol...p?g2_itemId=17
As for the materials, for the most part chemicals are chemicals. There are only a couple of ways to make an urethane, a couple ways to make an epoxy, etc.
PPG, Dupont, Standox, Sikkens, Matrix, etc, etc. I've used them all. They all have their pros and they all have their cons. For instance when I worked in other shops PPG used to stand for **** Poor Gloss. I personally do not like it. Material preference is like woman preference. Some like ****, some like ***, some like legs, some like blondes, some like brunettes. You see where Im going with this.
I think for what you had to work with, and what you accomplished you did a fantastic job. Could it have been done better??? Possibly. Im sure if you could do it all over again you may change a thing here and there. If at the end of the day you learned something, had fun and can say " I did that" then it was a success.
As for the car not being level, that can pose a bit of a problem. However you had the car on jack stands, the suspension was loaded. If the car would have been sitting on the rockers, with the suspension un loaded it could screw with you a bit
As for the gaps, have you ever seen one of these cars brand new?? They're not that great. The front ends are built with shims, the cars are pretty much glued together with seam sealer and bubble gum, which Im sure you noticed once you started tearing into it. I did one of these , pretty much the same type of hit and found out how poorly made these cars are. Here is the link to my build http://www.opherautowurx.com/Portfol...p?g2_itemId=17
As for the materials, for the most part chemicals are chemicals. There are only a couple of ways to make an urethane, a couple ways to make an epoxy, etc.
PPG, Dupont, Standox, Sikkens, Matrix, etc, etc. I've used them all. They all have their pros and they all have their cons. For instance when I worked in other shops PPG used to stand for **** Poor Gloss. I personally do not like it. Material preference is like woman preference. Some like ****, some like ***, some like legs, some like blondes, some like brunettes. You see where Im going with this.
I think for what you had to work with, and what you accomplished you did a fantastic job. Could it have been done better??? Possibly. Im sure if you could do it all over again you may change a thing here and there. If at the end of the day you learned something, had fun and can say " I did that" then it was a success.
that what i was trying to say, but i lack the skills to put it like this guy did, i just do it,
and um are you hiring btw?? need a job badly
#26
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As a tech Im going to put my 2 cents in and say car looks pretty damn good. I've seen worse "butcher" jobs come out of actual repair shops.
As for the car not being level, that can pose a bit of a problem. However you had the car on jack stands, the suspension was loaded. If the car would have been sitting on the rockers, with the suspension un loaded it could screw with you a bit
As for the gaps, have you ever seen one of these cars brand new?? They're not that great. The front ends are built with shims, the cars are pretty much glued together with seam sealer and bubble gum, which Im sure you noticed once you started tearing into it. I did one of these , pretty much the same type of hit and found out how poorly made these cars are. Here is the link to my build http://www.opherautowurx.com/Portfol...p?g2_itemId=17
As for the materials, for the most part chemicals are chemicals. There are only a couple of ways to make an urethane, a couple ways to make an epoxy, etc.
PPG, Dupont, Standox, Sikkens, Matrix, etc, etc. I've used them all. They all have their pros and they all have their cons. For instance when I worked in other shops PPG used to stand for **** Poor Gloss. I personally do not like it. Material preference is like woman preference. Some like ****, some like ***, some like legs, some like blondes, some like brunettes. You see where Im going with this.
I think for what you had to work with, and what you accomplished you did a fantastic job. Could it have been done better??? Possibly. Im sure if you could do it all over again you may change a thing here and there. If at the end of the day you learned something, had fun and can say " I did that" then it was a success.
As for the car not being level, that can pose a bit of a problem. However you had the car on jack stands, the suspension was loaded. If the car would have been sitting on the rockers, with the suspension un loaded it could screw with you a bit
As for the gaps, have you ever seen one of these cars brand new?? They're not that great. The front ends are built with shims, the cars are pretty much glued together with seam sealer and bubble gum, which Im sure you noticed once you started tearing into it. I did one of these , pretty much the same type of hit and found out how poorly made these cars are. Here is the link to my build http://www.opherautowurx.com/Portfol...p?g2_itemId=17
As for the materials, for the most part chemicals are chemicals. There are only a couple of ways to make an urethane, a couple ways to make an epoxy, etc.
PPG, Dupont, Standox, Sikkens, Matrix, etc, etc. I've used them all. They all have their pros and they all have their cons. For instance when I worked in other shops PPG used to stand for **** Poor Gloss. I personally do not like it. Material preference is like woman preference. Some like ****, some like ***, some like legs, some like blondes, some like brunettes. You see where Im going with this.
I think for what you had to work with, and what you accomplished you did a fantastic job. Could it have been done better??? Possibly. Im sure if you could do it all over again you may change a thing here and there. If at the end of the day you learned something, had fun and can say " I did that" then it was a success.
I agree with the bubble gum glued to gether panels for these cars, when i first got of the panel, down in the bottom rear of the wheel housing there was about 2" x 3" inches thick of seam sealer! there was that much gap they had to fill with it.
