L33 EFI swap stand-alone harness help (HPTuners)
04-16-2013, 05:11 PM
#1
L33 EFI swap stand-alone harness help (HPTuners) Hey guys....I posted on HPTuners forum but I didn't get any responses. Hoping someone here can help out a little....
Last year I swapped a 2006 L33 (aluminum 5.3) into my 1981 Caprice. At the time I had my plan set on straight up drag racing and opted to go with a carbureted setup. After a few months of absolutely hating the setup, I have decided to try my hand at fuel injection.
I sourced a complete intake, harness, valley cover, knock sensors and all the related hardware from a 2001 Yukon XL with a 5.3 4L60E and 4wd. I have already stripped the harness down and removed all the excess that I don't require for my conversion (such as EGR, EVAP, Rear O2, 4wd, transmission control and etc.)
Here is where I'm at...
I am looking for help with the following issues:
Fan Control
As suggested in the literature I found....I have gone ahead and added a pin to the empty location "42" of the blue PCM connector. I have also retained the pin in location "33" of the red PCM connector which I understand can be used to control a second fan?
What I would like to do, is use the Fan 1 control to turn on my electric water pump at say 125* and have the Fan 2 control turn on the engine fans at say 180* .....is this possible with my PCM, and if so...could someone please walk me through the steps of enabling the dual controls?
VSS Signal
I have eliminated all of the electronic AT control since I am running a TH350. However, it was strongly suggested to me that I run a VSS signal. Is this required for proper PCM function and control? I don't see why the PCM would need this signal if I am not using it for transmission or torque management control?
Emissions Removal
Aside from going into the MIL Code list and turning off the individual codes, is there anything else I need to remove or turn off in order to properly delete EGR, EVAP and rear O2 sensors?
Anything I am missing?
Am I on the right track here as far as covering my bases, or are there areas I will need to address before I can run the motor I have yet to mention? I think I am on the right track, but a fresh set of eyes would be wonderful. Thank you for your assistance in advance!
I am trying to fire up the car tomorrow, but if you have any little step-by-step to help simplify deleting all the garbage settings, or maybe even point me in the direction of some tunes to reference....it would be highly appreciated.
Last year I swapped a 2006 L33 (aluminum 5.3) into my 1981 Caprice. At the time I had my plan set on straight up drag racing and opted to go with a carbureted setup. After a few months of absolutely hating the setup, I have decided to try my hand at fuel injection.
I sourced a complete intake, harness, valley cover, knock sensors and all the related hardware from a 2001 Yukon XL with a 5.3 4L60E and 4wd. I have already stripped the harness down and removed all the excess that I don't require for my conversion (such as EGR, EVAP, Rear O2, 4wd, transmission control and etc.)
Here is where I'm at...
I am looking for help with the following issues:
Fan Control
As suggested in the literature I found....I have gone ahead and added a pin to the empty location "42" of the blue PCM connector. I have also retained the pin in location "33" of the red PCM connector which I understand can be used to control a second fan?
What I would like to do, is use the Fan 1 control to turn on my electric water pump at say 125* and have the Fan 2 control turn on the engine fans at say 180* .....is this possible with my PCM, and if so...could someone please walk me through the steps of enabling the dual controls?
VSS Signal
I have eliminated all of the electronic AT control since I am running a TH350. However, it was strongly suggested to me that I run a VSS signal. Is this required for proper PCM function and control? I don't see why the PCM would need this signal if I am not using it for transmission or torque management control?
Emissions Removal
Aside from going into the MIL Code list and turning off the individual codes, is there anything else I need to remove or turn off in order to properly delete EGR, EVAP and rear O2 sensors?
Anything I am missing?
Am I on the right track here as far as covering my bases, or are there areas I will need to address before I can run the motor I have yet to mention? I think I am on the right track, but a fresh set of eyes would be wonderful. Thank you for your assistance in advance!
I am trying to fire up the car tomorrow, but if you have any little step-by-step to help simplify deleting all the garbage settings, or maybe even point me in the direction of some tunes to reference....it would be highly appreciated.
04-18-2013, 05:06 AM
#2
If the pcm came from a car/truck that didn't have electric fans from the factory, you may have to get a tuner to swap the operating system to one that will control the fans. That would be the onlt problem there. You need a VSS to keep the engine from trying to die when you come to stop. All the pcm needs is to see a signal so it knows the car is still moving, or actually stopped.
