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What to use after color sanding

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Old 01-29-2012, 04:15 PM   #1
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Default What to use after color sanding

I painted my wife's car and mine and after color sanding I buffed and polished with Adams pc system... Started with the severe swirl and haze remover and it brought out the shine but its still got swirled and scratches from sanding and what not... What do you use after you color sand?
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:31 PM   #2
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What grit paper did you use to color sand?
The reason I ask this is a light polish and a good buffer should take minimal effort to finish.
If the grit is too course, under 1500 you dug into the paint!
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:35 PM   #3
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I used 1500... Can I hit it again with 1500 and then spray another few coats of clear? Or try to sand it with 2000 and rebuff? My real question here is am I using te right tools? I read where people use a wool pad and some type of compound. I'm still learning and can't find anything on what to do after spraying the car lol
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:41 PM   #4
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after painting. you can sand with 1200 grit, 1500 grit then 3000 grit trizec but dont go past the clearcoat into the base. then you eather use a extra cut compond or rubbing compond with a wool pad then use a foam pad with swirl remover or final glaze but i would always end with a wet 3000 grit trizec sandpaper on a DA then start buffing and as long as you not in the base coat sanding and buffing is still do able until you hit the base then you have to re spray. and what are you trying to get out dust nibs, runs, orange peel
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:49 PM   #5
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A little orange peal
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:14 PM   #6
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a 3000 grit tizec would do that no problem
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:49 PM   #7
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You can buff it after 1500
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:07 AM   #8
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What did you paint it with?
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:02 AM   #9
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If you put enough coats of clear 1500 then 2000 should buff out pretty easy. If you see any color on buffing pad you've gone to far!!! 600 or gray scotch brite (3m) and you can re-clear.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:48 PM   #10
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I started to practice on an original hood to see what worked best for me before I painted my car this spring. I wet sanded the rough clear coat that I used a cheap harbor freight gun. You can see the before and after. Anyway I think I made every mistake available but it started to work out.

Used 1000 at first, stay away from paint edges. I blew through the paint in a couple spots. Finished with 1500 and went to striaght to Meguires Ultimate Compound. I used a buffer on some parts and burned through the edges so is I went to hand polish getting good results.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
I went to hand polish getting good results.
imo by hand doesnt get the best results , pc is the only way to go, im sure your arm is worn out lol
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:40 AM   #12
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Flat areas with the buffer were good. On curved contored edges you can see in the pics the buffer, and my skill level with the buffer, left a lot to be desired. This is why I used an old hood for practice. I am probably going to take my DA and sand most of it off and try again with an enamel paint I have orderd.
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:54 PM   #13
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Im not happy with my paint at all so when I get back to the states from Hawaii I am going to have a shop do it up red
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:18 PM   #14
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whats wrong with it?
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:33 PM   #15
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I use Presta Compounds in my shop. They cut A LOT faster than the 3M products I used to use. I can sand a panel with 1000 wet and buff it out with Prestas heavy cut compound with little work. Hit it with a swirl mark remover and glaze and its good to go. On high end cars I LOVE the 3M Perfect-it Blue Compound for my 3rd or 4th step. But to get the scratches out you need somehting a little agressive on a wool pad. A lot depends on what kind of materials you used(Clear). Some products are a lot harder than others and it will take some heat, pressure and speed to cut it. What kind of compounds are you using?
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