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I bought an '01 WS6 and I've been finding some issues ever since that didn't show up for the dealer or I when we inspected it (Window worked fine when I bought it).
In short, there's a "nub" that is no longer attached to the window regulator in my driver's side window that I'd like to try to repair if possible and was looking for advice from anyone who has done this before. Currently the window moves side-to-side, and does not seal properly allowing for road noise and water leaks.
I've read that the broken part of my window "frame" is galvanized steel and that I need to be careful when welding it, but my thought was to simply reinforce the broken metal piece with a square sheet of steel and a cut out "U" shaped hole for the "nub" to fit into, and then weld in a bar or something across the bottom to close up the bottom of the "U" shaped hole.
deja vu. the same thing happened to my drivers side. i took it apart and just glued up with jb weld. i let it dry for almost 3 days lol and it has been 5 months since then and it hasn't brake yet!
I bought an '01 WS6 and I've been finding some issues ever since that didn't show up for the dealer or I when we inspected it (Window worked fine when I bought it).
In short, there's a "nub" that is no longer attached to the window regulator in my driver's side window that I'd like to try to repair if possible and was looking for advice from anyone who has done this before. Currently the window moves side-to-side, and does not seal properly allowing for road noise and water leaks.
I've read that the broken part of my window "frame" is galvanized steel and that I need to be careful when welding it, but my thought was to simply reinforce the broken metal piece with a square sheet of steel and a cut out "U" shaped hole for the "nub" to fit into, and then weld in a bar or something across the bottom to close up the bottom of the "U" shaped hole.
Pictures below.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks!
great pics, I have the same problem on my 2001 firebird.
How did the JB weld work for you? It turned out to be a messy failure for me. I would not recommend using the liquid epoxy. I'm thinking the gray JB weld paste would have been better because it's half dry and doesn't drip.
On mine we removed the piece that has the slider on it, drilled out the end and tapped it for a bolt, then used 2 large washer on both sides.
I finally got around to drilling the hole in the bottom of my Roller stud, but I don't have a drill bit to expand it. I used a Dremel tool. I also need to tap for the threads. I hate the though of buying a tool just for one job (well, I should buy a drill also).
How did the JB weld work for you? It turned out to be a messy failure for me. I would not recommend using the liquid epoxy. I'm thinking the gray JB weld paste would have been better because it's half dry and doesn't drip.
I ended up skipping the JB Weld and going with a mechanical fix. My pops said to skip the JB weld and the old man wisdom paid off so far.
We ended up bottom tapping the roller wheel that sits in the guide rail about a 1/4", adding a stainless screw on the end of it, inserting a large stainless fender washer and a stainless lock washer, and tightening it down real good.
My pops said you gotta be careful or you could end up screwing up the OEM piece doing this method, but I saw someone else on the forums here manufactured their own, which I'll link to here:https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...dow-guide.html
"Screw is 1/4-28 tapered head socket head cap screw, thick washer (well greased to minimize metal to metal contact) used to duplicate large roller and has a ID larger than the screw to allow 'swivelling',large thin flatwasher to prevent pullout thru the damaged hole,1/4-28 locknut."
I ended up skipping the JB Weld and going with a mechanical fix. My pops said to skip the JB weld and the old man wisdom paid off so far.
We ended up bottom tapping the roller wheel that sits in the guide rail about a 1/4", adding a stainless screw on the end of it, inserting a large stainless fender washer and a stainless lock washer, and tightening it down real good.
My pops said you gotta be careful or you could end up screwing up the OEM piece doing this method, but I saw someone else on the forums here manufactured their own, which I'll link to here:https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...dow-guide.html
"Screw is 1/4-28 tapered head socket head cap screw, thick washer (well greased to minimize metal to metal contact) used to duplicate large roller and has a ID larger than the screw to allow 'swivelling',large thin flatwasher to prevent pullout thru the damaged hole,1/4-28 locknut."
nice...I might have to do something similar because mine is broken as well. I tried to do something similar but I couldn't find a big washer like the one you have in the picture so unfortunately it wasn't able to move around freely and my window would bind. I also tried JB weld but i guess i didn't let it dry enough cuz as soon as i went to put up the window the JB weld broke apart.
01-21-2017, 05:33 PM
Window Regulator Fix 
