vinyl wrapping the car
08-05-2012, 12:48 PM
#41
Very sharp! I am thinking of wrapping my T-Tops. How tough do you think that will be? I think they measure out at 24". Is there enough stretch in the 1080 that I can get by with 24" material, or do I need to sink a bunch more cost into getting wider pieces?
08-06-2012, 10:28 PM
#43
Just gonna say the 1080 stuff seems pretty cool, I just received some carbon fiber and white carbon fiber samples today. Regarding my previous question about the FRCs and now dealing with this stuff myself, I'd say it would need to be sanded, just to give everyone else an idea of how it lays down
08-28-2012, 06:01 AM
#45
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You've inspired me. I already ordered some sample colors for my TA. Did you do it yourself or have people helping you? And it looks like you are doing it dry. Is this correct? I found a link on here where a guy did a corvette and did it wet. Not sure which would be better. The wet seemed like it took longer because he had to wait for oil to escape before he sealed the edges. Mines a DD so I don't think that would work out. Car looks great, thanks for sharing.
08-29-2012, 03:54 PM
#46
Came out pretty damn good OP. I'm going to look at wrapping the project car I'm working on. I bought 25' of the carbon fiber scotchprint 1080 stuff, and i've been wrapping a lot of stuff. You learn more with each piece you wrap, its certainly something that takes some time to get used to.
Yeah I'd recommend sanding them first. I had my frc's painted before, so they were already sanded smooth. But i decided to switch it up and wrap them and they came out nice and smooth. It is a thin vinyl and will show the texture of whatever you are wrapping. Did that along with my SLP lid, battery cover, PCM cover, brake fluid reservoir cover, and a couple other things in the engine bay.
just a heads up, it would probably be very difficult to used it on the letters. What i did was paint the entire stripe/letter area silver, and then taped off the tops of the stripes/letters using an exacto knife to trim all excess tape, and then I painted everything black. Once the tape was removed, the top of the letters/stripes now clearly stands out in silver against the black background. I then brought the vinyl right up the the stripes, which kinda blends with the black paint.
not the best pic, but it'll give you an idea. Waiting till I make the final touches before I take it out for real pics. With the decals, you get the SAME effect as putting flat black stripes on a black car, from certain angles (like in the pic) they really stand out, but most of the time the decals are a very subtle touch, barely even noticeable. I love it!
just a heads up, it would probably be very difficult to used it on the letters. What i did was paint the entire stripe/letter area silver, and then taped off the tops of the stripes/letters using an exacto knife to trim all excess tape, and then I painted everything black. Once the tape was removed, the top of the letters/stripes now clearly stands out in silver against the black background. I then brought the vinyl right up the the stripes, which kinda blends with the black paint.
not the best pic, but it'll give you an idea. Waiting till I make the final touches before I take it out for real pics. With the decals, you get the SAME effect as putting flat black stripes on a black car, from certain angles (like in the pic) they really stand out, but most of the time the decals are a very subtle touch, barely even noticeable. I love it!
08-29-2012, 04:01 PM
#47
You've inspired me. I already ordered some sample colors for my TA. Did you do it yourself or have people helping you? And it looks like you are doing it dry. Is this correct? I found a link on here where a guy did a corvette and did it wet. Not sure which would be better. The wet seemed like it took longer because he had to wait for oil to escape before he sealed the edges. Mines a DD so I don't think that would work out. Car looks great, thanks for sharing.
08-29-2012, 07:17 PM
#48
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This stuff is not supposed to be installed wet, it is supposed to be a dry install. Its hard to explain, but it can be pulled up and repositioned as you work, and you should absolutely have a heat gun. With the way the material can be stretched/pulled to shape, that would be impossible with it wet as it would be slipping. I mean, you can do it, clearly he did, you just end up installing it completely different than it's designed to, and I wonder what effects a wet install will have on the adhesives used?
