Newb Bodywork Qs
#1
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jefferson City, MO
Posts: 2,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Newb Bodywork Qs
So my 93 Z28 is in need of some bodywork and paint.
My main question is for all the abs or composite type parts such as the nose, fenders, doors, hatch etc... What would the correct take down be as far as grits...The car has a paintjob now, but needs to be taken down, and specifically how far do I take down arears of spidering and extreme fading?
And what to use to repair the door?...
I just dont want to do any damage to the non metal parts, as I assume they are more fragile than the metal. Below are some examples of my starting point. Thanks in advance for any help.
My main question is for all the abs or composite type parts such as the nose, fenders, doors, hatch etc... What would the correct take down be as far as grits...The car has a paintjob now, but needs to be taken down, and specifically how far do I take down arears of spidering and extreme fading?
And what to use to repair the door?...
I just dont want to do any damage to the non metal parts, as I assume they are more fragile than the metal. Below are some examples of my starting point. Thanks in advance for any help.
#3
ok lets act like the 20in shoes thing is a joke. but as the fading goes that looks like factory paint and you dont need to take it down any farther than the factory base or primer. as far as the spider webbing goes just sand it down with 80 grit on a da sander untill you cant see them anymore then just regular polyester filler is fine for the plastic parts. alota people will tell you to use the fancy stuff but i've been doin this bodywork stuff for the last 7 years and never had a problem with it. if it does flex alot i just use a regular filler such as body or rage gold extreme
#4
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jefferson City, MO
Posts: 2,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok lets act like the 20in shoes thing is a joke. but as the fading goes that looks like factory paint and you dont need to take it down any farther than the factory base or primer. as far as the spider webbing goes just sand it down with 80 grit on a da sander untill you cant see them anymore then just regular polyester filler is fine for the plastic parts. alota people will tell you to use the fancy stuff but i've been doin this bodywork stuff for the last 7 years and never had a problem with it. if it does flex alot i just use a regular filler such as body or rage gold extreme
Yea Im pretty certain that its all factory paint....so I assume thats a good thing that I can just blast down to factory base...
Have an experience with plastic weld type stuff? My front bumper right at the marker lens on each side has a small crack (maybe 1.5") that angles down at about a 45* to the front tire (I think it got bottomed out and thats where the nose took the stress. The crack is not spread...I just dont know if I should just drill a hole at the end of the crack and fill it or what. I will try to post a pic later. Bodywork will start in my garage end of summer/over the winter.
Thanks for the help.
#5
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jefferson City, MO
Posts: 2,329
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You still live in a dream world... My car can not have quality body work done, and quality paint all for $3000... I'd rather take the time to do all the work myself and have that to spend all on paint.
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: chicago
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
theres more to it, and to the op, impossible to sit here and give you 20yrs of my experience and try to teach you online will never happen, no tech can teach online,
and 3k is cheap!!, you have to remember material is expensive no matter if its black or a mettalic color, plus labor, do you think we work for free?? hell no!!! where i work we start at 3k for completes and it only goes up, its labor, paint labor, material costs, plus tax, shhiiitttttttttttttttt you want it done correctly and for it to last then ya pay for the quality bottom line
and not to mention your asking about doing body work, on fiberglass, so i think its safe to say let us journeyman do a nice job for ya
and 3k is cheap!!, you have to remember material is expensive no matter if its black or a mettalic color, plus labor, do you think we work for free?? hell no!!! where i work we start at 3k for completes and it only goes up, its labor, paint labor, material costs, plus tax, shhiiitttttttttttttttt you want it done correctly and for it to last then ya pay for the quality bottom line
and not to mention your asking about doing body work, on fiberglass, so i think its safe to say let us journeyman do a nice job for ya