vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

So my truck started breaking up above 4500rpm with the latest tune I recieved. Shortly there after I saw the P0336 (crank relearn) code, so I cleared it. It came back again! I've had this code in the past, and when I cleared it, it went away and never came back. I figured it was the tune, but it all seems to check out. Fuel delivery, ignition, LTrims, STrims, AFR, timing etc.

I tried doing a CASE relearn on it with my friend's HPTuners, and no dice. Everytime we would slowly rev the engine up during the relearn process it would say "RPM to high." It did this at exactly 8% throttle everytime! WTF?!?

Well driving around lately its been getting worse and it even breaks up at part throttle and cruise. It'll shut off in traffic, and then its a pain to get started again. It'll crank and crank and crank. Finally it'll fire just about when my *** gets rear-ended.

Well last night it threw the P0335 code. This is new....CKP circuit malfunction. Well I went to the handy Chilton's manual and did everything they said.

While checking the voltage to the green wire with the ignition on, I see 11.31V. Chilton says about 12V. Good to go.

It then says to back probe the blue or white wire and crank the engine. It says you should see about 5V. I see 0.00V. WTF?!?

I then took it upon myself to pull the sensor and see if there was any resistance across the terminals and I got nothing.

Is my sensor toast or what? Any help would be much appreciated.

SUPRYZE

Definitely sounds like it could be a bad sensor. I was getting these codes in mine, but mine was a wiring issue. If the wiring shows to be good and the reluctor wheel on the crank is not damaged, that I would try the sensor.

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

The wiring seems to be in good shape, and it's still in the original heat wrap. As for the reluctor wheel, there's no way it can be damaged. This is the original crank in the original engine.

I'm just interested in why there's no resistance accross the sensor terminals.

Also where's the best place to get one? I can see that Autozone has them cheap, but I've never heard of the brand they carry.

SUPRYZE

Probably not likely to have a problem, but it can happen.

As far as the sensor, its not a Magnetic Pulse Generator like wheel speed sensors, its a Hall Effect Sensor, which is solid state which is why you probably won't find resistance specs for it. All you can really check for is voltage going in, ground, and signal coming out.

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE: I tried the whole back probing thing agian and the results were very interesting to say the least.

I back probed the blue wire, taped the + voltmeter lead to it, then taped the - lead to a ground. I started up the engine, and it cranked right up, and started to idle. I crawl under to see what the voltmeter was reading, and it still said 0.00V.

So for ***** and giggles I reved it up and it went straight to the rev limiter. No sputtering, breaking up nothing. It was just fast and smooth!

Does this mean my sensor is bad or the wiring?

robertbartsch

OK what was the resolution to this issue. Did you need a case relearn? which software did you use for this?