I did definatly learn something after doing that and if i could do it again i would do it a little differently. but "I did that" and thats all i wanted to accomplish
agreed
Thanks... agreed also about the tons of time put into it... i would say it is thee roughest panel on the car to work on
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A tip for you coming from a autobody tech, look into body waxing the qtr panel and rocker. Body waxing will help prevent rust. I work on mercedes and bmw all day long. Both manufacters body wax whole the car from the factory to prevent rusting. Trust me its great stuff.
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A tip for you coming from a autobody tech, look into body waxing the qtr panel and rocker. Body waxing will help prevent rust. I work on mercedes and bmw all day long. Both manufacters body wax whole the car from the factory to prevent rusting. Trust me its great stuff.
Excellent point. This stuff does work well, and if applied correctly works wonders.
The backyard way of doing it is using WD40 or similar in all the inside panels.
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A tip for you coming from a autobody tech, look into body waxing the qtr panel and rocker. Body waxing will help prevent rust. I work on mercedes and bmw all day long. Both manufacters body wax whole the car from the factory to prevent rusting. Trust me its great stuff.
what are all the materials i need and can i do this at anytime?
Sounds interesting, i am not familiar with it at all
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Interesting, I've always coated the inside panel with some sort of WD chemical while detailing. It seems to make the contaminants/dirt clean off easier, and seemed like a cheap way to keep rust away, is there a permanent form of it? Do you just utilize the normal "wax" as you would on the painted portions?
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the company s&S makes the stuff, its body schultz, and they also have the corrosion prtection schultz as well, stuff works great, i use it when i section frame rails, a,b pillars, it works great
#37
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thats old technology, 3m makes a new improvved product, and with any weld through primer, before you strike a wled, make sure the other mating surface is and has clean metal, what i do is before i weld with a weld through coating i just take a small screw driver, and scrape off or i just lightly touch the metal just so i get a clean weld
but if you use a resistant spot welder with panle bond and weld through coating there is not need to scribe the metal before welding, just go
but if you use a resistant spot welder with panle bond and weld through coating there is not need to scribe the metal before welding, just go
#38
Well the NEW 3m stuff you dont have to do that if you dont want too..Alot of people do mark it out of habit....
Read the sheets on the stuff..
resistant spot welder... is that a pro spot welder..lol
When you paint do you use the NEW lazer setup..OOOOO thats not on the market yet but I can use it everyday..
Measuring systems?? what do you know about that?? I eat & sleep this trade because I teach it..
People here are not bodyman they just want help & not be told what they do wrong..There alot of ways to do this trade & get the same results....
Read the sheets on the stuff..
resistant spot welder... is that a pro spot welder..lol
When you paint do you use the NEW lazer setup..OOOOO thats not on the market yet but I can use it everyday..
Measuring systems?? what do you know about that?? I eat & sleep this trade because I teach it..
People here are not bodyman they just want help & not be told what they do wrong..There alot of ways to do this trade & get the same results....
Last edited by Flip; 01-03-2010 at 02:57 PM.
#39
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if you have been around the buisness long enough you would know what a resistant spot weld is and the tool we use to get the same results that the factory uses,
when i worked for cars collision we did welding 2 ways, the common mig weld, and or used the resitant spot welder
i too have used a computer guided measureing system at cars collision, for 2 yrs so i know what your talking about lol dont think your trying to pull a fast one over me ok its not going to work
correct 3m rep told me you dont have to clean out their new product, but i do out of habit, i dont when i use the resistant spot welder,
if you "teach" this trade the trade school should have acsess to all the stuff i just mentioned, so why try to be the bad guy here,
i dont need a laser guide to help me paint, i do just fine,
when i worked for cars collision we did welding 2 ways, the common mig weld, and or used the resitant spot welder
i too have used a computer guided measureing system at cars collision, for 2 yrs so i know what your talking about lol dont think your trying to pull a fast one over me ok its not going to work
correct 3m rep told me you dont have to clean out their new product, but i do out of habit, i dont when i use the resistant spot welder,
if you "teach" this trade the trade school should have acsess to all the stuff i just mentioned, so why try to be the bad guy here,
i dont need a laser guide to help me paint, i do just fine,
#40
I did pull a fast one on you..a resistant spot weld is the same as the pro spot welder.. its the samething as they used on the line..
access...I have it to everything you can get & stuff not on the market yet....
Im not being the bad guy here.. Im just see what you know & dont know..You question what I said so I did the same back.. Just be open to everything.. Your way works for you & my way works for me..As you can see his way worked for him.. Thats all Im saying..You made a comment to me that people to liked to be helped but thats not the case..They dont want to be told your way is the only way..
No hard feelings bdyman..
access...I have it to everything you can get & stuff not on the market yet....
Im not being the bad guy here.. Im just see what you know & dont know..You question what I said so I did the same back.. Just be open to everything.. Your way works for you & my way works for me..As you can see his way worked for him.. Thats all Im saying..You made a comment to me that people to liked to be helped but thats not the case..They dont want to be told your way is the only way..
No hard feelings bdyman..
Last edited by Flip; 01-03-2010 at 04:52 PM.