My LS1 runs, but the PCM seems dead (no gauges/only starts via hotwiring)
03-28-2004, 02:39 PM
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My LS1 runs, but the PCM seems dead (no gauges/only starts via hotwiring) Need advice ASAP, before I give in and go to the dealer (<- not under warranty, so trying to avoid this option).
While testing the wiring of the ASR switch, I must have used my multimeter wrong, because I shorted/blew something
. The car was running at the time, and all of a sudden the "lights on" beeping came on and the gauges/odometer all died. I shut off the car, and when I attempted to restart, there was no ignition. I doublechecked every fuse and relay, and later started the car manually by bypassing the starter relay and just wiring it straight across. The car starts(but not by turning the key)/runs, yet I get the impression the PCM is not working, since none of the gauges, or the ASR switch are functioning. Is it possible I fried my PCM? Would the car still run if the PCM was dead? If so is there any way to fix it w/o having the dealer reset/replace it? All accessories including the alarm & lights work.
Any help u can provide would be appreciated.
Thanks.
While testing the wiring of the ASR switch, I must have used my multimeter wrong, because I shorted/blew something
. The car was running at the time, and all of a sudden the "lights on" beeping came on and the gauges/odometer all died. I shut off the car, and when I attempted to restart, there was no ignition. I doublechecked every fuse and relay, and later started the car manually by bypassing the starter relay and just wiring it straight across. The car starts(but not by turning the key)/runs, yet I get the impression the PCM is not working, since none of the gauges, or the ASR switch are functioning. Is it possible I fried my PCM? Would the car still run if the PCM was dead? If so is there any way to fix it w/o having the dealer reset/replace it? All accessories including the alarm & lights work.Any help u can provide would be appreciated.
Thanks.
03-28-2004, 02:54 PM
#2
double check the rear taillight fuse, and the dash/gauge cluster fuse on the drivers side fuse box.
I did similar with my car when i shorted out 2 wires, when installing a custom TCS switch, and had a similar result. Turned out one of those 2 were blown, i found it with a multimeter, the fuse looked good, but was cooked just enough to blow it.
Ryan
I did similar with my car when i shorted out 2 wires, when installing a custom TCS switch, and had a similar result. Turned out one of those 2 were blown, i found it with a multimeter, the fuse looked good, but was cooked just enough to blow it.
Ryan
03-29-2004, 09:41 AM
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id say the pcm cant be blown, or your car wouldnt run. its hard for a efi car to run w/o a computer. whats going to control the injectors? fuel pump? spark? anyway, hopefully its a fuse you overlooked. id actually run your meter across each fuse and make sure theyre all good, and not just make the visual inspection. if thats the case, im not sure, try disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes, and then hook it back up, i bet that fixes it. 
03-29-2004, 01:59 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I took your advice Ryan and just replaced the Turn B/U, Tail Lps, and Gauges fuses. They had all checked out fine twice using one of those little fuse checkers that came with the fuses. I unfortunately hadn't visually inspected them b/c I trusted the fuse checker. One actually looked bad and the other 2 looked fine visually. Anyway, problem solved. Thanks.
Rob
Rob
03-29-2004, 11:30 PM
#6
I had the same problem. There is a fuse box between the dash and the door on the driver side. It is the gauges/accessory fuse. Some kind of built in safety feature that GM put in.
Zach
Zach
