98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Hey guys,

I might be picking up a WS6.. I'll need to correct a spot on the front bumper where the paint flaked off. I'm quite familiar with painting (smaller scale.. intakes, lids, etc) but new to the actual "body" of the car. I would be doing this with my father who has painted several cars in the past.. however everything is enamel now, not lacquer like he is used to. So I was hoping I could get a run down of the supply list and any tips you could share with us.

For all I know, he might know how to do everything already, but I'd like to hear what you all have to say as well. I'm assuming there will need to be some type of flex agent as the front clip is that plastic like material. Does a different primer or anything have to be used as well? Already got the compressor and all the paint guns so we're good as far as that goes.

Supplies/method/technique would be MUCH appreciated.

Thanks everyone

mhorn0817

not to much different then before, get the correct tools and sandpaper to repair the job, finish and mud work in 220, feather off in 320....lay down a good flexible primer. sand that down in 500 and just base and clear. but also all paint suppliers are different, so the paint i use may be able to fill certain grit sandpaper, a lower end paint may not, best bet it goto your local auto paint supplier and ask them

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Its not just flexible primer though from what I have read. I was debating painting my car myself as well but if you dont do it properly its gonna crack & spider web on ya the first time something makes a bumper flex. I'm pretty sure they also add a flex agent to the paint & clear but I'm not 100% on the clear.

chrisv_10

If it's just a small spot on the bumper that has chipped off. All you do is feather edge the area with 220 once it's feathered enough finish it off with 320 or 400 wet. Then if the rest of bumper is good sand that with grit starting as low as 600 nothing lower or you run the risk of scratches showing through once everything is dry. I usually do it with 800 and finish off with 1000. Primer the area, going out at least 2 to 4 inches around the feathered part. Wet sand the primer with 320>400>800>then finish it off with 1000. It may seem like a lot of work but the end result will be good. The reason I do from 320 to 1000 is to make sure no sand scratches show through the finished product which can easily show especially in darker colors.

Once you finish it with 1000 you spray the color in the area first only where the primer is for hiding. Then you blend it into the rest of the paint. Once its all done clear and thats it.

I would use flex agent in the primer and clear. You don't use it in the basecoat. Talk to the sales person at the paint shop for advice. Depending on the brand you can use the same flex agent in both the primer and the clear coat. Some primer already comes with flex agent, again just ask the sales person, he should know. Also if working with bare plastic use an adhesion promoter or the primer will not stick to it

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i was told by the guys down at the auto paint supply house.....you dont need flex in todays paint

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

From what I understand, the flex agent is to prolong paint flexibility for assembly reasons. When I used Dupont last it recommended assembly after "Overnight", buffing after "Overnight" and wet sanding after "Overnight" and decal "After 72 hours." So it would seem that THAT brand of paint would be fine for installation bending under 72 hours. Anyone wanna wait 3 DAYS before they put their newly painted bumper on? Sure as hell not ME!

chrisv_10

It's not just for assembly reasons. It's so the paint won't crack for the life of the paint. Plastic parts are always shrinking and expanding with temperature changes. That's why a flex agent is used in the paint. Also, it would depend on the manufacturer of the paint if a flex agent is needed.