Primer
10-19-2010, 12:38 AM
#1
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Primer about how much primer do you think i need to cover a 84 cutlass supreme...this is my 1st time doing te primer my self so i need a lil help and pointers
10-19-2010, 05:53 PM
#5
Why are you priming it?
Only time you should prime something is when you have filler (bondo, duraglass or glaze).
When you are priming you should "spot" prime. Which means prime only the spot that needs it.
You will be sanding wayyyyy more then you want to if you prime the whole car.
Only time you should prime something is when you have filler (bondo, duraglass or glaze).
When you are priming you should "spot" prime. Which means prime only the spot that needs it.
You will be sanding wayyyyy more then you want to if you prime the whole car.
10-19-2010, 08:16 PM
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i was puttin a primer n it because it is getting painted by a friend soonand it has a couple lil rust spots..so i rather have it a flat black primer for now instead of the stock paint with rust
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10-27-2010, 12:48 AM
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the car is sanded...now is their a certain kind of primer i should use...and what type of paint gun should i get ? alot of people been telling me about these spray paint cans of primer..is it any good ?
10-27-2010, 09:32 AM
#11
Ummm stay away from spray can primer!!!!!! I can't stress that enough!!! You will need a couple of cans of spray can etching primer which you have to use on bare metal otherwise the primer filler that you spray will not adhere properly! One light see thru coat of etching primer on all bare metal spots is all that's needed then let flash for a few minutes and proceed with 3-4 coats of urethane prime/filler. Use a good name brand primer. We use r-m diamont made by BASF. Use an HVLP gravity feed gun with a 1.5 fluid tip. Pull the trigger on the gun empty and screw the fluid adjustment screw in until you feel it pushing the trigger out then stop and it should be adjusted enough to spray with. Test the spray pattern and how wet it goes on first before you actually spray the car. Good luck and hope this helps!!!!
10-27-2010, 04:31 PM
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@2002nbmss thanks you answered my next questions with out me asking...now i have to try and get the cutlass back because the police pulled me over for no reason...mind u the cars not in my name...and walked up to my window and said my govt name and said get out u have no license...smh..these californis cops gettin a lil out of control
10-28-2010, 08:27 AM
#15
Take my advice z28jayp!!!!! Tear that thing apart before you ever start priming on it at all!!!! Take door handles, mouldings, body trim, taillights, etc. out first!!!! You will be happy that you did!!!! The less you tape up, the better it will turn out!!! Good luck
10-31-2010, 08:58 AM
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dude everything comes off, all moldgins, bumpers, tail lights, name plates, if ya hack it up and dont remove parts paint will peel and then you have a bigger mess
and what are you sanding with?? are you using a d.a.?? what grit paper?? do you even know what a d.a. is?? by your post im guessing you dont, dual action orbital sander, i perfer national detriot and then my hutchins
i might even suggest having the car soda blasted, starting with bare fresh metal for me anyway is always the way to go, something this old if ya dont have the funds to have it stripped, then stripping the car mechaniclly with your d.a. or even a mud hog with 80 grit on it will be fine, trust me i do it all the time i dont warp a panle if y a know what your doing using the mud hog is allot faster then using a d.a. to strip
again like i just stated the mud hog takes time to get used to, and stripping a car that way takes experience and in your case not having any you might warp a panle and do allot of damage
so then i go 80 on my d.a. then 120, doing a panel at a time fixing all dents and or rust, rust is a tricky thing, does the car have rust holes, or just surface rust, rust holes means making patch pieces, and using a welder, always use a weld through coating before you weld to prevent rust in the future, surface rust i grind and then use a black coated roloc disc i love those they dont warp and clean the **** out of metal
bondo...........bondo has come a long way in 5 yrs, its easier and faster to sand, safer for us< less cancer causing crap in it/ it is pin hole free so they say but no bondo is pin hole free, it is corrosion resistant, water proof, check out evercoats website and you will see all the great products thats makes our jobs faster and better
primer...........some primers out there like ppgs ncp 271 is a water proff, corrosion resistant high film build primer, it is a great primer sticks to anything plastic, aluminum, fiberglass, and it fills other primer are just a high build primer with no corrosion properties at all and a etch prime will have be sprayed before the primer can go ontop of body work, why do we put primer on a dent rust free panle? sometimes we do sometimes we dont some tech will to make that panle straighter then what it was, some tech do it because thats what the shop does and it there routine of doing things
primer is made to help us find low spots, fill scratches, and make a panle straight, with out primer if you just want to seal the panle and base and clear thats fine too and it alos helps in the adheshion process some paint lines you have to put a primer down
paint guns..... todays high build solvent based products a hvlp or a lvlp gun is to be used each and every painter has their own way of painting and using certain tips
the max for todays primer is 1.7, but there is no need for that big of a fluid tip
i personally use 1.3-1.5 for everything
there are so many guns out there, from sharpe-sata-iawata-devilbiss
i personally use the new sharpe razors for base, primer, sealer,< 1.3 and use a lvlp 1.4 sata for clear
in closing my hands are killing me body work is a hands on learning trade all us techs can do is give advice we can not teach you online it just wont happen
and what are you sanding with?? are you using a d.a.?? what grit paper?? do you even know what a d.a. is?? by your post im guessing you dont, dual action orbital sander, i perfer national detriot and then my hutchins
i might even suggest having the car soda blasted, starting with bare fresh metal for me anyway is always the way to go, something this old if ya dont have the funds to have it stripped, then stripping the car mechaniclly with your d.a. or even a mud hog with 80 grit on it will be fine, trust me i do it all the time i dont warp a panle if y a know what your doing using the mud hog is allot faster then using a d.a. to strip
again like i just stated the mud hog takes time to get used to, and stripping a car that way takes experience and in your case not having any you might warp a panle and do allot of damage
so then i go 80 on my d.a. then 120, doing a panel at a time fixing all dents and or rust, rust is a tricky thing, does the car have rust holes, or just surface rust, rust holes means making patch pieces, and using a welder, always use a weld through coating before you weld to prevent rust in the future, surface rust i grind and then use a black coated roloc disc i love those they dont warp and clean the **** out of metal
bondo...........bondo has come a long way in 5 yrs, its easier and faster to sand, safer for us< less cancer causing crap in it/ it is pin hole free so they say but no bondo is pin hole free, it is corrosion resistant, water proof, check out evercoats website and you will see all the great products thats makes our jobs faster and better
primer...........some primers out there like ppgs ncp 271 is a water proff, corrosion resistant high film build primer, it is a great primer sticks to anything plastic, aluminum, fiberglass, and it fills other primer are just a high build primer with no corrosion properties at all and a etch prime will have be sprayed before the primer can go ontop of body work, why do we put primer on a dent rust free panle? sometimes we do sometimes we dont some tech will to make that panle straighter then what it was, some tech do it because thats what the shop does and it there routine of doing things
primer is made to help us find low spots, fill scratches, and make a panle straight, with out primer if you just want to seal the panle and base and clear thats fine too and it alos helps in the adheshion process some paint lines you have to put a primer down
paint guns..... todays high build solvent based products a hvlp or a lvlp gun is to be used each and every painter has their own way of painting and using certain tips
the max for todays primer is 1.7, but there is no need for that big of a fluid tip
i personally use 1.3-1.5 for everything
there are so many guns out there, from sharpe-sata-iawata-devilbiss
i personally use the new sharpe razors for base, primer, sealer,< 1.3 and use a lvlp 1.4 sata for clear
in closing my hands are killing me body work is a hands on learning trade all us techs can do is give advice we can not teach you online it just wont happen
10-31-2010, 12:29 PM
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